iain

all I know is pimp'n ain't easy

Whats that supposed to mean catshit...Oh...I forgot...your an alpine hardman...... post of the day

The gullies were silent and looked like a cakewalk if you could get across the schrund. It would be easy to dink around on the left and traverse in, but again, you're missing those low ice pitches, as it puts you in the trudge festival above them.

yeah we camped out there waiting for a group to clear the way for some sweet rime skiing.

it could have been some punks coming up the north side trundling icicles down on you hahaha

could you also provide wind speed/direction in 1/2 hourly increments, or at least for each station at which you calculated snowpack density? thank you. p.s. please provide temperatures in degrees Kelvin.

Climb: Tour de Hood-Sunshine, eventually Date of Climb: 3/13/2004 Trip Report: The enigmatic Hal Burton and I started from Timberline a little after midnight. We skied around the east side. The crossing of WR Canyon right now is quite easy up high. We skied across Newton-Clark Glacier and down Cooper Spur a bit. We took a nap there, since it was still before 0400 and it was really dark down on the Eliot Glacier. Didn't really want to launch down there w/ the headlamp. We did a long traverse over to the north face gully entrances, our first intended destination. While the gullies look to be give-aways right now, the start is not. Surprisingly, the bergschrund is impassable w/o some motivated acrobatics, perhaps on the right side. Here's the best spot to cross right now, taken from west of the bergschrund: You could cross high from Cooper Spur, but then you are missing one of the best parts of the route. I was surprised to see that what was easy to cross back in Nov. is now a yawning monster. So we were relegated to climbing Sunshine, perhaps a little happy to not climb the gullies with our skis, but disappointed we could not take the expressway to the summit directly. Here is the Eliot Headwall, and Hal Burton at an undisclosed location on the north side: The climbing was rather tedious, but conditions are quite good over there. We were all alone for the entire trip, until we exited at the queen's chair to Wally World. I've never seen that many people coming out of Leuthold's. Hey, and ZERO tracks on the upper headwall of Yocum, what's up? We proceeded up the summit ridge to our turnoff to the Mazama Chute: We sat there for quite awhile getting rained on by debris from the Leuthold juggarnaut, waiting for the bowling pins below to plod there way up so we didn't shell them with the rime skiing we were about to commence. Note human pack train on the hogsback. I did not realize RMI had a permit. Skiing conditions were truly abysmal. The top of the chute (what am I talking about, the whole thing) was quite icy and had a spicy 3-D texture to it. Much sideslipping ensued. Back at the car maybe a bit before 1300, with a few hours of dinking around on the north side.

Did you walk in the door and immediately start typing? It's only 3:00pm. PS I hope there is some mention of skiing when/if you finish your report. hmm or perhaps you stopped short of describing the descent to avoid the disgrace of being called out on a slogdown. Edit: SLOGDOWN aaaahahaha Just kidding. Did your friend seriously go unconscious from icefall? Ouch.

i luv the internet

hwy 26 in oregon is murderer's row for speed traps

Still workin' it. bumpity bump!

the u.s. military did some tests with this. I will see if I can get the report. I believe it worked for them if I remember (they put their hands and feet in warm water in cold conds)

seems like there needs to be an X add-on, since there are some not-so-steep runs that would be really bad to fall on, such as gentle glacier terrain that runs out to an icefall or crevasse-riddled areas.

I've heard of folks going so far as taping bricks to magazine "postcards" they receive. I have trouble believing the post office delivers them, but maybe they do.

It was ages ago but it is in ANAM. Don't remember. But obviously don't go in there after a bunch of new snow has fallen or when it's hot (or following a sharp warming trend after a bunch of precip). I have seen massive slush avalanche debris at the base of the gulley several times. Warm winds up high will also knock down very large chunks of rime (and often newly-exposed rock) on you all day.

There have been fatalities and very-near-fatalities associated with falling out of Leuthold Couloir, like almost any popular route at this angle. There was also a multiple-fatality avalanche in the couloir years ago.

Thanks Marc, no problem. It's easy for me to sit on the sidelines and say stuff after the fact. It seems to happen a lot on this site after accidents, unfortunately. Hope you are doing well.

why are you stopping the debate? This has the makings for classic cc.com uninformed debate material. A multi-page manifesto about how long you would survive in a theoretical 6ft^3 cube

Just making it clear that the pathogen vs saving life comment I made in the other thread is simply to illustrate how rarely CPR works, rather than to say how frequently you will catch a disease. I would not hesitate to initiate CPR if it was warranted, but I would do some thinking if a mask and gloves are not available. Also, I think it is inappropriate for people to be describing the injuries this fellow received in unnecessary (and perhaps even unauthorized) detail.

Are you saying you shouldn't bother with gloves and a mask? I'm not sure what you are trying to say, other than insulting me. That's great. Did he fall off a cliff with massive trauma as well? My above quote is simply what my medical advisor has advised me, that in ideal conditions in his ER, CPR has a terrible track record of bringing people back. The odds are more likely you will contract a pathogen than you will do any good, the exceptions being lightning or drowning victims. Do what you want, but I'd rather not be called naive since I have put some time and thought into this. And I would perform CPR if I felt it might help, but there is such a thing as obvious fatal injury.

Pretty sure any female lurkers on this site that were thinking of posting are long gone now.