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Crackbolter

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Everything posted by Crackbolter

  1. FF might be interested. forward this t him: jeff@featheredfriends.com If not, maybe Greg can help from the other shop that does slideshows can take him.
  2. Skippin OR for Maui this year. Have fun!
  3. Eastslope Cascades. I won't say where because I am selfish about my powder stashes. My partner was going to fast to get ahead of him to take photos. My camera was too fogged anyways.
  4. last week
  5. The threads are not a concern, it is when the nut is being tightened to the expansion sleeve. It is mainly a concern of overtightening the nut.
  6. I disagree that buttonheads are worthless. If you climb a route and need to pass a bolt that I have placed or clip it for a belay, I think you would trust that it will hold a fall. The interior width of a 5/16" rawl is only 1/4" I believe. I'd rather not take a shear fall on a 1/4" shaft that could have been stressed while twisting a nut around it to tighten it. I have seen the nut shear the shaft without much effort at all in a controlled situation. (meaning at home in a vise rather than in the mtns) If a 5/16" buttonhead is placed wrong and the head bends before it mushrooms over the hanger, they are less reliable than if it is hammered straight in. I think skill is what makes them bomber, not the nature of the material. I will continue to use 5/16" buttonheads until they are not available. They are in fact, bomber and I trust every one that I have placed. I also apologize in advance if it sounds like I am chestbeating. I am only stating my opinion based on my own personal experiences. I don't think that everyone should follow my lead when it comes to equipment selection since it is simply a matter of style and opinion.
  7. Kit bag would contain: Metolious hangers 5/16" buttonheads spare Hilte bit spare allen key hook for resting while drilling on lead hand drill Hilte drill bit Question: A Chounard alpine hammer with an ash handle and alpine pick or Estwing rock tool seems to be the best setup for bolting efficiently on lead. What do other folks use who are experienced in this type of craft? I am looking for something lighter but just as sturdy for easy swinging. Second tools are good for pitons but lack the beef for drilling quickly. Just curious.
  8. So far the predictions sound right on. I don;t know about climbers from out of state.
  9. Tele bobcat with a saw. They weight quite a bit but are worth it when your really need to dig.
  10. Merry Christmas Dryad!!!
  11. I do like the summit shot of the climbers in the Baker lodge. Alpestocks and Axes are all you need!
  12. You know BP, I still like Stevens better. I think it is the nostalgia of my first days at a resort. The last time I went out to a resort was Stevens two weekends ago. I hiked past the shack and took a frontside run and blissed in waist deep powder. I got picked up by the man who built the shack and he brought me back to the resort. I didn't walk but accross the highway after a run better than any of last year. No tracks were in sight anywhere (except my own). Maybe it is because the rivers are close, Leavenworth is just a skip and a jump and Index is a stones throw. I know Santa and his wife and son and grandson. It is like family. Oh yeah and Rusty is a kick ass girl! I remember when she was a rental girl. Now I see her with a patrol jacket on. That rocks.
  13. Funny, I would have said the same thing to her. He is right so obvously he does know something. Back off homes.
  14. Colin on the left
  15. Here is the real toothless lonesome sound. Bela is cool but Ralph is a real hillbilly.
  16. Those are well over $100. Not a very good price when for a lower cost, you can just buy disposables. Thanks for showing that though. I want one now.
  17. Brunton has a thin solar powered sheet that is sweet and exactly what you are looking for but it is like $400. The other Brunton is probably your best bet. When staying at a hostel, you can put it under a lamp overnight and your batteries will be good to go in the morning. This eliminates carrying the international plug adaptor.
  18. Here is an inexpensive model. Keep looking around though because for about $10 or $15 more, you can get a slightly more durable model. This one looks a little fragile but it does do 4 AA's in 12 hours of daylight.
  19. Glad to hear the good news. Debauchery is in order
  20. At Jack's slideshow last year
  21. Or snowmobiles.
  22. ...
  23. Those thick Lowe pins are awesome!!!
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