Crackbolter

Okay-Ive been humbled..Calling a guy a woman is fine but calling a girl a guy for some reason seems like a much bigger insult. Sorry, Ill shut up now.

S.K., You ain't nice. I agree with more beer less gear but I don't agree with a little man spouting big words. This site was not intended for your ego and harshness. That is all I have to say.

Umm....When I was climbing G.N.S. at Index one time, there was a guy climbing the top-out pitch on Narrow Arrow and had a necklace on. He decided since his head was the perfect size...Well, needless to say, look for the stains next time you are on the offwidth part.

quote: Originally posted by richard noggin: Damn dude 6 of those are me! You talkin to me! I said you talkin to me!! Me and you battle cage mofo I'll whip the spraymaster kung Fu...ie on your sorry ass!! Just kiddin I don't think that list was neer long enough and we all know you are the Mega fly of all gapers. Mega Fly...huge fly that eats shit and bugs people. Yeah, Im talkin to you! You wanta maka somethin of it? (As my fists close tightly and repeatedly pound on my inflated chest) You are damn right I'm the mega fly! I can't even get a picture on this post! So while you gapers go and act like climbers this weekend, I will be redpointing the Sasquatch Stage trying to get closer to String Cheese Incodent! My eyes will be bloodshot and my climbing hands will be sore from the parking lot jammin that I will be playing! FUall!

Your c.c. login name is: Trillium, iain,glen ,Crackhead ,Stefan ,Son of Caveman ,Dru ,Alex ,mikeadam ,Cpt.Caveman ,Gaper_#2 ,mvs ,b-rock ,gapertimmy ,ruddersbox ,Alex , jon, erik ,sk ,Bronco, tomtom ,Attitude ,richard noggin ,Figger Eight ,Billy ,tasmith513 ,Charlie, chucK, Lambone ,Szyjakowski,UncleTricky , joekania ,CAMAZONIA ,trask ,slothrop, crackbolter or if you post on more than one climber's message board.

Do you guys really think Mark cares of what people think of him? If you don't personally know him then you are speculating on his personality and behavior...Typical. As far a Lynn, just look for her in Fremont and Ballard. I've run into her at various local pitstops. She is such a talker...I thought I was bad!

I was climbing Snake Dike and we forgot a headlamp and ended coming down about 20 minutes after it was completely dark. We missed the bridge and just decided to make a fire and wait it out until the next morning. When we walked out we noticed YO.S.A.R. was everywhere. We also notices yellow tape wrapped around the area. Come to find out, Glacier Point had a rockfall that was fatal. It destroyed a bunch of tents and caused some pretty bad ruckus. We didn't even hear it. Talk about EPIC! The next day we just decided to be dayhikers and catch up on sleep. After that it was gripped climbing on D.N.B. which every pitch felt like 5.10+. I guess I was a little rattled from the day before but made it without any falls. By the way guys, good luck getting a camping spot. What a crowder mess! I would much rather park and head straight for the wall and bivy away from the valley. I just hate the CHAOS.

You guys have a consensus, you are all better climbers than everyone else. You need not to worry because no many people can even hike that far to go rock climbing. Just keep arguing while I keep finding more routes to dust off and ascend. Take the Pearly and the SCW and Midnight and Castle and Givlers and JY and Trundle and let them be stomped and trundled. Put fourth the effort to maintain the trails and replace the rusted buttonheads. Wear a helmut and educate them. Let people hike in and clip and plug gear as they please. You guys need to just keep hiking a little further out and maybe bivy and you won't even see gapers. All you will see is the potential for more routes and eventually, those will be sent and our lovely message board will be chatting about them in due time. Nothing is going to stop the progress. Especially if REI and The North Face keeps giving money to the Access Fund and the Access Fund keeps giving access. REI gets more sales because people get more access. Who wins? The industry, one dollar...one vote. One person one vote. Rather than whining about each other, start planning to change the DNR, FS and National Park bylaws to help protect the woods. ...And quit being so damn selfish!

quote: Originally posted by pope: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: So here is a question Mr. "bolts are bad for the environment," What kinda trail is this your talkin about? Is it established? Switchbacks? Or is it just another climber's scar leading from point A to point B in the shortest time possible? Just curious, thanks in advance for the clarification. Firstly, thanks but no thanks for attibuting that quote to me. What I said is, bolts are ugly and alien to the mountain environment, and while their use is acceptable under special circumstances, the proliferation of bolts in the last two decades is evidence that climbing, as defined by modern practices, is just another pussy sport. Sorry, Allison. About the trail: yes it's fast, and it follows a game migration route which, if you didn't know, seems to stay on the contour, and so erosion is minimal. I would say the old climbers root crawl, from where it leaves Snow Creek trail, is about as rutted out as I've seen in the Cascades. Who the hell is this guy? What the fuck is he talking about? Bolts are alien to the mountain environment? Allison is a pussy? Did anyone tell this guy that it probably took at least one ton of dynamite to blow up the canyon so that the icycle road could be built? How about the dams on the Wenatchee? Who gives a shit about a couple of hundred holes in the rock WHEN WE COMPARE IT TO WHAT INDUSTRIALISM HAS DONE TO THIS PLANET! Get Real.

I can't believe you guys want to be like anyone! Don't you think that what you have accomplished is worthy? If not then get your shit in gear and go climb something hard. After all, our generation has the ability to take what was learned by every generation before us and bring climbing to the next level. All you gotta do is on-sight free solo the North Norweigan Buttress of Mount Index! Then you will be a hero! Okay, so maybe that is a bit too tough, maybe just find new lines in the Enchantment Plateau. Paul Boving dodn't climb all the hard ones

Royal Robbins acted too Royal for my blood. I would like to be me inspired by individuals of the last generation. I liked Peter Croft, Greg Child, Gordy-Dave-Viktor-Jim Clan, Beckey, Kit Lewis, Jim Nelson, the guy who wears a Santa outfit at Steven's during Christmas(I forget his name). I just like the Cascade Duffs. My great Uncle was supposedly Charles Hessey, I don't know what that means but it sure sounds fun. I'd like to be able to drop my knee like the old timer, leather boot wearing folks.

This is from : http://www.climbingwashington.com/routeinfo/ By Jeff Smoot "Viktor Kramar and Dave Bale have developed a new crag in the Icicle Creek Canyon. Dubbed "Pearly Gates," this crag features mostly crack routes in the 5.6-5.11+ range, many around 5.9, with good anchors. At Viktor's invitation, several other climbers have visited, cleaning up the crag and adding additional routes. The rock is white granite reminiscent of Donner Summit, said to be some of the best rock in the Icicle. To get there, hike up Snow Creek Trail to the first switchback, where a faint climbers' trail leads across the creek and follows cairns up the hill to the crag; about 30 minutes to approach. For information about particular routes, click here." (08/08/01) Plenty of info to associate yourself with the area.

Quoted from climbing magazine #213 June 2002 "Sporting Life(message board)" by Matt Samet "Yet, there is a downside: it's now possible to slander the hell out of each other without ever meeting face to face. This is especially true of message boards, ostensibly repositories of useful Beta, like where to go bouldering on a snowy day or directions to the hot new crag. Sadly, these message boards have evolved in to a receptacle for quips, jibes, insults, spray and flat out attacks, posted by net geeks hiding behind the cloak of anonymity or a trumped up alias." Sad, sad, sad but true.

sk--- I don't know you but, never say never.

I like the keynote of SIMPLICITY. Here is another... To put yourself into a situation where a mistake cannot necessarily be recouped, where the life you lose may be your own, clears the head wonderfully. It puts domestic problems back into proportion and adds an element of seriousness to your drab, routine life. Perhaps this is one reason why climbing has become increasingly hard as society has become increasingly, disproportionately, coddling. -A. Alvarez

It does not matter how slow you go, as long as you don't stop. - Confucius

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: quote:BUT I HAVE ONE QUESTION? HOW DOES ONE NOT PHOTOGRAPH WELL?? DOES THE CAMERA BREAK?? I HAVE HEARD THIS BEFORE, BUT NEVER INQUIRED TO WHAT IT ACTUALLY MEANT. geez; i hope i'm not *that* ugly!!! it basically means that the subject either looks better or markedly different in person. (my cat has the same problem - he looks like hell in pictures, but up close and personal he's just a big ball of fur.) personally, i just don't like pictures. of myself, i mean. except for the one in my passport. [/QB] She must be brilliant. Although, I do have rules about women with cats. They never seem to leave the house. Perhaps she climbs hard and can school us all? Man that would be cool. I only know a few but they are all cool cats.

The rules of the game must be constantly updated to keep up with the expanding technology. Otherwise we overkill the classic climbs and delude ourselves into thinking we are better climbers than the pioneers. Yvon Chouinard

quote: Originally posted by Cobra: You can clearly see April Fools Towee behind it. Your argument is dumb. Everyone should climb there it is safe you just dont want the "Masses there". My argument is very dumb, you are right. Which direction it is facing is very irrelevant. Your arguement was equally as dumb, neither of us will win this one but I must say, you are my favorite poster. These battles are entertaining and fulfilling. Our origional debate is completely, and utterly irrelevant because there was no opinion, just bickering and thrashing. If you think I should be kicked off this board then so be it. Kick me off. I have no qualms over that. I will find other ways to entertain me when times are slow at work. I have a guitar and a mandolin, MP3's galore and people to talk climbing ethics with until I am blue in the face. I am sorry if everyone is sick of this conversation so I will find another topic now. Live long and procreate!

Which direction is SCW facing? Which direction is PG facing?

I shouldn't open my mouth abou this but, this is what I saw: "Hike across the bridge towards snow creek wall. Cross drainage. At first switchback cut right and across Snow Creek. Lots of downed trees. Gain faint trail heading up and left. Follow cairns to the white looking rock on the back side of snow creek wall.." It ain't the first switchback and it ain't behind the Snow Creek wall. Also, it ain't safe up there right now, we almost got bombarded by trees from a windstorm. We had big, massive trees falling down everywhere and we still climbed there. Fortunately we were protected from the trees while climbing but I thought I was gonna die! I don't want any one else thinkin that they are gonna die either. Shouldn't we try to preserve these crags until things are fixed up more? Is this website helping things or hurting things? Here is the big question, was I helping or hurting things? Be honest, I don't try to instigate these kind of things unless I have selfish enough reasons.

NO CHOPPING MY STEMS! I HATE SMOKING ON LEAD! i ALSO HATE USING NATURAL GEAR LIKE LEAVES AND PAPER! Oh I thought of another thing I like to carry, I made a 3 ounce pillow out of 800 fill down and .8 ounce nylon for my wussy head. It is nice to hug a pillow out climbing. It beats hugging my smelly partner! (Unless she is hot, then it is a required spooning event)

Take a half lliter MSR Fuel bottle, drill a 3/8" hole at a 45 degree angle. Go to your local head shop, buy the glass stem and sleeve kit. Also, get the rubber gasket to fit the 3/8" hole. Insert sleeve. Insert stem. Fill with snow/ ice/ water. Insert tobacco(whacky variety). Obtain flamage and bubble, bubble, bubble. Cough, cough, cough, cough, cough, cough. Buzzzzzzzzz. It makes the trip enjoyable. (Not like I do that or anything.) I also carry the tibetan variety prayer flags for aesthetics and support.

I am very pleased with the results of this discussion... This is what I gather: It seems that there are two groups of people that we are dealing with. The one side likes the use of bolts for safety and convenience and is not overly concerned with how many bolts are placed as long as the bolter knows what he/she is doing. Luckily for us, most F/A folks know what they are doing. They recieve much scrutiny when they are starting their career as a F/A. They also don't seem to care too much when someone who is not a F/A gives them scrutiny because typicially they want someone experienced to give them criticism. The other side are like republicans, they just want everyone to stick their nose into it and to chop bolts for their own likings, not because there is a consensus on how the route was drilled. These people want the F/A's to be regulated on how they put up a route by people who have never drilled into rock or who have no idea what is involve in putting up a route. They don't consider the countless hours it took them to mark the route and scrub the line and the thought that is involved in putting in a bolt where the crack will not hold gear very well but might take a piton (which is just a detrimental as a bolt). So my opinion is to remove all the hardware and make everyone climb what is naturally protectable like Fred Becky pioneered. I would be happy with that because it would divide the line between the bold, the not so bold and the crazy. Unfortunately, what I want will never happen so I have to put up with jackasses chopping bolts and making the situation worse. Maybe we should have stronger regulation in our wilderness areas (just keep the gas and electricity for our stoves and headlamps). What about designated non wilderness areas? Is it still okay to drill the shit out of everything and then have choppers chop the unnecessary bolts? So Asshole Gaper has a point, there are prople who bolt too much (L.W.) but not very many. And hopefully the folks that frollick in the wilderness areas will keep an eye out for those folks and give them the boot when we see them screwing things up. Most of the new bolters are drilling bolts for the safety other people, not as much for themselves. Look back when the first drillers were drilling. Was there any rhyme or reason? My guess is that there is more now than there ever was. Just more folks climbing and more folks drilling. Enough talk, I am finished with this subject. Thanks for the responses and opinions. Keep on exploring!

By your name given Gaper, at the least, you admit to opening you big mouth plentiful. I will digress again and wait until we meet. As for the rest of our fellow climbers, please further this discussion. I will value your opinion, I promise.