Layback

Hey - Thanks for the heads up guys. I certainly don't take it personally. That was my first time there - you guys definitely know the area better than me. Dang, after a 5 year hiatus from WI, I guess I am a bit rusty. That felt WI 4 to me. I need to get at it more...

Trip: Lillooet, BC - Rambles Right Date: 2/14/2009 Trip Report: Priscilla, Paul Helen and I spent the weekend up in Lillooet. It's been nearly 5 years since I've been on waterfall ice. The last time was when I was still living in New England, where I had the opportunity to get out nearly every weekend in winter. This was a great treat for me. Saturday afternoon, we headed over to Rambles. We took a quick look at Rambles and Rambles Center and decided that we didn't like it - the ice on Rambles wasn't fat enough to take full screws and Rambles Center had missing sections. So we headed over to Rambles Right just a few hundred yards away. When we got there we saw Richard C. and his wife (Susan?) from Everett finishing off the first pitch. Above them was Scott W and his partner, both from EMRU. I led the first pitch (WI 4) and set up a top rope for the others: Helen Got Her First Experince on Water Ice: After that, Paul took a spin, but unfortunately ended up aggravating a partially torn bicep: With Paul hurting, Priscilla took a run and broke down the TR. On Sunday we looked around for other things to do but everything WI 4 and under seemed either occupied or not fat enough for my tastes. With that in mind, I opted to head home at noon to get a jump on the 5 hour solo ride home. Priscilla and the others spent the rest of the day scouting out routes for next time. Her notes are at the bottom of this TR... If anyone is considering going up there, there are a number of WI 5 routes (way out of my leading ability) in great condition including Carl's Berg: Priscilla's Notes: Loose Lady is in, and the first step (considered an approach) was nice and plastic, but wet. It makes a good place to practice, a frozen creek slab about 20 ft. high, something like WI2. Good place to start, and then move up higher for swinging leads up to WI3-4. The Rambles is partially in. Rambles central is discontinuous and mixed; Rambles left looks good, and Rambles right is good. The bash up there through the woods pretty much establishes that if you use it, it will be for a whole day. What we found there was WI3+ to 4. Isodorth is in, but the river crossing is not frozen, and the approach in the book was disparaged by local climbers as a trip in itself. We didn't go there. Carlsberg is way too much for people who aren't somewhere in the WI 5 level, but it is nice n fat. We didn't see anyone using it. Icy BC is in, but not as fat as I have seen it before, and therefore steeper on the first pitch. It looks to be WI4. Upper pitches are even more. There are a series curtains and seeps to the left that are in, although the curtains don't all connect. They are about WI4. To the left of that, I was told there is a walk up/down, in the range of WI3. We used the lower right of ICY BC for a practice area and made a nice afternoon of it. We checked in with locals and were told Cherry Ice and Honeyman aren't in. We had a good time of it though, and Joe led a pitch on The Rambles Right, which I cleaned. That section was really plating off and climbers above kicked down alot of bombs. FOOD: The Lillooet Lodge is absolutely a delightful surprise. Japanese cuisine, including sushi, and very good. The Greek place has taken on airs and is charging tablecloth prices; it's still good. Goldpanner was closed. Mile-O is now owned by a Korean man and it's showing its years, but is still just fine for dirtbag clilmbers!

Nice job Marcin. Sounds like you thrashed around in the woods on the way down. We would have done the same thing had the party in front of us not given us a heads up. Oh well - at least you had a ton of daylight. Looks like you had an outstanding day!!! Shortest approach ever, no?

I'm glad you were able to make use of our steps. Truth be told, the party ahead of us kicked 'em. We just made them deeper. I finally got the TR up on my website. Since it's too late to edit the post, here's the link: http://alpinetarn.com/lanepeak.aspx

Wonderful pics. What a day to be up there. Congrats.

No pics sorry. I rode by there on Sunday in the passenger seat as my wife drove. I just happened to be looking up in the Canyon and saw a massive ice flow. I went home and research what it was and figured it was Drury. It's quite possible that the last pitch has fallen out since this was my first time looking at it without knowing what it was. Your source may be better and if I posted misinformation, my apologies.

I drove by Tumwater Canyon on Saturday. Drury Falls looks to be in if anyone cares to cross the river...

Nice work - that's impressive.

Nice work.

I just wanted to put the word out that Hilleberg's customer service is A-1. I dropped my Hilleberg Nallo 3 off at the US Headquarters in Redmond a few weeks ago (for repairs) and before I could even get back from my east coast trip, there was a message on my voicemail telling me that it was ready to be picked up/shipped. When I dropped off the tent there was damage to the guy lines (caused by me - which I couldn't see being covered by warranty) and some other damage to a strap (also caused by me) that may have been under warranty. Not only did they fix the issues but they refused to take any money. In fact, when my schedule got tight this week the owner (P. Hilleberg) personally offered to ship my tent back to me for free (which I refused because they didn't charge me a dime for the repairs). These guys are A-1, world class in terms of customer service and craftsmanship. I think few companies these days measure up. Consider them when you buy your next tent.

Trip: Lane Peak - Zipper Date: 1/24/2009 Trip Report: This weird weather we have had the last couple of weeks wreaked havoc on my climbing plans this weekend. Originally I had planned a climb of Chair Peak because the avy conditions were so extremely low. Unfortunately the inversion layer, while creating a nuclear winter at sea level, was creating beach-like temperatures higher in the mountains. This eliminated any chance for good ice on Chair. So I started looking for a climb that I'd want to do in low avy conditions but without a need for ice to make it fun. Lane Peak it would be! The approach to Lane Peak has to be both the shortest and most enjoyable I have ever done. One heads up the slope above the Narada Falls parking lot, walks down the road towards Reflection Lake and heads straight down the slope through the woods (at the sharp turn in the road) towards Lane Peak. After a quick descent through the woods we reached a stream crossing. It is best to stay skier's right of the stream crossing as you approach Lane. Eventually we came to a big open meadow where we cached our snowshoes, put on our harnesses, helmets, and crampons and started up. We reached the base of the Zipper 1.5 hrs after leaving the cars. On the route we encountered 5 pitches of 45-50 degree hard snow with a few bulges of a slightly greater angle. After topping out it took us about 45 min to get back to the snowshoe cache in the meadow and then 45 minutes back to the cars from there. As you descend the summit stay right and descend into the gentle bowl and then move left down the steeper slopes towards the meadow. When you reach the trees take the gully on the far left (skier's left). The other gully systems cliff out. The left-most gully provides a clear shot back to the meadow. Gear Notes: 4 pickets per rope team. We brought screws and nuts but did not use them. Some parties in light snow years report using nuts to get past moats. There were moats, but none that posed a problem this time.

Way to get it done. Rainier alludes me too. Maybe I need to try it in winter?

My bad Jake. Feel free to delete the post.

I listed my Nikon D50 on an auction site a few moments ago. If there's anyone looking for a good start-up DSLR this is a good option at a good price. You can use it as a high end point & shoot in automatic mode or you can use it as a fully manual DSLR. It includes the following: - Ritz Camera Extended Serive Plan through 8/09 (can be extended by you through Ritz). Covers anything as long as you can provide them with the serial number from the body. Also includes free sensor cleanings. It is transferable between owners - it follows the SN (confirmed with store). - Nikkor 18-55 mm AF Dx Lens (Used Just a Few Times - In Box) - Quantary 55-200 mm AF Dx Lens (New In Box) - 2 Circular Polarizers (fits both lenses)- 1 UV Filter (fits both lenses) - 2 extra Nikkor Li-Ion batteries (EN-EL3a) - 4 GB memory (2 SD Cards) - Carrying case - Original D50 Box - Original D50 Owner's Manual - All original cords & battery charger - Nikon Image Software Here's what DPReview has to say about the camera.

Nice work on the article and the video. I hope I have 1/2 his fire at 1/2 his age.

Sucks being misrepresented doesn't it?

The misrepresentation of the climbing program by posting pics from a Eugene Mountain Rescue FT and a Mountaineers Scrambling FT (both of which have nothing to do with the climbing program) is a really classy touch. Are you ignorant of where those photos come from or are you just looking to cause problems? I suspect you'll need more time than that. Just out of curiosity, are you the fat guy or the goofy dork with the big nips in this pic?

Cool pics - thanks for posting. That said, some of them depress the shit out of me. Look at the glacier retreat in some of those. Yikes!!!

Except for the Vasque Zephyr Tech they all look reasonable. I trekked to EBC last year via Gorak Shep and those would have done just fine. If at some point you want to get into mountaineering, you'll want to upgrade. The boots you selected would also serve you well in the Daks and the Greens, not too far from your casa. When you say the "standard way" are you going via Gokyo Ri or Gorak Shep?

NBC has just called the race for Gregoire. Do you think we'll hear Dino whine about a recount or does he only do that after encouraging the other candidate not to ask for a recount?

WTF was that speech that I just saw on KING 5 from Dick Face? Doesn't he realize that he's down 30,000 votes with just Pierce county left to report. It's over Dino. There will be no recount. Edit: Damn his wife is a fat ugly fuck.

CNN too!!!! [img:center]http://i2.cdn.turner.com/cnn/2008/POLITICS/11/04/election.president/_cnnpt1._cnnpt1.Obama.today.jpg[/img]

ROTFL Fuck yeah!

They just ran through a scenario on CNN that is unlikely, but still possible. If McCan't is perfect in the rest of the states it will come down to WA, OR, and CA. Don't be the jackass that didn't vote. There are far too many red neck republicans in eastern WA. Go make a difference.

Ladies and gentlemen the Democrats have gained control of the Senate!!!! [video:youtube]