Off_White

The Tower Route on Big Four north face. Only time I've been happy to have devils club on a route, since when that was gone all you had was ferns for handholds.

JoshK, the first miles are outside the park, but I don't recall if there are any specific signs at the TH regarding bikes. Chuck, I reckon any kind of crafty bullshit gets credit around here.

My stepson Ben and I were in there Fri-Sat, I think that was me you talked to at the edge of the glacier as we were heading out, Michael. We had a totally routine non-chestbeater two day roundtrip, and I thought the summit panorama was the best I've ever seen in the Cascades. Wasn't that ridge bivy sweet? The trio out right behind us were the N Face Central Rib team. I know people have wondered about that route here before, so I'll pass on their review. They did the Burdo variation, team of three, with both followers climbing at the same time on a reverso. The first four piches were the crux, with solid 5.10 climbing on some iffy rock. From there on they proceeded with two of them simul-climbing and the third climbing solo. It was reported to be okay, but they didn't rave about the route. They were so fast they caught up with us towards the end of the descent after our amble up the NE Ridge. On our way in across the glacier we passed another party heading out on a one day ascent. Their secret weapon was riding mountain bikes in the first couple of flat miles. I sure wished I had a bike those last miles out. Too much work in a day for me, but you speed demons around here should be able to make it. The moat and scramble to the NE ridge notch was easy, but the way things are melting suggest that this might change in the next couple weeks. We saw some great rail car sized blocks tobogganing down the slabs at the glacier fringes.

Rat: I was just up there, and while I didn't give the face a serious scope (too big a mouthful for me), the three folks who shared our bivy and went on do the N Face Central Rib gave it a good looking over. They thought there were some intriguing features, but after doing their route they seemed skeptical about the rock quality and the number of scars on the wall. One of them had been friends with Tom, so that may have factored in as well. Their names were Roger, Blair, and Tom, so if that rings any bells you might try picking their brains.

Yeah dude! Lets do some crimes, like get sushi.... AND NOT PAY.

Tenaya looks good indeed, and the report from some Brits we met suggest that it was nice but very easy, as they roped for less than half the route. Lembert has some swell climbs, Truckin' Drive 5.8 edging on gold glacier polish is sweet, and Lunar Leap 5.9, or Rawl Drive 5.9 are also good. NW Books is a popular but great 5.5 if you're looking for something easier. If you've got a ropegun who's comfortable with runouts, I'd suggest the Dike Route on Pywiak, both historic and lovely. It does command a significant bit of the leader's attention, but followers will have an easier time of it. Hobbit Book is a great 5.7, be there early early to beat the crowds. On The Lamb was stellar, but as the meat of the route is three full pitches traversing a crack, the follower has it no easier than the leader, and both parties should be solid at the 5.9 grade. Most of the route is pretty comfy, but the 40' crux section demands respect. Another great outing, best approached from the Tioga Pass road, is Crest Jewel on North Dome. The ten pitches or so of face climbing on gold granite up to 5.10a may be a little harder than you're looking for, but again, if you can round up a ropegun it would be fine outing with views down into the molten granite ditch below. Out of the bazillions of routes I haven't done there, I think Matthes Crest tops the list of things I'd most like to do, though getting towed up OZ would be in the running. Have a great trip, use the bear boxes, and enjoy the underfunded third world splendor that is Yosemite National Park.

We already have Trask, so I'm sorry, but the position has been filled.

I think the best trick is a faulty memory, whereby past suffering seems not so bad in retrospect, leading to a willingness to wind up in that situation again.

No, c'mon Trask, don't hold back, say what you really think.

Well, its not a month off, but I'm headed to Tuoloumne for the next week, yippee. If any of ya'll wind up down there, I'll be in the two tone brown Vanagon that looks like it's been snacking on deer, staying in the group camp, so come say hi. Yeah, I'm outta here.

Last Plane to Jakarta

Because you made a point to bring it to the top, and I thought, "yeah, this is really stupid and not even entertaining", so click click click and its gone. Talking about it being gone is ever so much more entertaining than the original pissy post ever was. You should thank me.

BONUS!

Something the Bush Administration is not doing: The Army Times (which is exactly the periodical it sounds like) recently carried this editorial harshly condemning Bush and the GOP: Nothing but lip service In recent months, President Bush and the Republican-controlled Congress have missed no opportunity to heap richly deserved praise on the military. But talk is cheap — and getting cheaper by the day, judging from the nickel-and-dime treatment the troops are getting lately. For example, the White House griped that various pay-and-benefits incentives added to the 2004 defense budget by Congress are wasteful and unnecessary — including a modest proposal to double the $6,000 gratuity paid to families of troops who die on active duty. This comes at a time when Americans continue to die in Iraq at a rate of about one a day. Similarly, the administration announced that on Oct. 1 it wants to roll back recent modest increases in monthly imminent-danger pay (from $225 to $150) and family-separation allowance (from $250 to $100) for troops getting shot at in combat zones.

Post 'em in the gallery when you can, I'm sure I'm not the only one who would love to see. It's funny, I was guide gazing this winter and idly contemplating a similar outing in that drainage.

Take Alex's suggestion about Tahquitz seriously. True birthplace of the Yosemite Decimal System too, courtesy of Chuck Wilts. Wonderful granite, cracks & faces, multi-pitch, and sun or shade depending on the daily microclimate. Suicide right across the valley is awesome too. It will indeed be cooler than the big ditch, which will be hot and sticky for sure. Yeah yeah, you haven't climbed in Yosemite, so I understand you gotta check it out, but keep plan b in your back pocket. As another westside of the Sierra possiblity, consider Courtright Reservoir. Up high, nice and cool, like Tuoloumne but with free camping and without the climbers and tourists. Sequoia National Park also has some good stuff. There is a good guidebook available to boot. Really, 4000 feet is just too low in July in California. Here, a picture of Power Dome at Courtright. 5 to 7 pitches high, approach in rock shoes, walk down to the car. Just one of many domes there. Have fun.

Ahh yes, the road closure. Seems I heard a rumor (perhaps nothing more than that) around here that the road repair is being shelved this year for lack of funding? Worth a call to the district I'd think. I'm sure you could get down the NW Buttress, you've been around the block, but here's a couple other ideas: Have you done the West Ridge before? I haven't, and from what I've read, it may be a little problematic if you haven't, but might it do as a descent route, with a bivy at Stuart Pass instead of Goat? Just carry over. Thats what we did last time I was on the route, and adding a light bag & bivy sack didn't add that much weight. Skip the stove and all that jive, just do the old & cheese on a bagel.

Josh, late season we encountered an inch of slush over rock hard snow, and lacking crampons we rapped. We found good anchors all the way down, but there weren't piles of slings, just one set from a prior party (they all had the same initials on them). Some of those anchors were set on terrible stuff, we just moved the same slings a few feet to find excellent natural anchors (sometimes excavated with nut tool), and left no gear. Double 50 meter rope rappels though, bring twin ropes or a 7 mil tag line with the fat cord.

Matt's probably got a good idea. I researched the NW Butt descent awhile back, seems like it got largely negative reviews, including a report from someone who almost died in a bunch of loose rock. Didn't sound straight forward, which is sort of what you want towards the end of the day. I descended Sherpa in late September one year, without crampons we had to rap the gully, but it was still pretty easy. Mtneer Creek approach is nothing to worry about either.

Oh what to do, move this to spray or the hot chat channel. Decisions, decisions...

yes

Erik's back for a day or two and she's got his style nailed, spelling and all!

A few other parties, not what you would call crowded.