Off_White

Looks like voter fraud to me. There's lots of computer folks on this board, does computerized touch screen voting fill you with confidence?

I've got one of those, but I only use it for work these days, or as a loaner. That looks like a great area, thanks for the info.

I think DFA's pretty spot on about Smith. In a way, it reminds me of the work that has been done in Squamish and at the Owens River Gorge, the kind of organization that will allow for the heavy use and at the same time limit the impact on the surrounding area. People weren't all that tidy in the "good old days," there were just fewer of them. Wads of tape and cigarette butts were not uncommon, and I wouldn't say most folks were all that obssessed with low impact visitation. The move towards nuts from pitons succeeded not so much out of concern for the environment, but because it was easier and safer.

I saw the Mountain Goats on Tuesday night, and John assured me they would not be there even if they got (promised to be)paid. Mountain Goats tour info

You're only talking about three people there in that list of names...

Well, that shot does put you in the running for the poster child contest in the new "Friends Don't Let Drunk Friends Sleep On Their Backs" public safety campaign! It was a great weekend indeed. I think we have a new standard by which to measure plabness.

Well, I just think the sidebar belongs on the right side...

Nope, Erik's right, the other you actually seems like a pretty good guy.

I wouldn't lay soft squamish grading on McLane's doorstep. Most of those climbs E-rock mentioned are much older than his guide, and I don't think he raised their ratings. Squamish, the Smoke Bluffs in particular, has always had a bit of a rep for soft grading on free climbs (at least since I first climbed there in the mid 80's), particularly in the 5.8 to middle 5.10's. I think it is reasonably consistent, and much of the climbing is flat out wonderful, so I was never troubled by a little feel-good gimme on the numbers. If he wanted to correct it, I think McLane would have to do some wholesale downrating of routes, most of which are not of his creation, and it would be at least as controversial as the present situation.

Everyone should wear a nametag..... .... that says "Trask"

I thought the prairie burning near Ft Lewis was actually agriculture, to ensure habitat for Camas, whose edible bulb was a dietary mainstay.

Exploring by boat is really fun there, and some of the cleanest looking stuff is best accessed that way. A number of years ago we did a nice 5.10ish crack on an island facing the road (but not visible from it) that started with an undercling (it had been done before, scarfed a #3 friend and there was an anchor on top) and put up a nice 5.11a face and crack route to the left of it. We also did a couple routes on the formation on the left as you head up the Northup Canyon road. You can pull in a little road that gives access to the spot in between the two big formations. Interesting potential on the big south facing wall of the northerly crag, but the things we did were on the north facing wall of the southerly crag, that kind of dirty dangle from the jam and clean the moss and dirt climbing that Erik had so much fun on in the Icicle. The boat stuff was much nicer. In poking around we did find some existing routes on a face that starts right out of the water, on a formation that is almost connected to the land nw of the roadcut rock (you might be able to walk to it in low water conditions). I recognized it from an old sidebar published in Climbing years ago, by David Whitelaw I think (try pm'ing him). Looked like clean 5.8 to 5.10 slabby routes with old 1/4" bolts. Also, driving towards Electric City from Steamboat rock, look off to your left and you'll see a big tombstone formation. We checked it out and it promised some nice climbing. Two old bolts on top suggested possible toprope history, but the face needed some scrubbing and had no protection. Might be different now, that was years ago. The fuzziness and incomplete character of the guide inhibits super productive climbing, but the potential for exploratory adventure is superb.

I dunno if it's still there, but Sisu posted it, and I'm sure he could supply you with a copy for your archives. It was a remarkably gruesome photo.

Actually, I believe it is "no suck"

A Swede living in Ballard.

You're re-writing recent history Beck. What you actually posted was some muddled bit, no quote whatsoever, about a movie you saw where Robbins started chopping bolts on some Harding route and then stopped. No quote, no examination of motivation or rationale, not even any specific information that would identify things for people without the background in climbing history. You then avowed you would not share your opinion. The whole point of your post was to declare that you went to the movies with Hollyclimber, and in the Rock Climbing Forum that constitutes spray. I'm glad the deletion of your post has actually pushed you to make a point, because your first post completely lacked one, and as an editor I'm sure you would have rejected it as well.

not to mention it's gorgeous outside RIGHT NOW

Its not the quotes Beck, it's that the content is stupid and irrelevant, at least with regards to your muddled reference (no actual quote involved) about Robbins chopping some bolts and then deciding to stop. What the 33 year old Wall of Early Morning Light partial route erasure has to do with the question of bolt protected free climable cracks in Washington escapes me. Still, its nice to know the editing bugs you.

I know you'll be thanking me for not posting pictures of installing a spiral staircase. Thanks to all who did something worth taking a picture of and sharing it with the rest of us.

Sometime in the latter part of the seventies, riding on the free bus in Yosemite, my friend Mike let loose with the silent kind of raunchy fart that only extended bad living will give you. As the aroma spread amongst the tourist throng on the crowded bus, he smacked my buddy sitting next to him in the arm and loudly declared, "Galen, how could you?" It was priceless to behold, from a few rows away mind you.

I wonder about who is going to pick up the torch Beckey is still carrying. The latest green guide had two errors that I caught in a cursory bookstore scan. One was a trivial route on Fortress that I submitted via email (so it's not the fault of my sloppy penmanship) that is mangled enough as to be impossible to follow, and the other on Thunder Peak (as noted by Lowell Skoog in a thread in N Cascades route reports) that identifies the wrong rib by 180 degrees and only references the AAJ issue with the route report as a description. Two errors in a book is not a big deal, but these were the only two I knew to look for, so I found it alarming. Writer or publisher, I don't know from blame (and don't care to point fingers, writing a guide is a largly thankless task, a real labor of love), but I do wonder who will inherit the mantle? I'm all for adventure, and the odd "obvious gully" is all part of the alpine game, but it's always nice to have some indication of what face the climb is actually on. Before all you Friend-Of-Fred's play dogpile on me, I'd like to acknowledge that his Cascade alpine guides are pretty amazing and comprehensive, far more ambitious and unmatched by anything I've ever seen published for any other range, but the select guides are just not an adequate substitute, any more than McLanes Alpine Select for Canada is a one for one replacement for Fairly's guide, and I think it's a matter of substantial concern as to who CAN step into Fred's shoes, especially if he's starting to lose track of the details. I think Lowell's question about a Cascade Alpine Journal is in part about a way to address this concern.

Damn, the snow/ice traverse actually had a trail!

I'd never be so incoherent whilst (vainly) trying to curb your pagetopping ass ya worthless bitch.

Kunza is a great climb, but it forever has a bad association in my mind. The time I did it, my friend who lead it had a hard time, and her boyfriend (another friend) was just vicious in his criticism, reduced her to tears. It made for an uncomfortable experience for the six or seven of us there as spectators. Relationship meltdown in a very public forum is not necessarily entertaining, but I dunno, I don't think I've ever been reduced to screaming at my climbing partner.

Actually, I've always wanted to do this, but stepping back even further, wearing wool knickers and a pair of robbins blue boots, with a rack of pins and a goldline rope, capped off with a natty white cap like Robbins wore back in the day. If it went off well, you could even take the performance art piece on the road, bill it as "The Return of the Wack and Dangle Merchants."