Off_White

Dane: Have you seen the route? Done the route? Have a name or rating? Know who put it up? Know when they did it? Examined the "seam" in question? How many bolts are there? How far apart are they? How steep is the route? Are there any drilling stances? It seems a bit half-cocked to start writing letters to gear manufacturers before you have all the information. An "aidable thin seam" is different from a free climb, and I don't think bashies, as others have proposed, are ethically superior to bolts. Since the bolts were hand drilled, the legality is not in question, so what's the access issue? It seems to me that you're arguing that a: bolts don't belong in the mountains and b: rap bolting is not a valid means of establishing routes. Am I reading you correctly?

Napoleon Dynamite was pretty funny sitting next to a friend who kept exclaiming things like "I've been in that school" and "I've eaten at that place." She grew up about 30 miles away from where it was filmed, and declares the film to be frighteningly accurate. I haven't seen Team America yet, but I could instantly tell that Fairweather was quoting, not tossing off-topic barbs at AK. It's on my list, though Shawn of the Dead is tonight.

I wipe the toes on my pants right before I start the pitch.

Bill mentioned sharing a nut tool. I find I use mine leading on alpine stuff as much as following, excavating nut placements and such. If you're doing a clean trade route, like N Ridge on Stuart, one is all you'll need, but if you're going adventuring you might really miss those extra ounces.

Hey E-rock, happy bday. Are you ever coming back to the promised land?

Dane: I don't have a problem with your clean up actions at Dishman, it seemed like a pretty reasonable middle of the road solution. The re-installation of the bolted on holds and retro-bolted crack climbs seems to have driven you over the edge. I understand and sympathize with your frustration and infuriation, but rather than racheting up the hyperbole on the issue, I think some sort of negotiation is in order, and may best be brokered by an outside less entrenched entity. I suspect it's likely that the AF/WCC recent interest in the issue is more due to the likely damaging nature of an escalating bolt war, rather than the smaller regional issue of recent abuses at Dishman. Having the discussion devolve into a belligerent cycle of "Fuck you" and "No, FUCK YOU", with it's physical iterations, will only result in the closure of the crag. I truly believe your position (no chipping, no bolt on holds, no retro-bolt next to reasonably protectable cracks) is supported by the vast majority of climbers (myself included), and I urge all to make their feelings known to both the Access Fund and the Washington Climbers Coalition. Remember that abusive diatribes only detract from the substance of your message. Is Marty Bland out there reading things these days? I'd appreciate hearing from you, and I respecte your input in the earlier discussions of this issue. Your willingness to participate in dialogue is admirable.

You mean like BC is to Alaska?

Thanks Will, that was an interesting read, and the first I'd heard of it. On the one hand, it is a logical revision, but you're right about the timing and misdirection smelling a little like dead fish.

I'll take the question! That Rangel-sponsored draft bill, HR 163, was filed in January 2003. I've received several breathless e-mails about the impending draft and how it was time to do something about it. Since any e-mail that exhorts me to forward it to everyone I know sets off my bullshit detector, I looked into it a little further. The bill made a point of including all men and women, specified no college deferment, and required conscientious objectors to serve in non-combat positions. One of the co-sponsors was our own Jim McDermott from Seattle. You know, Baghdad Jim, anti-war activist? Out of curiosity, I called his Seattle office and spoke to one of the staff. It seems the bill, introduced prior to the Iraq war, was more or less a "modest proposal" (you know, like Jonathon Swift's proposal to cure the problem of the poor by eating them?) intended to call attention to the "likely" results of the war. It was never a serious proposal, never even came to a vote in committee, and finally expired there last week. Fact is, neither party wants a draft, and the military isn't that hot on the idea either. Remember, we've been moving towards a smaller lighter faster more technological military for awhile now, and there just isn't anywhere to plug in a big load of unwilling drafted cannon fodder. On the administration's side, I'm sure they're keenly aware that a draft will kill all popular support for the war. In short, I don't think it's gonna happen.

Yep, it's lovely today, nice and dry. With the changing season, everyone needs to start taking three hour lunches to climb in the sun, instead of the after work shade session. C'mon out.

Dude, orange is the new pink, and Carhartts are appropriate for any occasion.

I heard it was only 94 in a 55, but I still thought it was doing alright to not get arrested or charged with reckless. I think the only hope is for the cop to not show up. For $411, you might as well try, and as you noted, at least you can turn the appearance into another trip to Smith...

DFA? I saw him and his prana clad wife on Sunday. What a gracious and charming couple. DrCrash, why is it you have no accent online? Good to meet you this weekend.

Yup, it was a great weekend. Thanks to Snowbyrd, Thinker, CPoly, and the unregistered lurker for being great climbing partners. Congrats on the stylish ascent Snowbyrd. Here's a few pics from the weekend Snowbyrd steps out on the Super Slab traverse, while Thinker provides a thoughtful back rope. CPOly uses his new rack of nuts on Spiderman Snowbyrd starts up Spiderman Snowbyrd belays Thinker up the second pitch of Spiderman The weather was clearly atrocious. Everyone has a sunset shot of asterisk pass, now I do too.

Ahhh NOLSe, how they misjudged you. Little did the erstwhile folks at Ascentionist know you would immediately post the invite on CC.com for all to see. I think any thread that both you and Rumr post in is automatically a spray thread...

It may look ominous, but people shouldn't be dissuaded from rapping down into the gully. We made it with one 150' 9 mil no problem, and the climbing in the gully was quick and secure, though there were some instances where the snow bridged above the gully. It was much faster and more palatable than that rock version to the left sounds like, and dumps you right out at the start of the snow arete. You've nicely captured the way the route looms in your imagination, and the fact that the mediocre climbing doesn't really diminish the epic appeal of that rib.

Maybe, since he has a girlfriend now, he's too busy to spend ALL his time here. Besides, it's not all roses being a spraymaster on the dole, he does have to go stand in line for food stamps now and then, and there's always laundry...

You're dissembling, everyone knows it was the Candadians who invented that sport.

The mysteries can be fun, but after those name that peak/route games it's nice to go back and insert the correct name. That lets the search function find the photos for future reference.

Nope, Thrutch isn't banned. Either a forgotten password, moved on, or just doesn't love you that way anymore.

In 1972, the summit plaque on Mt. Whitney stated it's elevation as 14,494.811 feet. I need to get my contract form reviewed by a lawyer. Oh fuck, property taxes are due the end of next month. That Dead Moon cd I made for RBW is pretty damn good, I should make myself a copy. I miss my cat. Wow, that's a nasty looking spider. I spend too much time on this board. I should remember that sequence at the top of Shaking Hands With The Governor. I wonder if Lancegranite is as bald as he sounds. I hope it's nice in Maine this weekend. Gotta pick up those shoes at the resole outfit. Sometimes, I hate making phone calls. The new IRC code is much more of a hassle with regards to braced wall panels. My engineer is going to appreciate the increase in business. Take the garbage out. Why does it smell like dead thing outside? I miss my cat.

I believe Peshastin is closed due to the fire and erosion concerns.

excellent effort, to all involved.

I believe him, Greg doesn't tend to be shy about owning up to his shennanigans.

Looks good. A few things in the vicinity of the central drainage (Up The Creek, Bolted Flake, The Hell You Are) are wet, everything else looks good. Cloudy, cool, and dry.