sketchfest

I haven't seen a snaffle like that since high school

You know Bill, this is a great discussion to have and I think this is as good a place as any to start it. Bolt or trad, nail or free…blah, blah, blah the debates rage on. I haven’t been climbing as long as some of the people on this board and I haven’t ever gotten caught up in these arguments. I love to climb and I don’t care if I climb a super popular sporto route, a gear gobbling crack or even a damn boulder in the middle of the woods; to me it all has worth. The only times I get bent out of shape are when I find a new bolt line right next to an existing line or bolts get added to an existing line that aren’t necessary. Recently, at the Butte specifically, anchors are getting chopped for no apparent reason on routes that have been established and climbed for years. My feeling is that if you are replacing bolts on an existing route, replace only the ones that need it, don’t add more because you don’t feel comfortable. If it’s a new line and there is no natural protection, add only what is needed to make it safe. As far as hand vs power, having worked construction since I was out of high school, drilling through concrete by hand is nothing short of suk. Power drill by dawn, climbing by noon. Bill the one thing that struck me from the few conversation that we’ve had is that you climbed with most of these guy’s at one time or another and even had a route or two of your own chopped i.e. Young Warriors, did any of the choppers give you any indication as to why or what they thought about all of this?

Coylec, Here's a thread from awhile ago that kinda asked the same question, hope it helps. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/327634/page/8/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1

Bug, do you or the person you were climbing with have an accent? If so, I think we heard you guy’s hollering at each other while we were on the summit. It sounded like neither of you could hear the other very well.

Hey pnut, nice to meet ya, sort of. b-rock and I woulda loved to have stayed and chatted to find out if your second had as bluddy ankles as you did, but we where glad to have started our raps before the masses engulfed the summit and began theirs. Hey Timmy and Jon how about some helmet stickers "CC-gaper on board" I'd make it a hella lot easier to identify each other. Christ, we can at least have something better than the mounties and their duct tape and black felt pen name tags.

My friend Jeff and I were just asking ourselves, what does Fred do when he's not climbing or writing guide books? Well the answer appears quite simple... Nothing! Fred is either climbing or writing a new guide, or, well maybe schmoozing your girlfriend.

For some insane reason, B-rock and I did the same thing only we came in via Asgard Pass. This was my first time in the area and was completely blown away by the beauty of it, I wish that we had more than just the weekend to check out some of the other peaks. The West Ridge is definitely a classic and the beer never tasted so sweet when we got back to the car.

Just got my Bike Nashbar catalog and the Selle Max Flite saddle is on sale for $80. It's not a narrow as the Selle elite, but it's a pretty nice saddle all the same.

That rule, hands down, sucks serious ass! Why not just ride harder if you want to beat him.

Doh!!

Do you think an axe would be appropriate?

Never been, but thinking about going this weekend. What are some of the "classics" in the .10a/c range (trad) that shouldn't be missed? How is the camping over there?...any other info would be schweeeeet!

OLN live every morning from 6:00-8:00am-ish. Nightly rebroadcast at either 5 or 6:00pm

I paid $120 for mine at the Fat Tire Farm, then turned around a week later and found it online for $60

Avocet used to make a saddle called the o2, super comfortable and fairly light, but the only time I see them now is on Sierra trading post or Performance bike as some kinda close out deal.

Here, check this out, http://209.193.47.141/index4.html these pics are constantly updated. I have a crew working at Wainwright.

This years tour is going to be interesting to say the least. Although Heras has more than proved himself in the mtns, who knows if the rest of his team is up to the challenge. I think that Mayo is going to play a much more prominent role this year, he rode very well in last years tour. Lance has had a busy year in terms of business: Subaru adds, OLN series, a well known chronic for a girlfriend, we’ll soon see if he put in the dedication required for #6. I hope so…Go Lance!

While suffering through the scorching heat of Smith this weekend, I heard the unmistakable sound of a bosch and the trundling of stones. Two guys were bolting and cleaning a route over on the Smith Rock Group. As of Sunday morning it looked like their line went all the way to the summit, anybody know what these two might have been working on? The upper pitches looked overhanging and hard...wonder what the grade will be.

Bummer, sorry to hear that Pete, damn bastard theives!!

which ever one is the most bomber!! I've managed to whip on most everything from 00's to #3 camalots. They are all my favorite

True, new stuff does come along that the testers don't know about, but one of the reported abuses is/was with EPO, which they can and do test for.

Bums scare me, in the same way carnies and midgets do! There was some talk of another mass drunken CC gathering to be slated for later this summer (August-ish). Prolly even at my house even.

That's the last time we let Mike organize the location for PC. I barely got 2 beers swilled before Mr. Rangerman was telling us to put out the BBQ and leave before he gave us all tickets.

Seems like everytime I went to Smith I climbed "Lions Jaw"...guess I thought it was cool to be climbing trad right next to a bunch a Prana topped bolt clippers.

So, what is the time consensus on dusk? Are folks gonna park at the park first, climb, then move their rigs before the swilling beigns? Or are they gonna park on the other side of the tracks first? Pete, your first b-day beer is on me!