sketchfest

No we were in the TNF at about 9,200' directly up from the top of the lift. We got hammered by the wind both nights we were there, I can only imagine how wicked it must have been for those guys at the saddle.

With the idea of climbing a sweet route and getting some last minute acclimatization, my partner and I set out Friday after work to camp and climb the Reid. The wind was howling from Friday on through Sunday, but the skies stayed clear through Saturday night, We motated over to the headwall armed with a couple of pickets and a few screws. The snow fluctuated between soft fluff to hard ice, but with two tools it wasn't so bad. As we exited the first gully we could see that the wind was shearing off the west ridge and vis was being cut by clouds rolling in from the North face. We decided to bail (variation 14A in Oregon High) and jumped to the west ridge and back down to camp. Probably could (read should) have stuck to the route and not bailed, but it was still a good climb. 50 to 60 mph all night and gust higher in the AM, getting down was just as exciting as the rest of the trip. All in all still better than watching golf.

Damn, to bad Thursday the 9th. I'll be on my way to Rainier. Even though my vote wont count, probably the best place would be Lucky lab. Hope there will be decent turn out. Definately interested for future PC's.

You're going to have a tough time getting there. The dam above lake Merwin broke earlier this week and washed out the road. The only way in is an additional 50 mile trip through logging roads and I'm not sure the local authorities have the detour complete yet. You might be able to get some more info off of one of the news channel sites.

As usual, there's always someone with some good info, thanks for the direction. Oh and uh project, why don't you back away from the glass pipe, let the blow torch cool down for a bit and shut your pie hole. WTF did you just get done reading the "how to spray" article in the latest issue of climbing?

I just checked some old threads, but didn't find the info I was looking for. Does anyone know what the current road conditions are up to Cold Springs or is there a website with this info? 'preciate the help

A lot of people car camp at T-line. Most people park in the lower lot and it never seems to be a problem for anybody. During the summer(and even winter) you will see motorhomes and campers parked in the lot next to the lower lodge. I have never been, or seen anyone rousted and told to get out.

I wouldn't say that the cluster factor was high it's just that everybody who was there was waiting for the same "classic". I would say that the rudeness factor was very high and if I see another boy scout, youth challange, drum beat'n, multiple route hoggin, rock chucking, pre-pubesent congregation, I'm gonna go postal.

I am impressed, I didn't know coorz still made a 12 pack, I thought you could only buy it in the handy suitcase size.

Skull Hollow? Only ever camped at Grasslands and the Bivy. I might have to give it a try. Anybody know why we have to cook in the p-lot, seems like fire danger is pretty low right now.

Can anyone tell me if they are allowing cook stoves outside of the bivy area at Smith? or are they still making you cook in the parking lot.

I think Jason brings up some good points. Not every memeber of these climbing groups: mounties, mazamas, whoever.. are arrogant and rude. I do believe that some members may be put in a posisiton of authority LONG before they are ready to be. Living in Oregon I have only had the displeasure of several unfavorable run-ins with some of the mazamas, but the results have been similar with those related in this thread: blind leading the blind. My example: On a very simple solo climb on Hood,(climbing southside) I ran across a large group of mazamas at the hogsback. From the point that I could make out specific words, I could tell that the climb leader was making an example of me and my desicion to climb alone, never mind what my experience is, how much I had previously climbed that year just broad stoke assumptions. All the while his "students" where carrying on in any fashion they chose, axe in the wrong hand, trying to pass the climber in front of them when they were roped together etc. When I confronted the leader about his continual bad-mouthing he confidently let me know (practically yelling) that I was the most unsafe climber he had ever encountered. I bring this up because the very next week, this same climb leader was up on the mountain with a new group of students late in the day on the west ridge when a crown fracture formed starting a moderate sized avy that seriously injured on an took the life of another. Like I and others in this thread have said before, there are good and bad in every group, but as Jason suggests maybe some type of reorganization and longer teaching periods are in order before these guys let loose their "teachers" on the rest of us who are climbing for the personal satifaction, not the ego.

Eastern Wa. aint to bad climate wise, but having spent some time in E. Wenatchee you might want to look else where. With all the chemicals that have been sprayed in the orchards for the last few decades, It's finally taking it's toll on the population. Some of the most grizzly murders have taken place in that town in the last couple years from the good neighbor next door. Some time location isn't worth the risk. Winthrop is pretty sweet too, but not much work in the winter, unless you can get on at the BIG lodge. Great biking in the summer and close to some serious winter climbs.

I haven't been out there in a couple of years, but I know form past experience, the owner is being more than generous in letting us climb out there,($5 well spent) plus there are some pretty decent routes for such a small area. Stay's fairly cool in the summer too!

What's PRG charging now for the honor of pulling on plastic at their little piece of climbers paradise?

East side or West side? Lucky lab is good on the East, or there's a McMinimins on every corner, right next to the nearest Starbucks

I thought I saw talk of this a week or so ago, but has anyone in Oregon thought of starting a PC in the Portland area?

Thanks for the info. I have a copy of Oregon High, but was wondering about the section the book shows as hidden. I hope the weather holds because the route looks sweet.

Weather permitting (and it doesn't look like it will) I'm planning a bomb run on the Reid late tonight/early Saturday morning. I climbed about half the route last Saturday untill I turned around, but I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the route finding is as straight forward on the upper half as it is on the lower half. I appreciate all beta.