sketchfest

Well once again Funguy and I failed to make the summit via Leuthold coulior, however we did find some extremely exiting climbing along the way to our failure. As impossible as it seems, we passed the entrance to the coulior in the full bright light of the moon and headed over to the west side of the Yokum Ridge where we quickly found ourselves climbing some very steep and sometimes mixed terrain. We started up the first of a series gullies that brought us closer and closer to the base of the Yokum, passing through some short but tricky section of THIN mixed climbing. Since we had intended to climb Leutholds we had not brought a lot of gear, read: ice axe and crampons, making these moderately steep gullies and short near vertical sections all the more exciting. At about 7:30am, we finally came to a bit of an impasse. The coulior constricted down to a near vertical section of loose rime about 20 feet long that appeared to top out on a thin ridge at about 9’500k at which time Funguy’s left crampon popped completely off as he tried to shimmy his way to the top and his right one came off but stayed on his boot. With no rope, gear or second tool it didn’t seem prudent to continue to push our luck, it was at this point we decided that it was time to turn tail and head home. The ensuing down climb was pure nerve racking HELL, as the already warm temps turned the crummy snow conditions even worse. So here is my question. After I got home and polished off more than a few brews, I wanted to know where it was we had been. I pulled out Oregon High and started looking at the photos. Best I could tell, we had traversed clear over to about the second or third gendarme, climbed through two distinct rock bands, slightly angling to climbers right, until reaching the constriction. As I looked at the photos it appeared that above this was another steep coulior that angled back to climbers left and then topped out in the middle of the exit gully. (12c, I think) From there it looked like another series of gullies might lead to the top of the hourglass. Does anybody know or has anyone climbed this line? Is it worth doing? Under cooler temps it seems like it would be a good climb, great feeling of remoteness. once again!

welome home TG!

One of my brothers just moved back from Soap Lake. All they got to do around there is drink and drive! A giant lava lamp would be an improvement for that town.

Mormon?...Catholic?...How many guesses do I get?

Looked kinda thin, how much pro did you guy's end up putting in?

Rob, guess I'm just not used to seeing that many people at 4:00AM

Yeah, Funguy and I bailed WAY to early, but from where we were at 3:00AM, the perverbial shit was hitting the fan and it wasn't until we ran into Mtnhigh, Shred, rbw and crew that we started thinking things weren't gonna be so bad. Unfortunately, we had already desended about 1/2 way down the Palmer and weren't very excited about the prospects of hiking back up to 9,4k. Oh well...seemed like a good decision at the time. And for chirst sake, I don't think I've seen that many people heading up the mountain in mid-June! for all who stuck it out

Aaahhh, that make sense.

I seem to remember a TR written by Terminal Gravity, where he used his GPS on a solo climb on Rainier, during a blizzard and his account is that it worked just fine. Maybe somemodels don't have the whole clear sky issue as others?

Good one Shreddy, but I seen your bag O' tricks! That pics from you trip with MtnHigh

ChrisT, you da bomb baby! Got anything a little closer?, like say the top of Palmer

Back of PU: tow rope jumpers first aid kit tire chains climbing harnes rock shoes water bottles (2) tube high temp silicone

By then, you can look at mine, tough guy. When are you heading up? Skiing or climbing?

Who's got a current photo of Hood, (last few days or so) they'd like to post?

Devils Peak in Mt. Hood Nat. Forest. Brutal hike in if you do it from Rhododendron, it's like 450' vert per mile. Great views of Hood

Aaahhh MtnHigh you are truly a sage, bring on the

If a slide show could be pulled together that would be sweet. At the very least everyone who shows should bring one of their favorite photos to get in the door. I think Rob had several that he brought to the last PC that were spectacular.

Yeah, I know, patience, patience, patience! I'm just going crazy to get out, I should know better Helen's is a good ski, but since I just broke one of my bindings and got no spare benjamin's I wont be skiing for a little while.

OK folks, has this question been pondered any further? Shreds house? Winters pad? How bout when?

Other than the South side of Hood, what other routes are(relatively) safe to climb on Hood shortly after or even during all this snow fall? Are there any? Or how bout other Oregon peaks?

I skied it with cat service back in 1990 &91. I got a free ride (ona count of some friends) The skiing was awesome, plus it was great snow years so the pow-pow was excellent.

B-rock, check your PM's

this is what I'm talking 'bout! http://www.kgw.com/live/livecams_external/timberline.jpg

Nothing like having a few beers, cruising home for a little loving, only to have your wife say, "Jesus H Christ, you stink!"

Woo hooo, stars and a free ride in a hearse..bring on the