Greg_W

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Whale meat is full of PCbs and dioxins. Thats why the Makah had to stop hunting the gray whales. are you suggesting we poison the poor? It would clean up the alleys and freeway overpasses. Greg W

quote: Originally posted by trask: If even $1.00 of my money went to that goddamned whale, I'd be pissed. We should have given the money to the "needy" in the state. Better yet, give the whale to the "needy". A whale can feed a lot of people. Greg W

quote: Originally posted by scot'teryx: I was up there this weekend and it was quite crowded. Here is my TR: Friday August 16 Headed up to Camp Muir Many of the folks we talked to on their way down mentioned turning around high up on the mountain due to bad snowbridges and crevasses. I did not like this news, as this was to be my wife's 3rd attempt on the mountain and I wanted success. We set up camp under gorgeous skies and no wind. Saturday August 17 John was to arrive today and bring the rope for our summit bid on Sunday morning. It was windy the entire day, even though there we clear skies, the wind made it unbearable to stand outside as it was quite cold. John arrived around 3pm and set up camp next to us. We got our plan for the summit, and got great beta from Glenn at the ranger station. He mentioned some junctions to watch for, and where to go on the cleaver, and where to move fast and such. Sunday August 18 (well, really saturday at 1130pm) The classic Suunto watch alarm whispered softly "beep beep" - the thing never works, but somehow we all wake up. We leave camp at 1230am and head out on the Cowlitz Glacier. There were about 2-3 small crevasse crossings which were small. We made our way up Cathedral Gap and continued on to Ingraham Flats. We meet some friends that had camped there but they were behind schedule so we continue on towards the dreaded "cleaver". We try to haul ass through the Ingraham Icefall, but the party in front of us is lost and cant get on the cleaver, and tension is high - we yell, but I don't think that helped. We finally get on the cleaver and make our way up what trail we think there is. RMI is 1.5 hours behind us, and we are almost in the pole position. After about on hour of scree hell we finally reach the top of the cleaver at 12,000 feet. It is real windy, and cold - we fuel up and continue on. We hit the junction and continue straight up. It's only 430 so we still have got an hour before full sunrise. We loose our position while on our break and get stuck in a bottleneck. The trail is ridiculously marked as it is a 6 inch to 2 foot trench at times, switchbacking back and forth. This continues on and on, and we have to wait for all the teams in front of us, and few let us pass by. After tedious switchbacks, we finally arrive at the summit at 7am. The wind has subsided. We turn around and begin the descent, we are the first ones to head down, and we have to cut switchbacks on crappy rime ice so that we can access the trail in between groups heading up. We finally get down to the cleaver and begin the descent. The other members decide that we descend another way than we came up, not too happy with this we head down the chossy pile of junk. We get lost several times, but find wands all over the place. It is real hot now so we were all a little cranky. We finally get off the cleaver and back on the Ingraham Glacier. We get back to Ingraham Flats and collapse for a few minutes. We head towards Cathedral Gap and traverse the Cowlitz back top Muir. We arrive at our camp at exactly 12 noon, 11.5 hours muir to muir. We rest for about 1/2 hour and pack up our camp and head down from Muir, getting a few glissades here and there we get back to the cars around 4pm. One small crevasse on the Muir snowfield at 9200 feet What, no video?

quote: Originally posted by erik: ...the "i wish i were erik" fan clib....trask is the pres and gregw is vp... Would like to take this chance to mention that we ARE interviewing for new members. This is not like the "i wish i were an asshole sportclimber with a pompous post-graduate title in front of my name" fan club where you pay your $5 and automatically get your yellow spandex and stick-clip. There are rules and initiations. Each candidate will be interviewed extensively by Trask and myself; female candidates should be prepared for swimsuit and talent competitions. PM myself or Trask, if interested. Greg W

quote: Originally posted by trask: but epic Don't you mean "butt" epic, Trask?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: you can make some pretty good wine out of dandelions. the only downside to the batch we made was that there was a lot of sediment in the bottles so you had to be careful when pouring it. Happens with grape wine, as well. Solution: proper decanting prior to serving should solve the problem. Greg W

quote: Originally posted by sk: And i was hoping that napalm would solve the WEED problem in my back yard tooo bad, I guess I will have to come up with something else... thanks DFA Napalm is an excellent defoliant, just ask the Vietnamese. If you have other weed problems, I am sure there are individuals on this site who can help you solve those, as well.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: theres a good section of the Anarchist's Cookbook that tells you how to make home made napalm from gasoline and styrofoam. It works really good, by the way.

quote: Originally posted by sk: it is in the etiquette section of the smith guide book. and I quote "Most distressing are the marathon top rope sessions. It's frustrating when you can't lead your project because 20 people are waiting in line to toprope it. Those wanting to redpoint a route typicaly have priority over toproping climbers" A sportclimber writing on climbing etiquette? Dwayner's right (shudder as I write that), marathon top-rope sessions suck, get up earlier if you don't like it or go somewhere else. Greg W

Trask; Napalm is a defoliant and wouldn't be as effective on snafflehounds. Better yet, try Mustard Gas; you can buy it at MustardGas.net. Greg W

quote: Originally posted by erik: ...i am just voicing my opinion... Funny how we can do that here in America. Way to go Erik.

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: quote:Originally posted by erik: [QB]...i am going to go up there and clean it tommorow....[QB] not if I get to them first! Either of you need a partner for this endeavor? Greg W

ChucK; I see the point you are trying to make, but it is totally different. RedMonk sounds like he's whining because he couldn't climb "his" climb. Erik is outraged due to an action by thoughtless individuals which will PERMANENTLY impact the rock; moral outrage, if you will. That is justified, in my opinion. Greg W

Rat Bastard Mofo!

Thanks Iain. Here's some just for you: Page top!!!! Thanks to you, Iain. [ 08-19-2002, 04:09 PM: Message edited by: Greg W ]

AAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! Little Bastards!! [ 08-19-2002, 04:06 PM: Message edited by: Greg W ]

quote: Originally posted by iain: yeah and she's a dry-tooling fan Couldn't...help...it...just...comes...out: Doesn't that chafe?

quote: Originally posted by erik: the things that helped me with it....was broadingin my partner base... I agree. I have climbed with about eight different partners off the .com this year and have found that it makes me more self-reliant within our little climbing team (i.e., I KNOW what I can do, I don't completely know what he can do). Like Erik said, you don't become dependent on a partner you're comfortable with. Greg W

quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by fern: I'm not icegirl mixedgirl Does that mean she goes both ways?

Hi Dan. Greg W

quote: Originally posted by Dru: if a snafflehound walks by does it set off the motion sensor? Or a deer? Or a cougar? No idea, just trying to get the straight story or debunk a myth. Next on the Ed Sullivan Show: Snafflehound Rock

I recently met someone who used to climb in Leavenworth back in the 80's. I brought up the Enchantments and she told me that the Forest Service used to have sensors on the Snow Lakes Trail to count hikers going in as compared to number of permits issued. Now, even for a right-wing conspiracy theorist like myself, this is a bit on the edge. Any of you older climbers hear about this back then? Just curious. Thanks, Greg W

Another thing: Scope out your first couple of placements on a pitch and mentally climb through that point before starting. That helps me to leave the safety of the belay with a plan.

I won't re-hash what's already been written, but will add my $.02: Looking at the whole of a route used to really intimidate me (still does if I let it). One of the things I love about climbing is that all I have to worry about and focus on is what's right in front of my hands and feet (to simplify it). I use this to break down the whole route into manageable parts. I focus on the pitches I am leading or on the 10' right in front of me. While looking up at a climb earlier this year, I asked my partner if the overall size intimidated him. He replied, "it's only 5.8." That didn't help me on that climb, but I have remembered it on climbs since and it does help. If it hasn't been mentioned before: aid climb on toprope; this will help you develop confidence in your gear placements. Greg W

quote: Originally posted by sk: [QB]... and realized that we didn't have enough of a rack (must get more cams) to climb it./QB] Nuts and Hexes work great on that climb; please explain. (Just curious)