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Al_Pine

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Everything posted by Al_Pine

  1. Al_Pine

    they honked and

    Erik, If all humans have the same worth, how is it that you feel justified in flaunting accepted driving etiquette, purposely hindering another driver? Isn't that a case of putting yourself above others, in particular the person who honked at you?
  2. I think it'd be a great name for a climb
  3. "I passed a mirror today as I was walking down the street. I felt subhuman, dirty and insane. I think I saw myself as they see me. It made me look twice because I didn't recognize the face at first. What happens when the soul goes insane? The outside features remain the same. Except for the eyes, which take on a whole new sharpness and gleam. Inside, the soul is electrified, writhing with jolts of pain and unrestrained joy. Everything is dark and there are no walls. Just the endless spinning and swinging, like a pillar of diamonds hanging from a charged wire. Alive, alive, alive. When the body goes to sleep, the soul gets up and paces the room waiting around for the body to get up. Sometimes it doesn't. "
  4. Ashcroft? Bin Laden?
  5. Is that Jim Nelson?
  6. Hung christmas stockings with stoppers in stonework fireplace. Million and one uses for wads of slings removed from the Tooth. I think a much more interesting topic would be what non-climbing gear have you used for climbing purposes.
  7. Looks like one more day before the rains hit. Don't have much pressing at work. Hatch the plan and execute. Head up to Sno Pass with the soloist to try some pitch I've been eyeing. Festivities undertaken on the drive up, I shoulder the load and head up the Sno Mountain trail. Sure is harder with a rope and gear n' shit loading me down! Pass up my usual bouldering spot in the fairy meadows of Cave Ridge as there is a need for speed today. I need to be back before anybody knows I'm gone. Stumble on up to Lundin, climb part of the West Ridge and get set on the overhanging perch above the prospect. Takes me about 15 minutes, (no lie!) to unsnarl the rope, #%*& , but I get the toprope set up and rap on down (too much of a pussy to lead this unknown thing with a soloist). Down at the base of the prospect. It's looking good. Clean rock, and a cavernous chimney going completely through the rock, then some slightly overhanging cracks . I'm not that experienced with the soloist yet, so I'm tieing a backup knot every chance I get. This, of course, unweights the rope so it won't feed by itself, so I gotta pull the rope snug by hand every chance I get too. Luckily the climbing turns out to be fairly easy. Easy ramp, then the cool chimney. The chimney is behind a big flake and the edge is all sharp with holds. There's a big chockstone at the top to mantle up on (I tested and cleaned it off on the way down.) Phew, partway there. Now some featured steep corner crack. Then a ledge. There's a mealy-looking handcrack curving up the last twenty feet or so. It's right where the toprope is heading, but it's just a bit overhung and thus intimidating (soloist manual says, ...will not catch upside down falls). I try to wimp out right, but the soloist holds me and won't let me go away from the anchor. So, I go for it. All goes well, awesome finish. Handcracks rule . Reach the top, pull up the rope. Pack and celebrate. Hurry hurry back to the car (no ticket ), zoom on down the road to the big city. No even knows I'm gone! Topo above. It's on the South Face of the West Ridge of Lundin. It's probably about 5.8 in the upper crack part, 5.7 below. Don't know gear exactly since I didn't lead it, but definitely bring a handcrack-sized cam or two. Reachable from below via several options, or traversing over from partway up West Ridge. Rapelling down to it works too.
  8. Nice Here's one from last week. ...
  9. I am not saying that game is in good taste... but what exactly makes that so offensive? Are you guys offended by Titantic (the movie), a recreation of a bunch of real people dying? Big moneymaker too. Or perhaps the continuing "raising the Titantic stuff"? Fortune-hunters pillaging an underwater graveyard? More $$. How about something like that old game Missle Command, a game that toyed with the idea of nuclear annihilation? Is that game more offensive that the TV show Cops? How about those "faces of death" videos? Food for thought
  10. Herr Klenke. I found a good image for you.
  11. Fair enough. Then I will straightforwardly point out thatt Slow Children apparently had many old fixed pins removed. If someone had replaced those pins with bolts it would have surely blemished what is (without pins or bolts) an outstanding pitch.
  12. ...
  13. The reason noone prolly does it is baecase there is an aid pitch to start it, and the guide says the bolts at the top are crap.
  14. Al_Pine

    movies that suck.

    The Rock is really sucky
  15. Al_Pine

    spling

    I got a question for you wordy word guys. In other languages than English, are the words for "orange", the fruit, and "orange", the color, the same?
  16. Al_Pine

    spling

    You spelled "iprmoatnt" wrong.
  17. Speaking of semantics, this is a textbook example of a "strawman".
  18. No. I only assumed the average difference is constant. Do the math. Youll find that you save weight with the friends, cover the same crack widths and have more cams. Which is good for longer leads.
  19. I left a log on Liberty Bell
  20. Only a 1/2 lb? You better do the math. That means that a whole rack of double units is only 8 cams. I don't thik so .
  21. Thats exactly what I carry already! maybe were twins?
  22. From this page : Kris and I hiked to the Snow Lake at Snoqualmie Pass on this fine afternoon. We had a fun time. A nice lady complimented Kris on her pretty hair. We said thanks and felt good. There were many interesting small dogs. On the way out, one particular dog was amazingly cute. He was white and furry, quite small, and tilted his head at the exact angle that elicits maximum emotion. With small paws whirring rapidly to keep up, the head properly tilted, and a worried somewhat strained expression, he captured our hearts. discuss
  23. I'll cary what I want. All you fuckers can get fucking fucked!!!
  24. I'd be embarassed by these quips if they actually came from anyone who climbs at all. <- me waving to you guys from the climbing area <- you guys
  25. I like to rack my gear on my harness and on a sling. The sling is one of those pieces of tubular nylon about 5 feet long and tied to make a loop. On the sling I put my tricams, my hexes and some cams. For the tricams I put the pink thru blue on one biner and bigger on another. For the hexes, the smaller ones 1 thru 5 go on a single biner, then 6,7,8 on another and number 9, 10 and 11 get their own biners. I put the big cams #3.5 camalot, #4 Camalt and #3 camalot on their own biners on the sling too. The smaller cams and the stoppers go on my harness. The cams on the right loop. #1 TCU,#2 TCU #.5 on one biner, #1 friend, #.75 camalot on another biner and the #1 camalot and the #2 friend on their own biners. I put my stoppers on the left loop of the harness. I have a double set of stoppers , 1 set of Wild Country and 1 set of Black Diamond. The Black diamond from #4 on up. I separate these onto 4 biners, grouped according to size, so I have one biner with all the smallest stoppers, 1 biner with the medium small, 1 biner with the medium larges and 1 biner with the largest ones. These all go on the left harness loop. I keep the quickdraws on the two rear harness loops. I have 3 foot long slings tripled to make quickdraws and one 5 foot (double) tripled and those go on the left rear loop. Then I have 8 Petzl sport draws with wire gates that all go on the right rear loop. I also have webolette (I love that thing!) and a nut tool that I keep on the left front loop with the stoppers.
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