ivan

the pirate treasure is a single nut stuck in the southeast corner route...its about 10 meters above the large tree that's the anchor at the end of the 3rd pitch...i think a pry bar would help, as the fucking thing will move around like crazy, but just will not squeeze out anywhere (and after 40 minutes of trying, one must admit, shit, this thing cost 5 bucks)

quote: Originally posted by ivan: discovered the triple post (ahhh...never thought of that, didya) would get me my first page top, so thought i'd celebrate top of the world ma shit, students entering room = time to work

discovered the triple post (ahhh...never thought of that, didya) would get my the page top, so thought i'd celebrate me first top of the world ma shit, students entering room = time to work

brock- can't climb tonight but i'd be all about it on thursday...if yer at the pubclub (and i must add, it would be mighty odd were you not, having planned it and all) we can discuss in whispers to avoid the ears of the aforementioned wild cactus

for some reason, the "i'm out climbing" excuse doesn't work w/ my wife...vague rumors and suspicions ...actually it's getting to the point where i think she'd rather i had more of an eye for ass, as it were, than rock...that way she could compete, ya see? she's a beautiful creature though, and highly tolerant, like a cactus in bloom...she'll be along for drinks this evening shred...didyer boss ask you to smile for examination this morning?

bring yer hot girlfriends...this still applies even if: a) your already hot b) your already a girl i of course am allowed to window shop, but that's what makes me so sweet and mellow last one there buys the beer for all?

sweet climb, senor, but was it worth not getting drunk for? i'm thinking the answer is a resounding yes but what now? has the desire to climb been quelched, or is it but one more fix in an ever increasing addiction to the dreaded rock? fuck...tuesdays suck

alright...so i'll be there, but dammit, i'm missing "enterprise" for it! speaking of the old right hand, christ, has anybody seen the vulcan chick on said show? oh, wait, i'm married... also, i'm still wet behind the ears to portland...where the hell is this place?

ditto on beer thanks, TG lessons learned from weekend: 1. get the wife hammered enough and she'll sleep anywhere w/o complaints 2. despite all evidence to the contrary, it is not "all good" for some folks 3. being equipped w/ a lighter and nothing else sure can come in handy 4. natural ebullience = i must be on speed to most good weekend enjoy your respective livers

colonel, givler's rocks...done it before but would be glad to do it again (is a bit of a walk up the hill...can we put in a chairlift or what? coke might pay for it if we let them sponsor the rope-up) ...you get the first pitch of givler though reckon it will be a clusterfuck...first decision, who's remotely sober enough to be trusted? and are they german?

yeah, jens, but you're a sexual tyransaurus when you take to the rock...us flacid and flabby neolithophites get scared and weepy when we attempt to follow your effortless leads actually that's bullshit...as indicated i dug doing one fourth of brass balls w/ya and dan...if i can find ya i'm sure i'll attach as a damn leech sabuto mofos oh, yeah, and after intensive research i've deduced that "ktk" is a) NOT a newfangled sexual lubricant b) NOT a refuge for girly men or manly girls c) probably an elite paramilitary organization cooler than eagle scouts d) definitly only attainable by those knowledgeable of walking what fatso buddha might have called "the boozer way"

i'll take my tee in an extra-small...like to emphasize my manly belly, ya know?

i'm in the same situation meself...matt, neversummer, need any extra hands? i've done a few routes at castle rock already (enjoyed the hell oughta falling off the first roof of brass balls ) won't be around until saturday afternoon but staying through sunday

i just guess either nobody loves you or they're too focused on getting wasted and flailing up something on castle rock to think about some big scary glaciated beast far too close to those pesky canadians

i'm in vancouver, wa and get out of school at 3...i could pick it up, but understandably there'll be little of it left if i can eventually find the part-ay somebody pm me if they want my assitance, otherwise i'll just drink the fruit's of another's labor

west ridge is definetly doable as a car-to-car...joshK and i did it two weeks ago in 14 hours from snow creek...certainly no sense in using 2 ropes, and bringing a short rope might do just fine as the total amount of face requiring a serious belay is probably no more than 60-70 feet...a gorgeous area, and the south face looks incredible, but i found the w ridge pretty ho-hum after the long walk in (might have been spoiled by doing the w ridge of forbidden and n ridge of stuart in the preceeding month)

to explain, home to home seems like bullshit b/c its not comparable...everyone's coming from someplace different, with different traffic conditions...there's no way to tell who has the bigger dick, so to speak, unless you're leaving from the same place at the same time...i'll leave alone the question as to why times must be compared at all far as acclimating goes, this is going to be pretty negligible if you're doing the standard 4 hour sleep on a friday night before shoving off before dark (or non-existent if you role in at that hour)

super long car-to-car is cool, provided you have one simple thing: a cozy car to sleep in when its all said and done (optional hot chick to sleep beside also helps)...seriously, why is everyone so afraid to sleep outside, especially when its well deserved (and when you're generally so tired you could sleep in a chinese kitchen?) the machismo is figured by your roundtrip foot-time, not car time... far as routes requiring more than a day: heard just about everyone say jo-burg demands a bivy, despite the 15 minute approach

eager to avoid the insane masses of the buttress and do something that gets challenging long before the summit, i'm contemplating the west rib...read a couple of descriptions and looking for some beta from living humans who've done it...anybody out there?

-immense vulgar vocabulary (ability to curse in 3 languages a plus) -modesty (geniune or affected, whichever...also, total disregard for all life including their own can serve as a substitute) -as generally agreed, provides ample supply of pre- and post- climb mind/mood altering distraction -being hot can't hurt, especially if their leading (ya, occurs to me i haven't had a good partner yet) -mother?

one word for peace - piece

so i want to climb denali this coming summer...as i'm a teacher can't make it outta town and to talkeetna before june 20 or so...my partner seems to think the snow will be too shitty to land on any of the glaciers that late...is this true? does there usually occur a time each year when the planes stop landing on the glaciers? if so, what is the range of dates when this stoppage occurs?

never climb w/ orangutangs (or try to spell them either)...all the hair, plus they climb better than me, don't protect long traverses and throw excrement at you the whole time you're seconding

all the cool people bivy sans permit all the cool people use the word "sans" in everday conversation too

josh...sounds like you're the guy whose car i slept by after the rain stopped friday...no shit on the 3 things you didn't want to be doing this weekend...the east ridge didn't happen....ah, well, it was all worth it just to make that miserable avalanche traverse...gimme a call if you ever need someone to climb w/...i'm new to the northwest and still trying to put together a pack of fools to keep the weekends entertaining