ivan

kurt, i can't defend the original TR - i thought i was being funny at the time, only to see the whole thing blow-up like a big shit balloon when it looked like totally innocent people were going to get in trouble. that's the true source of my anger - the use of nazi is no doubt extreme, but while we're on the subject, how many nazis after the war defended their actions by saying they were just doing their job? when someone chooses to enforce inane rules they earn my disrespect and scorn - as a petty authority figure myself i well understand this, and there are many regulations i do not enforce on a daily basis for that reason (this is why the classic government class lesson that the legislature makes law and the cops just enforce it is actually bullshit - administrators in fact are key creators of law in their own right, since they continously pick and choose what laws they enforce and how to interpret them). again, to be as specific as possible, there is nothing wrong w/ the sensible consumption of ganja - i can only hope this senseless era of prohibition will die sometime during my lifetime so much of my contempt for The Man will go away...

oughta turn this into a shout-out for those who've been robbed at the butte - alright, how many of you sprayers have gotten your shit (or someone you know's shit) ganked at the christian crank-alley? made me realize last night the value of my stealthy total piece of shit mitsubishi mirage, parked right by jon - guess the shit-stains and 6 inches of garbage on the passenger side didn't inspire much confidence in any would-be theives seriously, keeping all your shit on you or in a trunk has to be SOP at the Butte setting up a sting operation might be a pleasent alternative to DT night tonight, eh jon?

more intersting than the actual accidents, i think, is to discuss how folks react in the minutes and days afterwards. for my own incident, initial joy was overcome a few minutes laters w/ intense fear, especially the fear that i was in fact already dead but in some sorta "jacob's ladder" type fantasy world, or that i had missed some glaringly deadly injury that would any moment make itself know. over the next hour, as i hiked down to fetch a rope to help my stranded homeboys, i underwent a complete atavastic regression - like a primeval rat in the jungle of 2 million BC i was sick w/ naked fear at every sound of wind in the rocks, every rustle of snow crystals down the slope - convinced that sudden death, denied it's most certain prize, was on its way to collect. hours later i was happy but still dumbfounded, repeatedly reliving the experience and laughing over it for medication - amazed and still kinda waiting for the other shoe to drop days later and stretching to today i don't attach any radical significance to it at all - just a very lucky lesson and a distinct fuck-up to avoid in the future

a question of definitions, easily dealt with: self-righteous - a condition whereby a person believes their own values and views are so laudable they should be imposed on others (implication of definition => me deciding to take risks w/ my health, again within "sensible boundaries" is not self-righteous; i'm not telling you how to live you're life, nor arousing the wrath of the body politic against your own eccentricties and threatenign you with imprisonment - i'm just calling the big meanies of the world who want to foist their own moralities on me assholes - i doubt i'm the first to do so) as far as saying self-righteous fucks deserve the zulu-treatment, the emphasis is on "deserve," which is quite different than saying "we should actually round them up and give them the old-sharpened stakes pounded up the ass (my most recent and interesting learning from reading "the washing of the spears")" sensible boundaries - the definition in this context applies specifically to behaviors committed while "under the influence" and apply equally to alcohol. it's insensible to drink heavily and climb with others, insensible to drink heavily and drive a car at 100 mph, insensible to drink heavily and go to work. (implication - all my posts have been done dead sober, so the poor taste i've shown on occasion in writing shit that's totally untrue, just for the sake of being a wierd fuck, including bullshit about park rangers handing out tabs of acid and assisting me growing 'shrooms ontop of rainier, can't be chalked up to being "under the influence" - in truth, i'm just an asshole - wait, maybe i should become a nazi too, i appear to be qualified. anyway, if anyone's still reading this beserko-manifesto, it might interest them to know i don't even smoke anymore; like when i quit tobacco, ages ago, i simply refused to allow my own decision to quit to turn me into a judas - i am equally revolted by the american legions who want to demonize cigarrete smokers and make it so the only damn place they can light up is in their homes, in their bedrooms, under the covers and for the cost of 300$ a pack. again, it is repugnant self-righteousness to enforce your view of health and morality upon others who are doing you no direct harm. slainte

"It is dangerous to be right when the goverment is wrong" - Voltaire the nazis are watching all of you bastards...any body who has a problem w/ others using the green, within sensible boundaries, is a self-righteous fuck and deserves the zulu-treatment

a) nothing needs to be pitched out on that route, it can all be done w/ running protection - simul-climbing. b) small-medium rack - bring a bunch of runners, including long ones - there's tons of big blocks to sling for pro. you can get away w/ very little gear on this climb, but if you like to have a bunch of gear, you can find uses for any cams up to 3 inches, including aliens. c)yes

wow - i'm glad this story had a happy ending. did you test the bastard boulder before you slung it? i don't understand the setup on the belay either - in retrospect was there a way to improve it?

nolse, you might want to check that he's not related to TED bundy first... course, if you're going armed for dt'ing, i who fukswitcha

any relevant details on the accident? north ridge route? unroped (i assume?) mt washington = big pile of crap passing for "alpine rock"

oleg v - a persistent man! now that you've got this volcano shit done, my russian druk, it's time to start w/ the alpine rock beyatch! you know my schedule...

not hard to do - just use the attached letter and insert a few witty profane statements to insure the powers that be notice you so how good is madrone wall anyway? yet another place i'm gonna feel like a shit climber at?

perhaps you could just apply for a job w/ homeland security and get paid to do what you love? i forgot to restate, for the record, i and all like me are innocent - totally morally pure - saints, really. i gotta go help a little old lady cross the street now.

actually, i was trying to imply that i am a teacher (i am). homework takes about 5 minutes to think up and assign, and w/ the cream of the student teachers-aides to pick from, relatively little of my time to process. the summer i spend working on school is the summer i open my veins up afterwards too... dammit, what the hell am i sitting here spraying for? time to go!

you must really hate teachers then! all the joys of the student schedule, w/ none of the homework - now if only i could get paid a living wage i could have some of those alien-thingees on my rack....

...as of 2 minutes ago i won't have internet at my house till next week, but i'm in pdx and pretty much looking for relentless amounts of alpine and cragging all damn summer. pm me or call 360 882 6589. beacon opens soon too goddammmit! enjoy your damn cubicles, spray-lords!

i know who left the #4 and a buncha nutz i guess the leashless didn't turn up though!

hmmmm, i wonder who left all that booty gear?

thidebar - doeth anyone else feel like they're developing a lisp when they thay leutholds?

hal's recent pix at http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/468934/an/0/page/0#468934

one way i imagine would be quite cool would involve doing the hike in mountie creek in the afternoon. there's a fine bivy site at the toe of the n ridge, about 20 yards away from where the climbing begins - from there an early start and a strong party could climb the full ridge in a day - downclimbing the sherpa in the dusk might be less than fun, and certainly hiking back up 500 feet or so of the moraine to the bivy would suck. you can bivy further down in the creek, which'll be buggy but has plenty of water. there are also spots halfway up the moraine (only a few minutes of regaining elevation at the end of the climb) and at the top, but no running water.

flashback - a year ago today: Granny's Asscrack

sounds awesome - hope to be there!

Ditto on jon's message - when 2 doorknob park rangers drive 3 hours in a huge gas-sucking SUV to show up at my fucking doorstep and waste an hour of my life w/ the big hairy eye-ball investigating a "story" based on information gained in an equivalent fashion to reading graffiti of the men's room wall (if half the shit i wrote on this board was ACTUALLY true, i not only would be arrested, i'd be excommunicated, divorced, fired, and probably drawn and quartered), you gotta wonder what the fuck we're spending that federal money on? couldn't it be better spent making muir more handicap accesible or putting in a big shiny RV park at paradise? fuck you nazis everywhere! oh, and for a good time, call (360) 695-5932

extreme hiking = doing an approach for a climb w/ all your gear, only to turn right the hell around at/near the base of the climb due to any number of factors including weather, conditions and gumby-ness