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Everything posted by ivan
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"no man but a blockhead ever wrote, but for money" good luck
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first ascent [TR] Tower Rock - FA - Rapunzel's Back in Rehab - C1 7/15/2015
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Southern WA Cascades
indeed, soon as i return from the winds, it will be time for chuckles n' upchucking from fear, fearless leader -
groovy.
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[TR] Mt Hood - Devils Kitchen - Right Variation 6/12/2016
ivan replied to bluto's topic in Oregon Cascades
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here's mine, albeit 12 years before global-warming advanced http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=365727
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forbidden 4 a forking reason?
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6/9 - die X - not such a balmy day after all this august heat - grey and gloomy - school's done as done can be, just the simple matter of casting these cynical bastards off in the morrow's afternoon and it's summa, summa, summa jeffy-t at the register rock in the half rain - a good gavreet and a glorious shit and it was sauntering time - rambled up to the top-most railing and ran down the stone soup, taking in the rare auold sights - was a trifle baffled by the dangling old fixed line at three tree - guess that's what it means to make nice w/ the neighbors - cut out the hanging trash and cast in on down and couldn't for the life of me find it once upon the ground - wouldn't mind recovering it really, it's the rancid remnants of my first rope, bought back in the waning days of clinton-one might be a bit for beacon - next week's the redwoods and yosemite and san-franny w/ the famibily, then mike n' me making our easting off to the wind river range n' hopefully high times....
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the south side of hood's a very reasonable solo
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i approve of this message
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fawkya, the whole gawdamn place smells like pork rinds
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how is that top pitch? i swear it's the only thing keeping me from it
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no stories ever on the internet, just lotza white noise
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but...like...yeah...you didn't do the same second pitch...
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really enjoyed the hell out of seeing ya'll up there - the first complete ascent by a team not having one of the original climbers on it - kewl. i'd be happy to help out w/ changes you're thinking about making. p5 in particular could use another bolt or two, if only to swap out the skeery, incipient fixed pins which were NOT intended to stop some free-climbing hardman's fall
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more like the village bicycle...
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5/28 - day 9 - many hikes up hamilton in recent days, but that don't hardly count - thursday was out for the big walk an saw topher n' company on stone soup - brought a bit of a smile to the heart n' had a good govreet w/ them fools after the walk was over - passed off a sawzall, which didn't appear to get much use, and after a few gut-laff's w/ denali-dave, all done up and vivisected on account of his duputryens, danced away west teamed up w/ geoff today - hadn't seen that courtly fool since casting him off at his hill house shortly after completing our spring break trip to the valley our sad friend greatly hobbled all this time gone by, he braved his early exit from fat-phuck retirment and out we went - topher'd pulled his ropes, and we rambled up the first 2 pitches, me getting all the good work the recently renovated p1 was hardly noticable - p2 not so much - a new bolt allows the aid'n fool to skip the eyebrow cave (bryan managed this same variation w/o a bolt i recall) which makes the aid across a bit more mellow - no more sling on the tree above the bush but it still works, so long as you fully extend your daisy and commit to the top step on tiny handholds the 2 upper headwall bolts all ripped out and eloped east - it got called stone soup for a reason - the new way just fine, aiding-wise, and kinda fun as it forces some funky mixed free maneavours to make the high step rawked out for the rest of our times - 3 tree - the long way down - rangers abound - beers and butts - the boat-dock - always bet on #28 - the big bound home
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perhaps the filmmakers took the obvious gully to the title proper? "dirtbag" seems pretty much fucking perfect... "old balls smell" miiiight be more accurate, but less famibily friendly
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if it's not at least as long as ken burn's civil war series it's not near long enough
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[TR] Yosemite Valley - Golden Gate 5/13/2016
ivan replied to mtep's topic in The rest of the US and International.
no me gusto stories of exploding bolts -
your internets appear broke-ed
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first ascent [TR] Tower Rock - FA - Rapunzel's Back in Rehab - C1 7/15/2015
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Southern WA Cascades
Time to shop for a used Kompressor on Craigslist naw, the work of putting in bolts ain't the issue, it's the rock quality - at the base it's like a 17 1/2 year old crack whore, at the top more like a 73 n' 3/4 year old one the top seems to be safer to jump off of then to climb up onto -
first ascent [TR] Tower Rock - FA - Rapunzel's Back in Rehab - C1 7/15/2015
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Southern WA Cascades
5/13/16 - round 8 spring - the earth reborn - time to return to see how them fixed ropes fared after months of tempests tortured them big bill once again the big guy in charge - he fetched me from my humble abode on a thursday afternoon and we headed north our plan was to try to drop in from the top and return to the highpoint old men rise w/ the birdies and gawddamn it, though i was playing hooky from work, somehow i'm awake an hour earlier than normal? jesus, is this what lies in store for us all? exciting times ensued as we sought to figure out how to finagle together passable roads to get close enough to hump a horrid bit of bullshit to the promised land- impromptu road-construction, tree clearing and many dead ends ensued and hours went by before we got it all sorted out, only to find the road near burley mountain, still miles away, choked w/ impassable snow giving up on doing anything terribly productive, we settled for hiking the road to see if we could at least drive it after it melted out and locate the suspected trailhead - a couple hours of downhill slogging n' forest surfing returned us to the tower top, which looked every bit as uninviting for trying to rap down as it did the first time not terribly excited at the prospect of trying to go over the edge, i settled for sucking down a couple beers and contemplating just hucking meself off the top like the forking free-basers - that done w/, we slowly crawled back up the long hill to the automovat, n' reversed our wending way back down to the cispus's quiet side, where we stared at the face w/ some high-powered optics the sight of the ropes still in passable shape and the blue bolt-bearing bag glowing like a goddamn beacon high up the wall brought back the fight in me, and though the weather forecast didn't support a bottom-up attempt on the morrow, fukit, why not at least go up and climb as much of the route as we could and inspect the fixed lines from top-down? grey and storm-threatening on saturday - we found the approach road blocked by a giant tree just a hundred yards or so from the start of the trail and slowly stumble-fucked our way up the hill, the path as short and savage and uncertain as ever i'd never gotten to do p1 before and enjoyed it - bill did p2 and, despite regretting your friend and humble retard's spacing of the bolts, made it go quickly enough - he even threw in a completly cock-eyed and unnecessary dangerous run out at the top sadly, his ever-suffering shoulder bearings blew out along the way, and big bill begged off continuing up - i figured i hadn't really brought enough beer anyway and the weather was clearly going to get ugly soon - we slid on back down, bill following on a hare-brained shoe-string of a tag-line did some lounging on the party boulder, pondering on where the upper route should wander to - hiked up to look at the fixed lines up close - thought them in surprisingly good shape, but i'm still a bit skert at the prospect of tangling with them soon gonna take a mort more work to make it go, and maybe the goddamn summit just won't be in the cards... -
cooper spur is kewl - kewler still when you go back down it and skip the shuttle
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quoting pol pot = X4 TR score don't worry 'bout dat genocide - sometimes bitzes gotta get got