-
Posts
18026 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
7
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by ivan
-
it's been awhile since i've seen him in a harness since he f'ed up his knee, but i seem to recall the johnson-era swami thing got the boot awhile ago gotta love duck tape though, my etriers are about 50% tape at the momemtn
-
iiiiiiinnnnnnnnnfffffffiiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnniiiiiiittttttteeeeeeee bbbbbbbbbiiiiiiiitttttttccccccccchhhhhhhhhhhhhiiiiiiiinnnnnnnggggggg
-
ha! the fucking slavs are slithering out of the woodwork to shit on me! i don't recall oleg, didn't we do the lower pitches of stephenwulf 2gether a few years ago? where you BEEN boy? i gotta get you in on this big wall thang!
-
what's the mod you make to sky hooks? i done used the interwebs to confirm that my other fancy hook is in fact that particuliar species of which you speak - non-mod seemed to work just fine
-
this is the best the lords of spray could cook up 2day?
-
after a half hour at my friends home-gym i find meself gravitating solely to the natural rock holds, so nice n' smooth n' cold...
-
read? novel... oh yeah, sure, i gotta talon - critical on this climb even, as the one in the video wouldn't work where that one did mostly i've just never given a shit about learning the brandname of anything...cars, powertools, people...wahtever - i point and grunt and it all works out
-
see above is the talon the larger guy in my video above? i have one non-bd hook bigger than that i picked up somewhere but have found the one in the video usually works just fine n the same kinda places...
-
[TR] Smith Rock - Air To Spare w/variation start 5.7 A3 X 1/21/2010
ivan replied to Lovetoclimb's topic in Oregon Cascades
aid climbers have more fun -
holy shit, something niether u nor wayne have done? guess i'm gonna have 2 get good n' drunk 2night! i'm a dipshit when it comes to hooks (or anything else really) - can't seem to recollect the names of any of them, save my boy mike's ibis hook , mostly 'cuz that one's so goddamn aggro-big it frightens me to carry it on lead, like i'm gonna fall w/ it and it's gonna end up 4 inches deep in my chest cavity! anyhow, i got bd's basic assortment i reckon - only carry 2 of them w/ regualrity - need to get some bigger cam hooks, the only 1 i have has yet to succesfully hold my weight!
-
isn't it fun when both retards can play on the same anchor at the same time? 4 bolts from 3 generations makes it all kewl'n'da'gang!
-
I'm a-scared of poison oak. it's only bad on the last pitch, andt here of course its 100% unavoidable - in winter you got plenty of clothes on so it doesn't matter much anyhow - i've never gotten zapped bad on that side, and i'm plenty reactive to it - the greater problem on the n is that, save seige tactics, nothing is climbalbe in the rain, or even days after rain - we gotta start getting some climbs over there that are more all-weather, which'll require plenty of bolts, or at least rivets
-
hey pink, have you climbed that final pitch to the summit of the norseman? looks very exciting and had 1 newish bolt that i could see - looked like much mandatory free- wasn't interested in choss-wrestling in the slime and i didn't want kyle to see me sweat niether!
-
the less a man makes declarative statements the less apt he is to look foolish in hindsight 'least the Man has an alternative to water-boarding you now
-
you didn't force kyle to clamber on up after you?!
-
naw, now it's time fo the truly disgusting grovelling on the n side!
-
piece of particle board w/ foam ducktaped to it n' holes drilled for loops to hook to anchor if you're doing a bigwall, they're practically indispensable, and worth the 60$ b/c they're more collapsible/lighter
-
watcha plannin on doing crevasee rescue w/ then, 8-ballz?
-
unless you're a truly talented free climber, aid climbing lets you get to much sicker locales, no (and w/ much great quantities of liquor!)?
-
all taint, all the time! good shot to capture da steepness!
-
the season is the issue i reckon - this time of year there ain't much that can be freed 'round here!
-
it's sane as an aid route - c2 (if lightly tapped in beaks count as clean ) - i can't fanthom freeing it but i'm sure you woulda styled it in your prime wayne - .11+ free i think the 2nd part, the bolt ladder above the hanging anchor, is funky - most bolts are 1/4 inchers w/ frail hangers, including several of the old pop-top types, but there's 2 newer bolts that make it so you probably wouldn't fall more than 20 feet if it all goes bad - would require a lot of pre-cleaning to free as its in super-deep, super-crusty lichen n' moss land - very fun for a ladder as you have to use 3 hook moves and a beak to link the bolts timewise...uh...lesse...listened to all my tunes alpabetically between B and D, so that ain't too long is it?
-
hooking on mossy slabs - so hawt right now [video:youtube] why in the hell must i make so many sideways videos? [video:youtube]
-
Trip: BaconRawk - Ze Norseman's Noggin Date: 1/23/2010 Trip Report: holy sweet fucking jesus in a jumpsuit! seems like its been months since i've been out to the bacon-wand and it hasn't been fuck-all awful - today was a salve for my slave-adled soul - not a breath of wind - warm, warm sun - rock supporating with run-off from the endless rains - the mist-bands passed by late morning rapped into big ledge w/ kyle - falcons seem likely to nest there again this year as they greeted us on arrival, regarded as cooly for a few moments before flapping off to fornicate somewhere - we get 1 more weekend yet you avian-ass-pains! they didn't appear to have set up shop for the off-season yet. linked the first 2 pitches off big ledge but didn't take on the 3rd to the slum-it as it was too wet and i've yet to do it even when its dry - i'd done forgot how fun the "bolt-ladder" part is, with its multiple mandated hook moves n' beaks - pin stacks and rust-sweating bongs from the carter administration add to the ambiance - a distinct valley feel to the whole route - a 50 meter pitch w/ wild exposure and steeeeeep a few feet up, kyle w/ anal implant recently installed it could be the valley, right? is kyle channeling the joker? great place to take pix - could get sick shots of a leader on dastardly while dangling there shit-eating grin 6.0 and suddenly so serious... reach like a big boy! he doesn't look like he teaches special-ed, does he? to infinity and beyond! above the norseman's helmet yuppie time on big ledge - larry bitch-left by jim for being tardy - plans to shoot down the wall for The Big Hang-Out - then i gotta get to p-town and help mis amigos to move their shit about everyone had that shine 2day - musta been the miserable weather joe savaged that yellow mastercam that had been stranded on little wing for the past year - turns out there ain't much a sawzall can't destroy - think rei could be convinced to make good? can't believe this was damn near the last hurray till july for the south side - spring was on the move today - every tree and branch swelling - fuuuuuck! Gear Notes: purple tcu critical, big hook, triple hook, bird beak Approach Notes: touron trail to the first turn-out!
-
one of the few fucked up things in the universe the spray-o-sphere can effect is not Giving Aid and Comfort to Unabomber Types