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Rainier_Wolfscastle

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Everything posted by Rainier_Wolfscastle

  1. I agree. They I bought a used pair this summer and have been using them for ice this winter. So far they have been warm enough for Utah Ice climbing. They perform well on ice and rock. They are probably not warm enough for really cold or long trips to the mountains. I have wide feet and had to get one of them stretched for the pinky toe. I guess my feed are kinda jacked up. Anyway, tasty now. I think they suit mid/low volume feet the best. They are a tad heavier than the new Trango Ice model. Otherwise they climb about the same.
  2. Any that are good for skiing will not climb as well as a mountaineering boot. It's one or the other. I'd get some boots that ski well, and just live with the poorer climbing performance. You can save some weight by selecting a boot with or adding a thermafit liner. I have a pair of Garmont GSM G-fit AT boots which are very light, stiff, and ski well. The weigh about the same as my Scarpa Invernos. The downside to these boots is plastic buckles. They save alot of weight, but I am not sure how durable they will be long term.
  3. Are they as light as those fancy Sportiva Trango Ice's? Looks like you have to use rapid fix crampons on them?
  4. Looks like Trango just came out with a leashless tool that has interchangeable handles for leashless and leashed climbing. Swaps shafts like the CM pulsar. There is a pic of it in the new Rock and Ice. Looks kinda cool. They are usually less expensive than BD and CM. Don't think I could drill a hole in my Cobras. I've seen people use hose clamps to hold on pinky rests in the past.
  5. I've used the Voile with plate bindings, clickers, and regular strap bindings. For pure boarding, I liked the clickers the best. Faster transition times. I found using rigid boots with plate bindings too stiff for boarding. I suppose if you want to go warp 10, then they might be more suitable. The strap bindings work pretty nice with leather mountaineering boots. I used Sportiva K3's and supergaters with alot of success. That combo also rules if it gets to steep and you have to shoulder the board and walk. If I bought another board, I'd get the 195 length. Floatation and speed help alot getting over rolling terrain. It's really frustraiting to run out of gas before the next down spot and have to take of board to move 10 feet and put it back on. If you get the voile, carry an extra lock pin for the bindings. Dropping one of these in deep snow while transitioning will likely ruin your ski tour. I tried securing the clips with string to the bindings, so if I dropped one, it wouldn't be lost, but the string always got in the way, and slowed my transition time down (crucial if you are touring with skiers). I found it best to remove the pin and clip it immediately to the sternum strap on my pack. This works well if you leave your pack on during transition and just stuff the skins inside your jacket.
  6. I've used the Wild things belay jacket for ice climbing and liked it alot. It is all insulation with no useless features/weight. It packs down alot smaller than my old Lowe Alpine belay jacket (about the size of a sleeping bag stuff sack on my harness). The MEC belay jacket is also pretty good and has a dryloft shell for extra water resistance, but as mentioned before, is no longer made. Can't go wrong with the Patagonia model. I would have bought one of those if I had the extra $. I think Marmot also makes one too.
  7. [ 11-25-2002, 04:12 PM: Message edited by: Rainier Wolfscastle ]
  8. I think you can just buy the whippet shaft and a seperate lower section from BD. No need to buy another set of poles.
  9. I have been very satisfied with every MEC garment I have purchased. The quality is good, the prices are decent, and the designs are functional without un-needed frills. The only thing I don't like is the zipper pull on their jackets are on the other side (like a womens jacket). Not a big deal, just takes a little getting used too.
  10. My .02: The second door available on the I-tent improves ventilation signficantly. Cracking both doors allows air to flow right thru, thereby minimizing condensation. Not sure if ID offers this on their models.
  11. I have a Lowe Alpine Belay jacket for sale. I think it is a 2000 model. Size is mens medium. Very good condition. I only used it a few times. It has a big ass insulated hood for fitting over climbing helmet. $75 + shipping. PM me if interested. http://home1.gte.net/4mkempt/belay.jpg
  12. I have a pair of Five Ten UFOs for sale. Size 7. They are an older model but have seen maybe one or two uses only(see pics below). $30 + shipping. I also have a pair of five ten mocassyms size 8 with a brand new resole by Mekan (stealth rubber). $40 + shipping. I can provide pics if you are interested in these. PM me if interested. Thanks, Mike. http://home1.gte.net/4mkempt/ufo.jpg http://home1.gte.net/4mkempt/ufotoe.jpg
  13. If you order Fritschi 2's from Telemark P, they will wind up costing about $220 with shipping and customs charges (what my wife paid to get me a pair from them). Black Diamond and many other retailers were selling them for $169 this fall to be more competitive with the euro sites. I suspect you might be able find a pair if you call around. If you have seen the new mountain gear catalog, there is a Titanal 3 model now. Not sure how it is different. Also, if you ever do any mountaineering with ski approach, you may want to consider getting the Silveretta 500 instead, since it accepts mountaineering boots.
  14. Old Navy has some nice stuff. Trendy, yet affordable.
  15. If you know how to walk a long way and use an ice axe, you shouldn't need a guide.
  16. I used a Sony Cybershot DSC-75. I'm no photographer, but this thing seems to take good pictures anyway.
  17. For anyone who is interested, here are some digipics of my Cirque of the Towers climbing trip a few weeks ago. http://home1.gte.net/4mkempt/cirque2002.htm FYI: These pics are pretty big and will take a while to download if you are using a dial-up connection
  18. I think only 7.6mm twin rope is called Ice floss. I found a 8mm rope to be nice for glacier travel or simul-climbing on low 5th class stuff. Upside: LIGHT (less than 3lbs for 8mm X 30m), less rope drag, less impact force on shallow or weak gear placements which can make the difference in a placement holding or pulling out. Downside: 8mm is stretchy, you will fall further before stopping than a single rope and prehaps hit something or get flipped upside down with the longer fall. Edge cut resistance is poor, but this risk can be minimized by placing gear so the rope can't "saw" on a sharp edge in a fall. Prussiking a 8mm rope can be tough if you prussik material is close in diameter (6mm or 7mm). 5mm seems to work OK for me.
  19. Does the Princeton LED use those conductive foam strips for battery connections like their previous Vortex series lamps? Those strips compress after a while and loose contact with the batteries. Needless to say, the headlamp left me in the dark many times. I switched to Putzl after the second bad Princeton lamp.
  20. I saw a BD guy using these Last winter at Ouray. They looked pretty cool. I think this is BD's answer to the Quark. The aluminum shaft has more bend than the cobra, but a little less than the Quark. The head and pick is the same as cobra. The grip is a little smaller. Not sure about the aluminum shaft for me. I like the dampened swing feel of carbon fiber.
  21. Anyone have an extra one of these to sell? I lost mine (doh) Primus wants almost as much as a new stove to replace it. New, used, or inop (as long as it is repairable) Thanks, Mike.
  22. I have a pair and like them alot. I also have wide feet, and 5.10 ascents fit well in the toes and heel. I found sportiva to be loose in the heel with a tight fit in the toes. Ascents fit about the same as moccasyms (my personal favorite). The only bad thing about the ascents is the heel hooking ability. The funky padded design in the back doesn't hook that well in my opinion. Otherwise, they are great all around shoe. FYI:, some 5.10's shoe shapes are totally diffent, I bought a pair of 5.10 "rock socks" on ebay in my usual 5.10 size and couldn't even get them on. They were subtaintly narrower.
  23. how about http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/e_index.htm They have sportiva
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