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Gary_Yngve

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Everything posted by Gary_Yngve

  1. The companies got off easy for Bhopal. Why should they get nailed for a couple of animals?
  2. Gary_Yngve

    [TR] Tele

    I think a better analogy might be climbing a route w/ one hand down your pants.
  3. egregious gregarious would be the opposite of these men at the time, as they were each solo
  4. You don't make sense to me. Isn't the decision normally, to STOP the antagonist or not? The effective way of stopping someone is multiple shots at the center of mass. Maybe you can argue that he decided incorrectly or too early to STOP the antagonist, but I don't believe that we can contest the degree of his response.
  5. Sounds more like the kidney/urinary system is in charge, not the ass.
  6. More Jamin from NWHikers: I was trying to get some grip with my crampons before I actually went into the self-arrest position. It would be easy to stop yourself on any of those slopes.
  7. The French have a scale for grading alpine routes. It goes something like: F (easy) PD (less difficult) AD (more difficult) D (difficult) TD (very difficult) ED (extremely difficult), with +/- thrown in and numbers in the higher end. South Side of Hood is probably an F. The DC on Rainier is probably a PD. Liberty Ridge is probably a D. My guess is you've never climbed anything harder than PD, and Rainier might be your only PD? Liberty Ridge is a serious route, requiring a carryover of overnight gear for all but the fittest and most competent parties. Much of the climb would count as "no-fall" terrain, and retreat is unappetizing at best. Why don't you try other nordwands first before Lib Ridge? Like Cooper Spur, Adams Glacier, NF Shuksan, NF Buckner, NF Maude, etc.? Or other routes on Rainier like Kautz or Fuhrer Finger that have less commitment.
  8. Sweet! I recall when you were in Pakistan a few years ago, you had gotten frostnip earlier in the season on Andromeda Strain. Did the frostnip bother you on Nanga Parbat? Do you think the frostnip will affect your summer plans?
  9. Please don't try Liberty Ridge until you get a lot more experience.
  10. crap, i missed it because i was too busy to read CC.com yesterday. doh
  11. He's gradumatated from UW with a degree in ChemE, and he's headed to the Chamonix area for the next two months!
  12. I got a conference paper deadline tomorrow night, and I'm supposed to do my share of final exam grading before then. No fun for me.
  13. oh yeah. it rains ticks over there. you'll find some the next day too. really bad at SCW, not as bad elsewhere.
  14. In the case of Air Guitar, the bottom can be climbed at 5.9 using faceholds well within reach. Avoiding any facehold definitely makes it harder. Actually, I'll be a dork. The last time I was at Vantage, I speed-toproped Air Guitar, from both feet on ledge (not boulder) to slapping the chains in 1m37s. If anyone wants to play the game of trying to do it faster, it might be fun in the "Uncage the Soul" Colorado lamer sort of way.
  15. Why wouldn’t you use the face holds at the bottom? Why would a climber contrive it to be just the crack when other holds are within reach? why climb?
  16. I'd say 5.9 if you use face moves at the bottom. The "OW" move at the top is easier than the crux on Steel Grill.
  17. The noise from the nightclub doesn't bother me one bit. It's the afterparty in the streets at 2AM with gunfire that bothers me. As far as I'm aware, that's not standard fare for a nightclub.
  18. I think the easier face climbs at Vantage are pretty boring, jug jug jug. I think the harder ones are more interesting. Narlux (10c) is certainly not a straight-forward jugfest. The trad routes vary. The handcracks are usually not splitter with smooth walls inside, which to me, is not that aethetic (I only climb G&M to get to the top of Red M&Ms). I have high praises for Sensimilla (10c) and Steel Grill (5.9). Air Guitar is cool, but the jamming is too short. The first half of the route is basically a face climb, and there's one fist jam at the top. It's way easy for the grade. Bob's Your Uncle has a short but sweet 5.11a strenuous fingercrack/lieback at the top.
  19. I disagree on MOVE, but I'll probably move anyway within the next year. I recognize that I can't expect perfect peace and quiet living in the University District, but I think the noise and violence that has become all to frequent doesn't belong at all. Clearly the bar is making a fortune from selling booze, and it doesn't give a damn about the neighborhood going to hell. Things like obscure laws/ordinances, ways to take them to court, etc., are just what I'm looking for. Although I'd really love to have a water cannon mounted on the roof...
  20. I live across the street from Tommy's Nightclub in the U-District, and for the third time in the past year I believe, there were shots fired when over a hundred drunken thugs emptied out of the place Sunday night. The same clientele is also responsible for what my roommate believes was an attempted rape, countless fistfights, and regular loitering and noise-making in the wee hours of the morning. What can I legally do? My opinion is that if their clientele are that out of control after they close for the night, and they are unwilling are unable to reduce the noise and violence, then they should be shut down. (For that matter, I don't think it's any local U-District residents who are attending.) We've called the police, we've talked with the apartment manager, we've posted notes in the elevator to get more residents to call in and complain, we've talked with Tommy's, etc. I spent half of yesterday writing letters to City Council and TheDaily. What to do next? I'm still trying to find a way to let UW parents hear about it. Civil lawsuit?
  21. Woah, that's some crazy focus on Hotel Supramonte... super-narrow depth of field... but the math's not working out for how wide the aperture would have to be given the distance from the subject. Postprocess?
  22. Yeah, I'd suspect the last pitch may be snow on slab? And you'd need boots for the walkoff? Much nicer for cragging when the snow's gone.
  23. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/304091/page/0/fpart/1 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/520915/page/0/fpart/1 SpecialEd flaming the pebble-wrestling pics in the original thread, with Distel getting all defensive, was classic.
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