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Everything posted by HernyG

  1. [TR] Mt Baker - North Ridge 4/19/2015

    The standard route (Easton Glacier) has some cracks by early summer. On the decent are you following some boot track figuring if they did not fall in you won't either? Or is it the early season idea, everything is filled in with snow? The old watch for depressions bit? There is no judgement on my part, I have been skiing more places of late and trying to understand the decisions. And I had a trip to Alaska where recent snow made cravase detection very difficult; everything was smooth until sticking a snowshoe through.
  2. Previous experience on other trade route climbs, Lib. Ridge, Stuart North Ridge, etc., when you usually wind up with a bit of extra food doesn’t mean crap when you go into the Pickets. A 45 mile trip through the Pickets will teach a trade route climber many things. For one, Trails are Aid! However I still would not have wanted to carry too much more food given the mileage and our intent to climb Fury N.B. One other thing, I look like a dork in these photos. Oh well, I at least damn well enjoyed this trip and look forward to finishing a north route on Fury or training up for Sleese. Always looking over to that next rise…
  3. Do you feel this in America?

    The Americans that don't have already moved north or are on perpetual holiday in Denmark.
  4. Electoral Map

    Point of Clarification. Chicago is a true blue island in the middle of a red sea: 81.6% for Kerry with a 77% voter turnout, nearly matching Manhattan and Bronx counties, New York. The map does not appear to have colored a few locations, including Miami. ...for whatever that's worth...
  5. 4 more years of...

  6. Liberty Ridge Climber Injured

    This one hurts (don't they all?). Peace to Peter's family of course, and also to Scott - we too know that passion.
  7. Stuart N. Ridge question

    Our party just did the ridge on Aug. 8th - here is the current water scoop. There is obviously water at Ingals lake, about an hour or two before the notch. There is also obviously snow on the Stuart Glacier that can be melted just before entering the couloir to the notch (a micro light stove and fuel can be lighter than water). At the notch bivy, there is a small lump of snow on the opposite side, in the descent couloir to the Ice Cliff glacier. After that, there is no easily accessible snow on the ridge itself until a small patch or two a couple hundred feet below the summit, one pitch after taking the rap to bypass the Gendarme - if you take that variation. In the Cascadian Couloir, on decent, there is a snow field. Surface water is also available at the creek before heading up Longs Pass. Without a stove, or time and sunlight to melt the minimal snow left on the ridge, there may be no water available between Ingals lake and the creek - in other words, nearly the whole climb.
  8. Headlamp review

    Three pages on headlamps?
  9. Bivvy sack question

    Any comments on the REI (Capitalist Pig - see another thread) Minimalist Bivy? There is not much out there in the outdoorgearreview.com world about this cheap and light sack.
  10. Mountain Porn for Midnight

    Ok, you twisted my arm, I'll replace the High "E" (Gunks) photo on my desktop for this.
  11. I can walk!

    Mike, I was on crutches for four months - ice hockey accident. Anyway, check out the Chicago River Canoe and Kayak rentals, on the river just south of Addison. It is about 3 hours roundtrip to the Sears Tower and back. Sure the river smells like shit, but it's an interesting run.
  12. TR: Stuart West Ridge (7 Jun 2003)

    Wow - thanks for the extra information guys! There is a lot there to digest. Over the years, I've actually found these planning decisions to be part of the fun of mountaineering. Such as how much to have along, for instance.
  13. TR: Stuart West Ridge (7 Jun 2003)

    You are not missing anything, I've just not completely timed out the route via the map & guidebook yet. But my first read through the guide book says "most people will not do the route in one-day." Hence the conideration of the bivy site. But perhaps the guide merly implies most will not do the route car-to-car in a day, and that one simple bivies at the toe of the ridge the night before.
  14. TR: Stuart West Ridge (7 Jun 2003)

    Thank guys. I've not had to bivy-sac before, always doing either one-day climbs or multiday trips were I could find a place for a small tent. I guess I borrow or find a cheap sac on ebay or something.
  15. Liberty Ridge Pics

    You know, all you people that depart Thumb Rock 4 hours before the crack of dawn mostly miss seeing the wonderful 5000 feet of exposure above the Carbon. Accidentally over sleep! Then be the last party to leave Thumb Rock at 7 AM or so, and see what a fantastic climb the ridge is during the daylight. The shrud looks quite a bit different than last year.
  16. TR: Stuart West Ridge (7 Jun 2003)

    So, since folks are asking about the north ridge, can the bivy site below the gendarme accommodate a Bibler I-tent? And ya, ya, light and fast; but two bivy sacks and extra layers for two people = I-tent. And I am not saying that's what our party will carry. Thanks in advance for a response.
  17. Are we no longer recognizing mere milestones like a 5000th post? The jumping sheep has 5001 posts under it as of 10:30AM today. Way to go eriK! From all the lurkers, thanks for your help.
  18. EriK and his jump roping sheep passes 5000!

    Actually, I did fuck up the spelling of my name - Henry. Really I just mistyped when registering. HernyG sounds like a rap star, which would make me seem cooler than I really am. So I have not bothered to fix it.
  19. Mt. Stuart permit question

    Oh yeah! Outlaw climbing, I'm excited. AOC and I were too exceedingly legal last year, actually showing up on our permitted day at Thumb Rock (Rainer). Who the hell ever does that?! This years trip we'll wind up in the Deforest service slammer in WallaWalla, Washington...
  20. 2002 SAR Reports

    Ironic is the human emotion that occurs to me when I reflect back on the five glorious days of climbing and lounging that my party enjoyed between the May 29th and June 5th tragedies. On our leisure hike up Liberty Ridge we experienced no wind, not one cloud above us, and even camped on the Summit Col, in part because of the unusually nice weather. But just a few days earlier or later, people were battling the elements, and losing. I know the mountain and the weather does not know the emotion ironic. And I can't say that it was because my party patiently waited for a weather window. We were just lucky East Coasters who happened to fly United Airlines into Seattle on May 29, and depart June 5th.
  21. Any one here ever climbed/hiked in Gran Sasso Park, Italy? Anybody ever do a via ferreta climb in Italy solo? Perhaps that guy from Italy posting on this web site lately might answer. My wife's friend is marrying an Italian from the Abruzzi region and we are going over at the end of August. Unfortunately, I will not have a climbing partner. So I am looking at just a couple of day-trips solo. If you have some information or suggestions, thank you. Otherwise I'll continue to troll around the internet for info or just show and hike up something like I've done at other places in the past. I'll let you guys know if it was fun. It is only 50km outside Rome; if you are ever going to Italy it looks like it should be on your list. (Beer and White Castles, always an East Coast Favorite).
  22. Annoyed with the french?

    I read much of the Frontline perspective on the Bush Doctrine with utter disgust! And I am a sickened by the relatively strong war support form my fellow countrymen. September 11th made clear that a new world organization is likely necessary. That event indicates people are preemptively willing to kill each other on a massive scale. Since nations and even small groups can significantly threaten the security of many, national boundaries are no longer to be respected as they once where. Due to weapons of mass destruction and the willingness to use them, every countries activities are now of interest to the security, ultimately, of the human race. However, prior to adopting a preemptive military strategy, could human kind not have first at least proposed a system of strict non-support of regimes that threaten or harbor groups that may threaten mass attacks. This proposal is similar in concept to cancer treatment; complete starvation of the cancerous cell, or a nation in this case. If debated and accepted among the international community, no weapons, economic trade, or perhaps even food would be provided to dangerous regimes. Strict non-support can force regime change if supported by the entire world community. A picture of this policy in Iraq, presuming we accept that they are working with known terrorists, would be no-food-for-oil trade with the EU, no weapons from North Korea, etc. It is quite possible that this scheme will fail, just as it quite possible that the enemies of the US eventually will bog us down in a slugfest as we move from preemptive war to preemptive war. At worst, the Bush Doctrine, though I concede that it may succeed, may also lead more quickly to nuclear trade of the worst kind with North Korea. Forget the volcanoes, Seattle has new nuclear ballistic missile threat. Since we are talking about no longer respecting national boundaries, the place to discuss strict-no-support or a preemptive military option is within our world governing body, the United Nation in New York. I think the French, though not a military might, are an academic people and are arguing that the United Nations has relevance is this global governance philosophy change.
  23. freshiez are falling outside my window

    Although I mostly climb in the Northeast, with all the Neice stuff invading this web site?
  24. Cellular Phone Service

    Chilly, What happens when you get paged six hours out from the car? Are you dealing horsecock, is that why you would still be on call in the BC? No crap ment by this post... just an observation.

    Any stage in the alps after 15 stages of the Tour-de-France must take the prize for the most serious road-bike challange. [ 07-24-2002, 12:13 PM: Message edited by: HernyG ]