Bug

Every climber is responsible for themselves. That is the first thing I try to get people to understand. Good belays are part of not ending up having to descend by yourself. Teamwork is essential. Trusting someone else with your life is not a good idea. You have to read, listen, experiment in a safe environment and branch out as you feel competent. Regardless of where you learn, you have to keep your own responsibilities in the fore.

I was raised in Montana in the 60's and 70's. Hunting was something we all did from age 12. In order to do it, we were required to take hunter's safety. They always showed a long series of graphic slides of gunshot wounds. There was the shotgun to the face, the 30 06 through the chest, the 44mag in the gut and soforth. Made you think that it was a serious thing. Anyone know if they still show those pics? Or are kids too sheltered from psycological damages? Unless of course, they are watching tv. Sad story. My condolences to the family and friends of the victim.

How are the bugs? Bad/really bad/endless swarms/just don't go.

There's also such a thing as grumpy old men.

That's the way I remember her from the bbq a couple years ago. Course, she had a sausage in her hand then.

But don't you think that from your post to "read a frickin book" it might be easy to infer that you do not want people asking questions on this site? Asking quqestions on the newbies forum is what the newbies forum is for. If you don't want to read newbie questions, "GO READ A FRICKIN BOOK" instead. That's not rocket science either.

No spray in the Newbies section please.

Got to 13K Sat but had to turn back due to one member coughing his lungs out. Camped at 12k as his coughing had stopped. Nice stars and cool camp site. Temps were at 20-25 plus gusty winds to 30mph. The route was still in great shape. Enjoy.

Good luck with that. I'm guessing you'll be talking to the hand.

Hope you didn't chunk up like I did. Get well.

Sweet memories........ One of my first leads.

Yes. I have seen some European techniques that seemed deadly to me. Way underwhelming at best. Did you complain to the school? You should.

Mikester and Halifax...... Go have a look.

On the other hand... "....I have an old reference that says an "average" granite has a density of about 166.5 lb. per cubic foot, or about 2.6 times what the same volume of water would weigh." As I remember, that block at the top of R&D is about 4x4x3 which makes it 48 cubic ft or 7992 lbs.

Climbing with Wayne is aid. Nice tr! Thanks.

My OPINIONS follow. On-course no discussion of care of ropes Basic course should focus on safety while on the rock. no discussion of proper helmet wearing (with predictable results)Deserves a brief overview. instructors routinely standing on climbing ropes. BAD form. knots not checked for neatness after first day. Bad idea. I check my partners' knots and visa versa every time. asst. instructor has just two years of climbing experience. Asst = OK imo asst. instructor not anchored on exposed ledge while monitoring 50 metre vertical rappel. Bad form. Some tie in is needed for example if nothing else. students expected to pass asst. instructor to the outside in order to tie into rappel (more exposed than asst.)Untied? VERY BAD. only back-up on rappel for beginners is a prussik, briefly intro'd. No belay on rappel. Pretty standard as long as the prussick is checked. no real checking of harnesses after first day. Every member of the team should be checked by someone else every time. course elements as marketed not covered on-course (planning multi-day objective, mountain navigation, etc.)These are advanced topics. I find that if you lecture too much, they start loosing details. Some of those lost details could be life threatening. As an instructor, you have to play that by ear with each group and see what else they may or may not digest.

Yes, but can you text while leading?

Flame on. Have you heard of Darwin? Sorry. I know this could happen again and again but I have not seen or heard of it before. I guess I wouldn't rantt and rave since it is a classic newbie route but my opinion is that the bolts are not needed.

Hey Noah, I hope I came accross as curious and not anything else. You clearly reacted well and got the rescue moving very quickly. Cheers!

Impressive story by all. Where did you go to to get cell coverage? I always get good cell reception from the summits of Colchuck and Dragontail with AT&T. Anyone know of any other spots up there for cell coverage? Might be useful info sometime.

Can't feel it. ............................................ Nope still can't. Must be because I am leaving at noon to climb the Emmons with my daughter. Spray on.

Oh sorry. I forgot. FO.

That's "Schtick".

What's for dinner honey?

FO