Bug

None taken. A little humor is all I ask. Allow for some mistakes to be made. Most of us come here for information. I never trust one source alone. Sometimes I have a shot to go with it.

Ahh. This is like a trip down memory lane. Except I forgot the address 15 years ago. I've been climbing for 30 years+ and still get pissed at some of these sniveling little pricks on cc.com too. Then I find myself posting responses and feel like having a cigarette. Can someone tell me what is happening to me?

"Me too, so buy me (us) a beer. " Anyone who stomps a path up Gib Ledges deserves a beer. Unfortunately, your timing was off. In truth, I would rather feel like the first one up anyway. Following tracks up a big mountain is like putting on someone else's pants when they are still warm. to you both.

Why don't you go up the Gib Ledges route and stomp me a path instead? I would certainly buy you a beer.

Deep breathing will help with solving almost any problem. Use your stomach muscles and get full even breathes. Find the equilibrium between getting too much air and not enough. Practice in various situations to establish a feel for how much to adjust your breathing rate. Feel your entire body. Focus on a immediate goal and move without over-thinking the process. There have been many times that I have done moves that I could not remember immediately afterward. Allow the rock to lead.

If it's your hat I found, you will know what kind and color. PM me. Bug

Roid bullets. If you got em and you need em yur golden. Otherwise yur ass'l swing lower than your dick. Pepto Bismal tabs. You'll go thru a couple dozen for one poorly washed fork. Variety in candy. Don't short yourself on Snickers. Luv gluv. Keep em warm. Keep em handy.

A fine TR. I will use your info this March15-17. It will be the same and different.

I am interested in some of the gear. Mostly the Petzel ascenders. How much? where are you?

There was a guy who hung out in JT for a couple winters who went by the name of Malcolm. He had a tendency to over state a bit but had a great story about how he lost his testicles. Apparently he was belaying a friend who dislodged a large block that descended in Malcom's general direction. After some futile manuevers, Malcolm found himself pinned against a wall by said large block. It took a few stitches to put him back together - more or less. He was frequently claiming he was willing to take large wingers so I steered ,er that's steared clear of him. One night around the lonely JT campfire, two half pretty females showed up. We were all mentally preparing our pickup lines when Malcolm beat us to the punch. It went something like "Don't worry about me. I lost both testicles in a climbing accident so all I want to do is look". They looked pretty nervous after that and were gone soon thereafter. Thanks Malcolm.

My "due time" for my wife's info is 24hrs after I expect to return. That mailman doesn't hang around anymore.

I am putting together a trip to climb Orizaba. Does anyone have any books they recommend or beta or other sources of beta?

quote: Originally posted by pope: Wow....swell to see everybody has been taking it nice and easy. Did anybody climb anything hard? Curious dirth of info. Not a good year for me. Just made money. Finally getting those pics digitized. Coupla good ones. I'll send you a CD. I'm looking at 2004. Top 5. Davis Holland rt.(10b,A1 PPHHHT) Soloed WR Prussick(If you bring bivy gear you will bivy). GM with a first time climber. Ballard Evringham rt (Blodgett) Shoshone (Blodgett) Most dissappointing. Backing off Denali from 17000.

Fresh out of Hellgate High School in Missoula Montana, I headed for Alaska to make my fortune fishing. Never mind the thai stick in the MG and the sharp curves on the Fraser river gorge or the pit bull with a mission-getting my ass out of his White Horse, nor the feds at the Alaska border who were certain they could find a roach somewhere on me (there was one place they didn't look). I'm talkin fishin the high seas the first time I was on the ocean. My first warning should have been the fact that the skipper was willing to hire me. I was big, muscular, and pretty hairy so I blended into Homer pretty well. The rest was mostly lies, beer and a lot of persistence on the docks. The boat was a sixty-four foot steel hull hulk with hardly anything on it that worked. We stalled so many times on the way out it was tomorrow night when we started fishing-so to speak. The previous crew up n quit. No notice or nuthin. Go figr. We were me, 18, and green- Pukin my guts out the whole time, John the writer who had "been commercial fishin once before several years ago", and the deck foreman who use to be the new guy. The skipper was a young guy about 30 or so and didn't much care for gettin to know us. He steered and did mechanics on the deisel. We ate the food he provided, coke and snikers bars. The water in the tank was rancid. By the time we were out to where the pots were the storm was too. Out of the whole day there were only about five hours of darkness and we timed it perfect. Only one deck light worked so there were lots of shadows mixed in amoungst the holes in the deck. The deck foreman gave us a quick lesson on how to pull a pot and we pulled around to get the beginning of a line of 26 pots. The line was diagonal across ten foot swells. As we passed the first buoy, he tossed the hook out across the line and started reeling. It was 60 fathoms so the coil got big fast. When the pot came up over the gunwail we hit the bottom of a trough and the boat lurched to the port. The pot flew into space over the deck as we topped the swell and lurched to the starboard. King crab pots are big. They weigh about 500 pounds and are constructed of two and a half inch rebar about five and a half by five and a half. This pot descended out of the darkness at about 25 MPH. It hit the deck broadside and careened into the gunwail right where I was standing. I dove to the stern as John dove to the bow. The pot bounced off the gunwail and the cabin and was still moving fast when it headed back my way. I jumped to the boom and grabbed the cold slimy steel with all the gusto of a desperate man. The pot came to a stop right under me. I puked again. We didn't make any more mistakes that night. The boat sunk the following winter. My heart goes out to the families of the four who perished.

Stefan. You said it was a fluke. I respectfully disagree. You made a mistake my friend. Don't do it the same way ever again. I have done the same. I continue to climb with that knowledge burning into the back of my head. I never take anything for granted. No found sling is safe without a thorough inspection. No found achor, etc... You and I were lucky and survived. I am sorry you have such a bad injury. Not all my friends have survived this sport. I hope your injuries heal quickly and your pride can handle the truth. You have to change something.

I have a pair of FF down pants (front point). Retail 325. Will sell for 200. worn a few times to lounge in. Perfect condition. Size large. They know the way to Denali.

There are a lot of bone issues I have not experienced that you will get to go through but here is something you might try; Glycosamine and MSN. What does everyone else think about this stuff? It has made my old joints feel much better.

Well blister me buttocks! That sucks. Do what the doctor says and get on some physical therapy program. You have to fight the scar tissue build up. Vitamin E and B12 will help as well as an anti-inflamatory. Get well soon.

When I climb Air Guitar again, I will still think of it as Air Guitar. Whenever I thought about Everest in the last couple years, I thought about that guy who rode his bike there and back. Now I will remember his name. When Marvin died in the Black Ice couliour 20 years ago, some of us piled some rocks at the top of an out of the way route he had put up in Kootenai canyon. The last time I was there, it was too. If I die climbing, all I ask is that you don't go out of your way to spit on my grave. Most likely I will die of old age in a soft bed with Dark Side of the Moon playing one more time.... I wish you all the same.

You all suck. Thank you for listening. My only complaint is that the first time I flamed someone back he whimped out and pretended he was trying to be nice. A flame is a flame. The internet is the internet. The days of party lines are over. Deal with it. Don't get me wrong. Positive posts are great. I read some of them. TR's are even better. But free association brain farts in public are what make this site truely inspirational. Do some sifting and you will see some stuff you won't see anywhere else. Just don't tell your mother.

You all suck. Thank you for listening. My only complaint is that the first time I flamed someone back he whimped out and pretended he was trying to be nice. A flame is a flame. The internet is the internet. The days of party lines are over. Deal with it. Don't get me wrong. Positive posts are great. I read some of them. TR's are even better. But free association brain farts in public are what make this site truely inspirational. Do some sifting and you will see some stuff you won't see anywhere else. Just don't tell your mother.

Nope. Failed miserably. And conditions could not have been better. Just shoot me. Avoid my mistakes. Ski. Some low lifes have been known to remove their bindings at the base of the couliour and jetison their skiis into a crevass. This is just information. Go light. 200lbs for three of us was too much. Be in great shape. One member was too weak and we had to back out of the NE Fork. You have to move fast through the valley of death to avoid those pesky avalanches. Be ready to free-solo 60 degree snow and ice with a heavy pack. This eliminates having too many ropes. Or go heavy. fix the couliour. Hump the death zone in, out, in to ferry loads. http://www.aeic.alaska.edu/Input/affiliated/mcnamara/westrib.html

quote: Originally posted by E-rock: Bug, check your PM's Point taken. I soften my approach and hope we can all maintain a sense of balance.

Several years ago I was climbing in the Wind river range for a month until a storm kicked us out. We drove over to Devil's tower to catch the sunshine. After a month on granite, placing gear everywhere and constantly, I was feeling pretty damn confident. That basalt on the tower just spit pieces out into my face over and over. It was worse than nerve racking. Basalt is a much finer grain than granite and therefor demands a much better placement. A parallel crack in basalt is far less likely to be safe to protect than a parallel crack in granite. Friction factors are everything if you do not have a narrowed down part of the crack to place in (or right above the narrow point). The description of the gear suggests to me that everything worked as well as it could and just didn't have enough friction to hold a fall before it got to the edge of the crack. On basalt, place deep if you can't find a bottleneck. Always use flexible draws to allow the rope to run without walking the piece. Don't try to learn how to lead trad on basalt. Sorry if I offend anyone. My heart goes out to Erden and everyone close to those involved.

This guy needs a hobby.