Bug

How about the west ridge of Stuart from the Ingalls parking lot? I would prefer the 22nd if that works.

I got a crowbar for father's day. I'm going to Leavenworth this weekend. Anyone have a hit list?

Paarteee. Partee.Partee.

"I'm doing my part! On Tuesday I started teaching my 6 year old to place gear. I'd get him into a stance about a foot off the ground, have him place some protection, attach a quickdraw between the placement and his harness, and then spot him as he weighted it. Once he got the hang of it, I couldn't get him to stop! Meanwhile, my 3 year old ran around with a helmet and a loaded gear sling made from a runner thrown over his shoulder." Cool. Yeah. I gave my 6 yr old a drill and showed her how to set up a 3/8" bolt grid around a crack. She calls it "Daddy's ethics game". We were just over in Leavenworth the other day.

Actually, I was hoping for a little flame action there. OK try this. If you own a drill, you are the problem. You can bolt faster than your nuerons can fire. Think morons! Your irresponsible, wanton bolting only inflames those of us who sometimes think about getting the crowbar out but usually don't.

Check. The screws would only be for the Colchuck glacier if it is frozen and hard. A newbie on ice could end up like the recent tragedies on Rainier. A running belay or two could be a life saver and at least make the trip a little more relaxed.

I have an REI 3-4 season tent I'd sell you for $125. http://www.rei.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=8000&prrfnbr=9320651. It's 2 years old but has only been used four times. I replaced it with a three man tent when my daughters got longer. PM me if you are interested.

Colchuck lake. Then do Dragontail by either Asgar pass or the colchuck glacier. Or do Colchuck pk which would be the easiest. These are hikes with some scrambling. The glacier is small but can be frozen and hard. Take screws if you do it just to be sure. Or if you want rock climbing, do Ingalls pk.

Why do their cowboys yell "Woopie Ty Yi Yeah!!!"? Is that a condiment?

What are doggies for?

Feathered Friends Front Point Down pants. Retail for $325 asking $200. Worn 6 times. Purple haze overboots. Sold. OR gorrilla face mask sold. Cassin Flame Ice ax. $50 unused. Cassin third tool sold. Moonstone bag liner polarguard 3D. $30. Chouinard vapor barrier liner $20. sz medium. Climbing Denali guidebook. sold.

Descend past the horn then cut hard left for a long steep glissade. My guess is we were doin 30.

Thanks for the TR! I love the Tooth on a rainy day. Now I know what is behind that next fog bank.

There is nothing to discuss. The reason exists only in the here and now. I was there only then. Now I have only words to fragment a knowledge that becomes more obscure with every sentence..................................................... Quick. Somebody flush!

Sorry, That third tool is Grivel http://www.mgear.com/pages/product/product.asp?level1_id=0&level2_id=0&level3_id=0&item=625220&level2_title= The Flame is shown here => http://www.climbaxe.com/mountaineering_axes/mountaineering_axes.html

Feathered Friends Down pants. Retail for $325 asking $200. Worn 6 times. Purple haze overboots. $40. Excellent condition. OR gorrilla face mask $30. unused. Cassin Flame Ice ax. $50 unused. Cassin third tool (hammer/pick) $45. unused. Moonstone bag liner polarguard 3D. $30. Chouinard vapor barrier liner $20. sz medium. Vapor barrier liner $20. sz Large. Climbing Denali guidebook. $15.

Take ski lessons. Otherwise you are trying to learn how to fly from an earth worm. I went downhill on long skinny boards for ten years. Then one day I took a lesson and learned how to ski. Don't fight it. You will only suffer longer.

We had 8 days of clear weather on the WB. Still didn't summit. HAPE got one of my team 17K. We also had some disputes in leadership, or was it a lack thereof? Any way, we didn't see any troughs or knee deep snow with MSR's. In fact we walked most of the way out in boots. It was stupid to not take skiis. I'd write a full TR but it would be all whinning about the one that got away. Mid May was the time to go this year. Traveling at night was important as it was blistering on the Kahiltna from 11 to 4. Much better colors at night too. Saw some 0 and maybe a few -10 nights but mostly luke warm. A couple times the temps dropped to -20 or -30 with a wind chill but that was gusty. Denali pass and higher got hit with some high winds but even those didn't last all day. One night I was packed and ready to solo the Rib from 14 but a linticular was over the summit at midnight so I went back to bed. Should have gone for it. Some Koreans summitted in mild winds at 3PM that afternoon. Best advice from Bug; go with people you know. I'm glad I went though. It's a huge place.

One thing I never speculate about is wether or not a gust of wind might pop up and blow away my stuff. I always assume it will happen and stake down my gear with a picket or two. I would speculate that these poor people might have benefitted from such an assumption. My guess is that his boot blew away in the tent. Then again, I have seen head sized rocks get rolled at the base of Castleton tower by a gust of wind. He could even have been trying to put it on when it blew away. Whatever the case, if anything good can come from this sort of thing, it is the opportunity to learn from those mistakes and passing that knowledge along.

For the inexperienced, the bottom of Disappointment Cleaver will seem very exposed. No vertical but very steep down to a vertical drop. It will probably scare him. But RMI will have you well secured. Give it a try.

quote: Originally posted by jobe: What kind of gloves do you have? size? BD pile gloves with gortex shell and Moonstone ice mitts with the separate index finger. But they ended up in NY with one of the other climbers I went with. He will be sending them back soon I hope.

I have everything you need to climb Denali. Will sell most of it at good prices. PM me for specifics.

What I don't understand is why you didn't take shoes and do the gendarm. That is one of my favorite pitches. Good climbing Colin!

Monkeywrench.

If it doesn't burn oil, eat oil, or drink oil, we have to find some other way to squeeze money out of it. We are the government. We are here to help.