jordop

Goin with Fern Redoubt NE face Dunno if DP did Redoubt, but I wouldn't have put it past him

From an account of the 2nd ascent of the Sw butt. of the N. Peak in the 98 BCM by Don McPherson: "...The rope is placed behind several fairly solid , short flakes. I belay from 1 cheek [sic] and 1 good foothold..." "...a 3m wide gully capped by a huge roof with rotten vertical walls on all sides..." Yeah, I'm all over it, keep away all of you!

quote: I climbed all your alpine 'projects" last year but did not report themYeah, everything up here is totally climbed out, so I'd better just take off further north and take up "the next challange" or whatever it was Dru, you may have climbed them, but I'll report it ad nauseum, publish pics in the co-op catalogue, the CAJ, the BCM, give a slide show at the ANZA club, sell t-shirts to Japanese tourists on the Icefields Parkway, start a guiding company that exclusively guides jordo's lines, publish a self help book on how to make millions through publishing self help books, and further commercialize, market and commodify a chunk of bushy, mossy choss! [ 06-10-2002, 02:24 PM: Message edited by: jordop ]

quote: Mine are usually c:Lazy but sometimes I am guilty of that too Seen in a shop window in Abbotsford on Sunday: "Laziness is just taking a break before you get tired!" Dem Abbotsferians sure is some smartunS!

My so called climbing partners are a. moving, b. "mountain" biking, or c. lazy. Need some fresh blood for some black book "projects" for the next two weekends. I've got Fridays off for a while, so anybody with some time to kill and a hankerin to do some out of the way alpine multi pitchin, give me some PM!

Hozomeen is completely climbed out. You'd be better off to go where no one has climbed before and take up "the real challenge."

Foo is so smart, he knows what I am thinking before it ever enters my mind. I'm thinking that you're thinking that I'm thinking about bolts. Lots of 'em.

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Man, it's all toof!

N face still unclimbed. . . .

Light up at Muir

When the hell is the serl burger being served anyway? I'm still waiting for late fall/early winter 2000 to roll around.

Parodoxically, it's development within already developed areas that gets the most news and appreciation. It's the plucking of the last plumb lines that get the most tongue wagging. Climbers are just as much social beings as anyone and require constatnt approval and comparison. I recall a description by Geroge Bell of an anonymous drifter who climbed crazy shit in PNW by himself w/o ever recording it. Sounded pretty damn lonely. The trick is to court civilization and development, like some Hamsunian Lapp hunter

Gunsight, eh Dru? (or In-SHUCK-ch now I guess?) Thought the rock was bad according to Fairley. Big N Face though?

Before this thread completely dissolves into a galley of eighties electronic disco bands . . . Yeah, I'd agree with the sentiment of needing to move beyond the sense of accomplishment, but more in the sense of egotism. I know I used to operate on a continual scale of measuring up, and still do, but have really recently tried to appreciate the little crap. Having failed now for two weekends in a row on nasty approaches to the same damn Peak XXXX, I now see the need to find different ways of evaluation. Either that or I'm gona have to become an alcoholic . . . You really can't find much happiness in a square kilometre of slide alder It's the curse/joy of mountpaineering; guaranteed outcomes have become lame for me.

What ever happened to the attempt to put up a moderate multi pitch in the area of the Dihedrals/Crap Crags? I'm not thinking of the DeMenech/Maddaloni 12d nightmare; I could've sworn I heard about another. Or am I just smoking crack on this one? This is what Squamish needs! I sure hope Wild is getting kickbacks from the tourist bureau or the chamber of commerce, cause Peasants Route and the new Echelon thing are easing the pressure on the the moderate classics we all know and love. [ 06-03-2002, 09:59 PM: Message edited by: jordop ]

[ 05-30-2002, 02:24 PM: Message edited by: jordop ]

Last time I checked, Stawamus/Indian FSR is closed (two weeks ago).

What is that like four people in a week fall victim to Volcano Syndrome? Jesus people, slots are those blue lines that run across the slopes. This is why you should be skiing the damn things! [ 05-30-2002, 02:21 PM: Message edited by: jordop ]

Ah, what can I add to K's TR? Some highlights: 1. The unfortunate gentlemen setting out for a traverse of the Spearheads with SEVEN days food. 2. Finding a brand new Lexan shovel atop one of the Musical Bumps, but then getting an attack of the Karmas and leaving it for the poor snowboarder who lost it there. 3. Trying to eat burritos in a howling wind and snow storm on the McBride Glacier 4. Sitting atop the Gatekeeper wonderinf where the hell we were only to have the skies part Biblically to endow us with one of the most awesome runs down into Wolverine Pass. 5. The north ridge and west face of Pitt. Huge. 6. Incredible Garibaldi granite. The southeast face of Davidson (2 Spagnut routes I think) is awesome. Kicking myself for not bringing a pair of slippers and some nuts for the Minute Hand; if this were anywhere near a road, it would be swarmed worse than Diedre! Looks a lot like Eichorn Pinnacle on Cathedral in the Sierras, if you've ever seen it. 7. Crosscut Ridge, say no more. 8. Oh, and, of course, seeing Capt. start on his third pitcher by the time I left the Brewpub! [ 05-20-2002, 06:25 PM: Message edited by: jordop ]

A good tip for doing long traverses: put beer in the cars at both ends, but make sure the beer at the finish is better than the beer at the start so that there's incentive to finish the damn thing and not bail and go back to Whistler for all the hot tub girls! Anybody know what the deal was with Fred walking back along the highway into Squamish north of Alice Lake with a large, stupid hat on?

apparently I've been drinking

There's tonnes of the white stuff up here

There's tonnes of the white stuff up here

General Tips I have gleaned which you probably already know: Schnapps is the cheapest booze in the store, don't clog up the drain in Camp 4 with leftovers like some dicks do, "borrow" towels from the lodge and bathe in the river that follows down by Manure Pile (or if that is a little too destructive, just steal showers from Curry when the stoner on duty leaves for a smoke), bring an extra set of plates for your car and just rotate them every two weeks so you can stay forever in camp 4, get up early, go to bed early, get some language lessons around the campfires (camp 4 is like the UN of the climbing world!), go to a library and find an old copy of an early edition of Yosemite Climbs because the new ones have many climbs around the falls (Guiding Light) and the horse trails delisted under pressure from Parks, earn money with some green, driving to climbs will suck up gas, use the damn bus and act dranged in front of the Tourons.