jordop

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Hmmm . . . you could do some ice fishing up there on a ski trip. Cut the hole with an avi saw. Nothing like scotch and trout. Yumm!

"chicken soup for the climbers soul" = After cruishing an ankle in Smith that still leaves me occaisionally gimped, I have found that actually forcing yourself to fall on gear (on easy routes, which you know is going to hold) can restore a bit of confidence.

Too bad the rock really sucks up there

Almost as bad as GOING TO THE CO-OP ON A SUNNY SUNDAY, eh Dru?

I had this epic bouldering one time. Nuff said.

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Routes that appear to offer worthwhile climbs but for reasons of lack of info, poor access, or just plain lack of space were neglected in McLane's guide: NE butress of North Illusion, E ridge of MacDonald, S face of Northgraves, LDB near Slesse, the four or five large Kobus Barnard routes on Judge Howay, W face of Blanshard, E ridge of Needle, N buttress of Reh (AlpineK knows what I'm 'talkin bout here ), NE butress of Urquart, and that's just rock routes in the vicinity of the Fraser Valley! Have fun and report back!

Check out the 2002 CAJ for an article by Serl with route info on these peaks.

If I told you I'd have to kill you . . .

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What's the dingage ($) to get into the Sir D area up to these days? Something like 10$/day for the car and 6$/day fer the head? Too broke. May have to climb elsewhere in Aug. Partner is calling it the welfare road trip! Dru get some good pics of Bess Regina!

I believe that may well be one of the few repeats of the climbs Dru put up there. Friends who attempted Lillarete found "bad" rock as well and gave up. Why'd ya choose Moonraker? Other lines look a bit more aesthetic, no?

quote: Local climber John Howe has said that up here, "The trees are winning." Funny, I heard Anders Ourom say, "the moss is winning". Trees are fine and are relatively easy to deal with. Moss is an insidious nightmare endemic to PNW; it can creep back in a week of rain and reclaim all your best efforts of cleaning. Napalm the Chief!

New route just put up on Mt. Dione by Connie Amelunxen and Jamie Chong, "West Buttress Direct". 16 pitches, 10c, 700m. The HUGE face left (west) of the Zwecker/Spagnut and Serl/Fowraker/Ourom lines. Topo in MEC route book. Frickin big!

Gimli 'gettin busy; three parties on a weekday last week when I was there

quote: Originally posted by Rat: any info on road conditions? i haven't been able to reach canfor since we gutted their timber industry. That's cause theyre only answering the phone for Canucks after what you bastards did!

That's the trouble with asking for beta in the summer; anybody who knows anything is actually out and about climbing things! From what I have heard about Chehalis approaches (pure personal conjecture here, mind you) you might want to move "puke" to #2 and scrap #3 Take a third tool with a hammer end instead of an axe: cracks in Chehalis are thin and pins should be considered essential (so I have read from Don either here or in CAJ). Jordo's golden rule of alpinism: If you get HALF your objectives done in a road/climbing trip, then it was a success (helps keep me sane)

quote: Originally posted by Cairns: Squamish, Crap Crags to Clean Corner. Good practice session on cedar and 5.8 Really? Nice! How many pitches you figure? Worth cleaning up over the fall or a waste of time? Surprised it stayed sub-5.10 [ 07-24-2002, 05:27 PM: Message edited by: jordop ]

Far more heinous are blackflies and horseflies; both have bitten me THROUGH Goretex , I'm crapping you negative. 90% Deet is only thing that works "broad spectrum". Last weekend in the Valhallas there were these horseflies that were more like small birds

route for east ridge typically follows the right hand red line. To access s face, contour across snowslopes (not as steep as it looks).

Too bad, I think a number of us were waiting to see a repeat there! If you do ever decide to go back, the right (east) side of the creek is probably much better; I remember very little bush at all (comparable to BC norms). An approach to the south face via the east ridge route sounds to be a good option. Follow creek east to huge basin below Porterhouse, up right side of waterfall, then up scree rib on the SW side of the glacier. Quite straightforward, I cairned the route. Yes, a topo always helps.

Although I have no direct experience on JT, do note that in Fairley the NW ridge is listed as poor rock, and I seem to remember that in the original report in the CAJ, Fabische said it was as well. Somehow in the intervening years, the rock has improved so that in McLane it is "good". Shit, who cares, it's the mountains!

Rain really sucks: http://www.bivouac.com/TripPg.asp?rq=Pg&TripId=1756