allison

REI has done many, many things to make me hate them. I'm not just being nostalgic here, I really, really hate that store. But it has the unfortunate distinction of being super-convenient, and the rental shop is pretty good too.

Wayne, can you elaborate? I can't tell from Chris's post that the guy was unhelmeted, or that his bowline somehow snagged and came undone. Is this the case? Is there news coverage of the accident somewhere?

I have NO IDEA what the following post might be referring to. [ 02-22-2002: Message edited by: allison ]

Icegirl, you are in BIG TROUBLE!

It's supposed to smell? You mean like a bad smell? Uh-oh.

[ 02-19-2002: Message edited by: allison ]

Pope, you completely fail to see my point. This is what I expected, unfortunately. The graphic phrase that I used as an example of something else you guys could say to one another was something I saw hurled as an insult on this very website a week or so ago. Ya think I cold make something like that up?

Um, hey, I hate to be all semantic here, but call one another anything you want, unless it is a derogatory term for the sweet female pie, in other words, calling someone a 'pussy' is not acceptable. Peeing in one another's butts, well I say have at it, if that's the insult that flies your kite, but, um, well, 'pussy' is sort of, well, not a thing that is bad. And I really hate to see it used that way, even in jest. It's disrespectful in a way that is not funny. [ 02-18-2002: Message edited by: allison ]

Smells like the Nickerson....and hey, who can help it if some of our nice people live down south? I mean it's lovely and all, but....so...far...away...!

I'm going to be cranking hard on the plastic holds until my creaky old bod body gives out....should be there around 7 or 7:30 myself. Might coax my gym buddy out, he's always lookng for other freaks, uh, I mean super-cool badasses, to talk ice climbing with. Icegirl, why don't you call it on which of those 2 pubs gets our hard earned $$$ tomorrow night...keeping in mind that $2.50 pint issue...

Where is my ETHER?

I think last week's was so good we should have it there again. Park Pub, 62nd and Phinney. Unless of course there is some sort of rule about having it in the same place 2 weeks in a row?

Sorry, lamers, Id'a posted sooner but....unfortunately while you were all in your cubes today....I....was....outside!

OK, take it easy on me for this: I need to get some weather conditions for tomorrow, avy, weather etc. Either S Side of Mt Loop or Stevens Pass area TBD. Didn't bookmark, can't remember where I got it before. Can't find the right place from the front side of this website either. Help. Promise to bookmark. AW

Oh, the ARC thing is real, and known about for a good while. As far as the idea of volunteering to avoid the fee, well, I think it's a great idea, and by all means I'm in favor of volunteer TM and the WTA, the difficult thing to accept is the notion that volunteer TM makes it harder for the FS to get the funding they need. I guess I don't see any volunteer window washers in the Federal Building down there on Second, maybe that's because they can't get enthusiasts to do that work....

Actual woman. Sorry to disappoint. [ 07-09-2002, 04:56 PM: Message edited by: allison ]

When I was a new little miss thing climber the first thing I did is go find myself as many other new little miss and mr things to learn with, and climb with indoors and out. At first I climbed a lot inside because I didn't have any gear and it was winter. Then I learned to lead and got a rope. I tried to mimimize my impact on the more experienced climbers I knew by not climbing with them too much. Climbing with newbies, esp if they don't lead, really SUCKS. HodiddleyHUM. Two things to get immediately: a rope. They wear out quickly. They are expensive. Thing #2 is leading skills. I'm just talking sport to start with, and most people I know don't mind lending you QDs until you get a dozen or so. Good luck, and don't play the gender card. If we find out you are a troll, things will get worse...so hopefully you are a real girl. Good luck.

okayokayokay VegBelay, you are riiiiight. I obviously DON'T understand the concept of the Spry, because if I did, I'd know why this poop belongs here on the main board instead of over on Planet Spray, where the big boys* go out and play *those would be the ones who have cracked the Net Nanny! [ 02-15-2002: Message edited by: allison ]

Matt A, you may have missed my point....I was trying to explain why the system is dynamic in the first place, and why IMO, it's ideal to keep the system as dynamic as possible. There are so many variables here though, as pointed out by the myriad posts on the subject. Make no mistake: I never meant to imply static rope or otherwise faulty belay system. The system stays more dynamic when the belayer is belaying off of their harness (perferably IMO with a device other than a GriGri), and not attached to an anchor if possible. This gives your belayer the control they need to protect the leader and the belay system, as explained by others here.

Or you can read about it over on 'Spray.'

OK, my $.02: I am anti- belaying off an anchor, or being anchored in (when possible, obviously) while belaying. The reason why is that it introduces another static element into the system. The more stretchy the system (like the rope, and your braking hand) the better and easier it is on your climber when they fall. Think of this: if the rope and other elements of the belay system didn't have dynamic 'give' in them, the impact of the rope going tight in a lead fall could easily kill the climber. Internal injuries! Everyone's a little bit different in the amount of slack they want, but this is what I like for what it's worth: I want the rope as taut as you can make it without me ever being able to feel the rope. Right...the loose side of tense. If you know your partner you know how fast they climb and whether they are going to move fast or slow. I want the rope fed out smoothly so the only sort of 'pulling' I ever feel is the rope drag. Remember if you ever get a little sloppy on belaying too tight to blame the rope drag your partner won't be the wiser ...Except in the case of groundfall potential in which case I'll short-rope (on the side of taut) when I can (the clip or pro is, say, waist level or higher) in order to protect against that.

It was EEEXCELLENT. Good turnout, maybe a dozen. I was groggy at work this morning. Mmmmm....obsidian stout!!!

Thanks to VB for the helpful and incisive commentary. Really appreciate it. Now, back to the matter at hand: The preview of the course is a fair point....now if the girls could at least get as steep a course as the boys, and as long a one, we'd be talking! As far as Glen Plake is concerned, well, that guy is a freak. Flame suit on. Spray queen? MOI? What ever gave you that idea? [ 02-13-2002: Message edited by: allison ]

Many apply, few are accepted.

Erik, where are these construction workers you are talking about? Rigging is typically done with steel cable with swaged and thimbled eyes (rated), shackles (rated), steel biners (rated) chain hoists (rated), and not with unrated materials. Very similar to what we use in my work. We never fake it because we don't have the right stuff. There's too much danger and liability. Same with construction work. Of course there is rated chain....haven't you ever seen a chain hoist? As far as the 'what is rated' question...it's too complicated to discuss here, especially when you get into dynamic loads. There might be some stuff on the Petzl website on this, they talk about this sometimes. Typically in my work we look at the load capacity of whatever we are using, and then incorporate a safety factor of 5 to 8 times that rating, but there are so many variables to that formula in doing safe overhead rigging....well it's just not worth getting in to.