tomtom

Re: BD Stoppers--Bounce Test Data From - Tue Feb 16 14:36:39 1999 From: Chris Harmston <chrish@bdel.com> Newsgroups: rec.climbing I have measured forces up to 1000 lbf while bounce testing. I was using BD Etriers and bounced with about a six inch free fall bounce. It is easy to break small Stoppers if vigorously bounce testing. I weigh 190 lb. I have seen several small stoppers break in the field due to bounce testing and due to lead falls. Rated strengths are stated as 3 sigma failure loads. There is not a 20 to 30% buffer. They break close to what they are rated. 3 Sigma is three standard deviations below the average breaking strength. Average batch test results (n = 10) range from 600 to 700 lbf for #1 and #2 Stoppers. Batch standard deviations range from 6 lb to 50 lb. When combined into a years worth of data our rating computes to 450 lbf. The weakest sample I have seen in the last year failed at 535 lbf. The strongest failed at 808 lbf. 3 Sigma means that there is a 99.87% chance that the sample will be stronger than the rating. This also means that there is a 0.13% chance that a sample will fail below the rating. All this data is for brand new equipment that has never seen any fatigue due to placement, removal, falling on, bouncing on, etc. These small units get worn fairly quickly and can break eventually. Inspect your gear often. If you have to use these for lead protection then follow the advice of most of this group. Back them up. Sometimes the only option you have is a small nut. Better than nothing in many situations. Beware of the limitations of your gear though. Chris On Tue, 16 Feb 1999 mdimeo@brooktree.com wrote: >In article <36C8F69A.82BF48A1@boeing.com>, > Mike Garrison <mike.garrison@boeing.com> wrote: >> ratagonia@zdnetmail.com wrote: >> > Catalog say 2kN or 450 lbf for #1 & #2. Not hard to generate this kind of >> > load in a fall. >> That's an understatement. My body weight is close to 1 KN. >> Just jumping up and down I can generate about 2 KN. > >Ooh, a verifiable experiment. I like it. How about you try it out? >I've always wondered how much force a bounce test really generates. >Clip a biner to a bolt low to the ground. Slide the head down a #1 stopper. >Clip one end to the bolt biner. Clip an aider or sling to the other end. >Don safety glasses. Bounce. See if you can break it. I'm really curious. > >Off the top of my head, I'm betting biner flex, aider stretch, etc. will >prevent breakage. Time to find myself a low bolt, though my weight is only >around 0.73kN. >-m@ Chris Harmston (chrish@bdel.com). Quality Assurance Manager. Materials Engineer BS, ME. Black Diamond Equipment Ltd. 2084 East 3900 South, SLC, UT 84124 phone: 801-278-5552 Go Fish

In 1974 he married Wende Braunberger, and their children were Eric, Thomas and Sarah, who was born in 2000, when Doohan was 80.

Yeah, what he said. Brian Miller

I bought a pair, and honestly, I can't tell the difference.

Prick.

trauma

A couple minor edits to this topo ... The first pitch of GD (aid) is a thin crack to the right of the first pitch of Davis Holland almost directly under Town Crier. Pitches 2 & 3 can be linked with a 60m, so the lengths are shorter than listed. Has anyone linked 4&5? I think it's doable. A couple hook moves will get you between the first two bolts on p4 (where it says expanding flake). There's a hook placement between the last bolt and the anchor on p4. No free move required. The hangars are in place on p5. p6 is a little more than 4th when it's wet.

Too many amateurs, not enough pro.

Followup: Thursday, July 14, 2005 - Page updated at 04:35 PM Body believed to be missing Seattle canoeist recovered The Associated Press YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, Wyo. — The body of a man believed to have drowned when his canoe capsized two weeks ago was recovered today, park officials said. Joseph R. Miller, 59, of Seattle, was last seen July 2 paddling in rough water on the northeast section of Lewis Lake, which lies about 8 miles south of West Thumb Junction. At the time, 2- to 4-foot waves and wind of 25-35 mph were noted, and the water temperature was 54 degrees, rangers said in a release. Miller was alone and not wearing a life jacket, officials said. Late that afternoon, a backpack, life jacket, canoe and other items belonging to Miller were found on shore. Using sonar, an independent contractor located the body this morning about 800 feet from shore, in water 31 feet deep. A dive team retrieved the body, and autopsy was ordered.

I was waiting for your clever response Dru. The rest of us are still waiting.

Gone!

Thanks to all who attended the memorial last night. There was a large crowd of several hundred, including family members, friends, co-workers, climbing partners, and others in the Mountaineers community. Several spoke in appreciation of the show of support.

Yeah, I'm still jealous that women can do that.

Photo was taken 7/3 along the Moraine Trail at about 6000 ft. Quite the contrast going from rock, snow, and ice to moraine to wildflower meadows in the span of a half mile or so.

Darryl Cramer (SVR guidebook author) has been doing such things and occasionally sticks his nose in this bb. He organized a cleanup party back in April in cooperation with the State Parks.

I wonder what she swallowed?

The 2001 Revised McLane guide is also an option. I'll sell you mine!

Mercy Me!

Umm, no. 2*quote + 1/2*quote = 2.5*quote, not 2*quote. You've actually increased pollution.

and that's the ONLY kind of dating he'll be doing didn't realize I set myself up for that one. Hey Dru, do us a favor and tell us all WTF you do for a living that allows you to post so damn much and so fast all over this BB, eh? It should only take you about 30 seconds to find this out on your own. He's a Yukon Ho.

First trip.

RIP John Augenstein and Mark Harrison (mjhclimbs)

Airport in Portland.

Horsecock and Gu.