Necronomicon

What do I need to do to get some more stars? Who's balls do I lick?

Don't pay the fee.

"Fun"? What's that? Like "which hurt the least"? Actually, climbing the third colouir on Dragontail in the dark, and topping out at 11:30pm, 28h B'ham-to-B'ham, and living, that made me feel good. Also, Central Colouir on Joffre, with a broken rib. Little Finger (5p 5.4 on Lake George in NY) was fun. You have to paddle a canoe to the base, and the climb is over the water. Yak Check... NE Colouir Cutthroat had an awesome topout...

What's the relief?

?????

I want...your mom.

Haiku for Trask: I'm taking a shit. It curls on top of your head. Once again, you lose.

One down, three to go...

(Here I go again) NF would be horrid right now. Good chance of death. It's raining right now, and windy as hell. You'd have a mess of unconsolidated, windloaded snow. But I suggest you give it a try. I'd like to read the TR, if you lived. I'll be looking at my gear in sorrow...

Not a good idea, IMHO. It's douching out here right now, I think winter is here for a while. Count on shitloads of snow for weeks on end. But you never know, as this fall has shown us all, and you can always find a "safe" alternative. The problem witht he sulphide, as the winter progresses, is the length of the approach. I've had to ski up the road for six miles, and that was in the spring.

eats a big steamy curl.

This is probably the wrong forum for this question, but can we run silent auctions in the yard sale? Has anyone done this in the past?

For some REAL fun, you should try throwing a scarecrow in front of a car.

Would you pay $6500 for a 1989 Toyota pickup, 4x4, V6, mint cond., 148,000mi? Why? (I'm trying to figure out if I'm getting cornholed.)

I'm surpised no one has mentioned this one yet, but IMHO, it's your Mom. Awesome hand jams...

Are you calling me a moron???

No one wants to die, so no one wants to fall. Once you get used to falling, you can break into the tens.

Mike and I headed up to Colfax Peak today, again, to try the Houston route, again. The great part about this route is that you cannot see if it's in until you hike from the trailhead to approximately 7000'. The route is not in. Again. Surpirsed? We turned around, again, and went home, again. I am home now. (At least I've got the trail DAILED!!! Next time: RED POINT.) On a more serious note, where the fuck was everybody? Beautiful weather and everything, and we didn't run into a single person who even smelled like a climber, let alone shared our ambition. What gives? So the climb wasn't in, so what, you should be out trying to get it anyways. Sod. On a lighter note, an interesting question came up while we stewed at our high point: Do you think Jesus ever got a erection? I, for one, would like to know.

1) Your Mom. 2) Your Dad. 3) Your Grandma. 4) Your Grandad. That should do it...

quote: Originally posted by Smoker: I have an x-15 straight shaft that I take when I pack 2 tools into the alpine. Cheap and solid tool. Maybe a bit on the heavy side. It works for me. My other tool is an old X-15, with a hammer though. Do they typically have this tool with an adze at 2nd ascent?

quote: Originally posted by Skisports: quote:Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by jordop: Who said I didn't have tools? you did I can ski, you can't I can ski uphill Skiing chix better than ice chix? Probably Ski bunnies cause overpopulation and most have Whistler diseases or the backcountry variation smell of polypro even after they shower Ice climbin' chix rock my dome especially when they get me drunk or in the Rampart Creek sauna So Dru How many times have you jumped into the creek next to the sauna with a little lady?Ow...

quote: Originally posted by Dru: you're screwed, i'd say. time for a new tool. this time buy something real not that cassin junk. The Cassin "junk" lasted for almost ten years. A bit heavy, but solid and reliable. Any thoughts on a new tool that's good for the alpine, but not too pricey?

I broke the adze off of my favorite alpine ice tool. I whacked it into my shin chopping a bollard, which must have cracked it, and then smashed it off hitting into rock in the moat. Does anyone know where I can pick up an adze for a Cassin Anteres?

Mike and I headed out to the N. Face of Rideout, hoping to climb some ice. The start for the colouir proper was not in, so we went up a gully to the left (-5.5?) for about 500' before we ran out of ice/route. We didn't need a rope for the terrain we encountered (a few ice steps and hard snow). We got to a large bench above the -5.0 gully, but could not have rapped in with one rope. There was an ice line forming to our left, but it was looking grim. Had we gone that way, we would have had to contend with a gnarly traverse higher up to get back into -5.0. The upper colouir looks to be in fine shape, but the middle gully does not look to be in completely, not to mention the initial gully, which had a good amount of water running under thin, grey ice. We encountered a significant amount of avalanche debris aproaching the route, my feeling is that the recent snow didn't stick. We rapped the route from a sling and bollards. I broke off my adze chopping the final bollard, after I hacked into my shin. Anyone have an adze for a Cassin Anteres? 1000' of hard neve slab back to the river, and the final kick in the crotch through copious Devil's Club up the clear cut to the road. In all, this area sucks, and there are no good climbs worth doing out there. Access is a major issue. I will never go back.

Has anyone been out and about around or above 6000' in the North Cascades over the last couple days? I'm really curious about current snow conditions above 6000' on northern aspects. Where were you? What was the snow like? What were the daytime temps? Any beta would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a bunch, -J