Necronomicon

Do the approach to Ashlu in the dark, on the left side of the creek. This will be her last climbing trip. Or, you could take her up the west side of Sleese for some top-roping. She will be shattered, an empty husk of a person.

LOL you sick fuck. If he was my partner, I'd use him as an equalized belay anchor.

No shit, Ron Jeremy heads Al Qaeda. Here's the proof: From CNN, and this shit can't be wrong: I'm still reeling.

GregW would never park on a 25 degree wet grass slope. Maybe you should marry that little bitch.

This is confusing. Huh?? I'll clarify...I barely give a shit any more. Someone posted a poll that sought to catagorize my actions as right or wrong. Fuck that noise. I'm glad my friends are okay. They were not lost , they did not need a rescue , they were not rescued . No one found them, they were met on their way down. They were late. We found this strange, so we let people know they were late, and SAR did their thing. Any more questions? In the future, I'll can the confusing prose, and stick to more straightforward posting language, to limit confusion, which is confusing, and made you confusedly confused, confuser to confusee. I'm really sorry about that.

I'd like to be the norse looking uber-climber who pulls them out of icy graves at 6000' and drags them up the route, over the true summit and back down to the waiting Chinook helicopter.

First, I did not call search and rescue to "resuce" two climbers, I called to report them overdue. Actions taken after that point by others were of their own making. Secondly, Mike and Matt did not need rescue, they came off the mountain completely under their own power. I will not respond to how they feel about it. But, to suggest that there are only two courses of action in this case, right and wrong , is to oversimplify the complexity of the situation, given a large number of serious factors to consider. Finally, I did the right thing, just ask me. If you think otherwise, lovely. The actions that were taken were decided upon after careful contemplation, and were not made casually, or without a full recognition of their outcome. We knew full well that this would quickly turn into a big deal, complete with helicopters, searchers, and news coverage. Ultimately, it worked out for the best for almost everyone involved. Mike and Matt had an awesome test of their skills and resiliency, did a sweet route in impecable style, fucked up the descent, paid a hefty price in human suffering for their mistakes, and came out of it with grins on their faces and empty stomachs. SAR got to do what it loves to do, which is to do the SAR thing. Pilots got to fly and the paper got its story, complete with ten inaccuracies in every sentence. Great job!! For us, and I think I can speak for everyone involved that knew these two, or of these two, worried over them and for them and crossed our fingers, most importantly, we got our friends back safe. The only loser was the TV. They didn't get any bodies and Mike got $150 out of them for two pictures and tens seconds of FAME, with Matt leading the crux, and crawling through their hole in the cornice, his face plastered with a shit-eating grin. FUCK YEAH!!!!!!!

Mike kept refering to the SOUTH face because they were on the SOUTH face. That's how they got fucked...

i heard it was Necro!!! Quite true. Late wednesday night, Mike's girlfriend and I decided they were overdue, and notified Snohomish county 911. I spoke with SAR a number of times early thursday morning, and throughout the day, until last night, when they notified us that all was well. I have mixed feelings about my actions, given the fact that everything turned out okay and a resuce was ultimately not required. Having said that, if Mike and Matt were in harms way, I wanted their situation to be known before first light, in order to maximize the amount of time spent searching, and also to beat the weather system that was moving in. And let me tell you, when hour 38 rolled around and there was still no sign of them, a lot of people, myself included, were very concerned. Please feel free to rail on me as a coddling mother, and as having blown all of this out of proportion for nothing, but my boys were up there, and I wanted them to come back. -J ps Mike figured the climb, all told, cost over $100,000. He's probably on the low side...

50 meter will work. yup. We only had 60m to choose from.

We climbed on a doubled up 8.2mm x 60m. We belayed two pitches, the first ice step, and the transition into the third colouir, simul-soloed the first colouir, and simul-climbed the rest. We used three cams(purple-red camalots) and pins(kb and angles).

Maybe no one can locate the route because they are looking for the non-existant "Squamish Chief"

Muy graphico!! But your point is lost, in that these people were being hoisted into a helicopter, rather than climbing. The climbing related injury was probably a bit less severe than the helicopter hoist related injury.

Where's the "Bong Specialization Chart"?

Any of these work fine

What do you do? Are you the appointed head of George Bush's Washington State Environmental Task Force? He's a science teacher in the Mt. Baker School District, if I'm not mistaken... Secret's out! Care to participate in a discussion on measuring the index of refraction for water, crown glass, and polycarbonate at room temperature? Where do you work, Greg?

No, I fell on "Deirde", I guess, which is weird, because I don't remember starting up it. I'm not even sure where that climb is. Eric? Can you help me out? Where is this "Deirde"?

You're paying big money for me to blow off my job and spray, so enjoy it!!

I took a look at Nelson's CAS2 last night, the pic of Triumph in winter looks pretty grim. What's the easiest way off the mountain? Has anyone here done the Central Rib on the N Face in summer? I seem to remember the crux being down low...

Yummy! Love me tender!! luv me tool I love you!! bring kneepads I will!! I love you!!

Yummy! Love me tender!! luv me tool I love you!!

Yummy! Love me tender!!

I love each and every one of you so much. I feel, though, that this love is unrequitted...

It's genius , gennis. Moran!