G-spotter

we'll never see a tr cause his ass got banninated

Did you ever hear of skis or snowshoes while you were reading FOTH?

http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/calgary/chinook/Chinook-Apr06.pdf How to sharpen your own ice screws, By Orvel Miskiw

You will.

Sounds like you caught a case of Bad Karma.

"You might be going up, mate, but a lot farther than you think..."

Just remember your password or sumpin'?

The way the font changes to yellow and orange when you mouse over it doesn't do much for me.

Fuckin' A Kurt :rawk:

PfTp0CGu_2A

That looks pretty cool.

if only we could find minx the bunny sign again.

The Nodderation? Oh my god!

wearing shorts over polypro. do the Mounties have a Mounted division? guess so.

They may have failed morally but they succeeeded technically.

Trip: The Lillooet Experience - OJ/Jade Falls/Loose Society Date: 12/27/2006 Trip Report: So Jesse, Steve and I all had time off and we didn't want to drive to the Rockies if we could climb close to home. Save the planet, drive less, climb local. So yeah, Lillooet it is. J+S got here Wed morning, we got in my Subaru, espresso in Hope, bacon in Canyon Alpine, and we still beat TrogdorTheBurninator + girlfriend to OJ. Oregon Jack climbs easier on the right side this year despite Jesse's belief that the left side was go. There's some sort of spooky time vortex around OJ. Bermuda triangle thing. Yes, it ate our day. By the time all three of us had climbed it was almost dark. WTF?? So we got in da car and drove to the truck stop in Cache Creek. Ate some greasy chewandspew. Drove to Lillooet. Got hotel room. Walked to bar. Bar was closed. Ordered pizza for desert. Swilled Jager until passout time. Forgot how to pass out and lay awake until 3 AM. Saturday, alarm went off at 6. Pounded it till it stopped. At 7:30 someone knocked on wrong door. Woke up then. Reynolds. Grease. Cheese. Potatoes. No pregnant waitress. Child labour, though. Drove up the Bridge gaping at ice. Drove back to Jade Falls. Started hiking around 11 AM. Oh yeah, plenty of time. Postholing. Strange time-eating vortex AGAIN, wtf Steve set off slab avalanche in gully on approach. Got spare as neither jmace or myself were bowled over. Got to ice at 2. My lead. J +S insisted I climb direct route. I climbed easy route instead. Crampon fell off. Placed screw. Lowered. Reclimbed and continued to top. J+S climbed hard pillar direct and got huge forearms of pumpitude. Finished at dark. Slogged out. Teh Jade Falls climbination. On return to Lillooet we found jordop and E in next motelroom. Drank soynog and rum, more Jager, etc and walked to pub. This time pub open but kitchen closed. Walked back to Greek place. Inhaled pasta, meatball, kalimari etc. Back to motel room for more Jager. Remembered how to pass out this time. Friday. We got kicked out of motel room to make room for giant powwow that had booked every bed in town. Reynolds, grease, potatoes, ketchup, sausage, . Drove to Rambles. Much in. Lots of snow. Drove back to Loose Lady and/or Society Girls (in case Steve decided he didn't want to lead a 5+). Began slog. Soloed numerous WI2 steps buried under 2-3 feet of snow. Fell through some holes. Got to last pitch before bowl where LL/SG split. Jmace on the lead tunnelling through waist deep layers of crud and snice looking for screwable ice. 8D Decided to bail. Jmace builds Abalakov out of cord jordop left in car weeks ago. Turns out apparent 7mm cord is actually bungy cord. Abalakov stretches alarmingly. J leaves sling instead, raps off. We build test Abalakov, practice bungy jumping until ice blows out. Cord stays intact. Hmmmm? Descent same. Car. Canyon Alpine pie, burgers, steak. Home by 8. Gear Notes: Screws and bungy cord. Nice to have adze! Approach Notes: Subaru, posthole.

If you bail, you might live, but you still failed.

The segue or the fisting?

how much feet do you have to lose before you can use a bolted on monopoint like Hugh Herr?

"Summit or die, either way I win" - Rob Slater.

Oh ok, we saw this red Subaru parked for Synchro (in the wrong place on the hill,where you will get towed or ticketed, instead of down at the bridge) and it had WA plates and we thought it was you.

I thought the only people who got gout were characters in Charles Dickens novels???

There's a big powwow there this weekend and hotel spaces are non-existant. Oregon Jack is in, very nice, thin at the top. Right side gives best climbing this year. Bridge: a lot of stuff is forming and very thin (Old Dogs is just verglas, Hell Creek is 50% water). Shriek of the Sheep is not in yet. The Gift is pretty much touching down but very very thin looking. Jade Falls, Capricorn, Nightngale, Blackbird, Mixmaster J, The Virgin and Taikonaut are in. There is a lot of snow high up. We triggered a small slab avalanche in the gully below Jade Falls. Nightngale gully looked pretty loaded at the top. Blackbird is not only in but has two separate pillars at the crux. Duffy: a lot of stuff is in but some of it is thin/early season. Seton Weeps are very thin ice. Three Ring Circus looks pretty good. Synchronicity is fat at the top but skinny low down (TrogdortheBurninator was trying this one today). A couple of rare or unusual things have formed. The Peterson-Smardige Dihedral at the Rambles is in all the way to the top! Shreddie is touching down. Even Serendipity looked like it might want to form up. El Nino is not in. Deep Throat had a big hole. Carls Berg is "sort of" in, narrow pillars not filled in between yet, maybe WI6 right now? Some routes are very snowy. We got defeated on Loose Lady by an 8cm thick ice layer over 20cm of snow over more cruddy ice. You could climb it but the cleaning a trench down to sold ice part (vertical postholing?) was incredibly laborious.