marek

overall i,m with matt,s opinion at 90%. but i do not agree with you on the wand,s deal. either winter or summer wands are needed, add to that compass and anyone should be safe.personaly i think no one should take stove or sleeping bag for the summit ( unless you intend to stay there overnite ) what,s up with big groups ? too big!!!!. 2-3 climber teams operate better/faster and if there is a problem you know it right then.

leaving on thursday, 2 day trip. let me know if interested. marek

for those that done the traverse. where would i find good description of the route ? something more than beckey. i know already the way up and down of dome pk, and agree that bit of bushwalk sucked on the way home. what is the real duration 5 or 7 days?? we have done dome pk in 2 days as a measure.

stefan one thing for sure, whatever you see on the map as a logging road could possibly be a mini bushwalk.i was just there 2 weeks ago, with 2 feet of new snow i had to turn around from about 1/3 of the ridge ( std, west ridge ) take a bike with you, it will make things easy on the way home.i,ll be there on sunday , again! marek

that lower section of the route is quite rotten.my hand was hit by a big rock right at the entrance onto the ridge. it was a left hand,it sweel a bit and hurt tremendosly and since then you climb on the right side of the ridge i had to use my left hand.after i took some aspirin at the thumb rock,things got better the next day.second day after leaving camp on the left side snow slope,our leader got hit on his knee.we pached him up a bit and he was good to go but after a while he was still bleading.it was actual blod trail.lastly when we were going around the black piramid a bunch of rocks fell at my friend chriss koziarz. would there be no beley,he would be gone via thermogenessis.out of four of us only one guy got out with no scratch.it was mid june and carbon was still ok to cross.it,s a nice route but not to be taken as an easy one.

i,m sorry ? dru , who said" american climbers sucks" about 99.9999 % of my partners are americans. so why don,t you just chill ! and do a post # 9734.

finaly a positive report! i did mt tiggerr with my son and 3 other kids.sorry ! i could not drive to the top.but i,ll say small front wheel cars are the best ! i have a ford escort and that thing been everywere.if i got suck in the mud i would slap chains on and carry on.once on mt shuksan we teemed up with 3 others that came up from price glacier and i helped and drove them back from the start of sulpide gl. to the north side.imagine 6 guys (stinky guys!!!) plus all the gear in my small ponny.smal cars rule!!!!

looking for partners with 20,000 ft expirience. please respond only if you are intrested and been high up looking for motivated climbers who want their first 26,000ft summit

i don,t think a hard ass russian climber would want to climb with someone who,s name is all over this web site. climb ! instead of writing or worst, piss off russian climbers!!!! polish climber

anyone feels motivated for a climb on tue-wed ? give me a call 253-945-1493. gib ledges or ID , i have wheels and climbed mt rainier a number of times.

anyone motivated for mt rainier on tuesday/wednsday ? give me a call 253-945-1493 gib ledges or ingraham direct i have wheels and been up the hill few times.

well,since we are on the subject ! friend of mine and myself climbed big-4 in the summer via dry creek rte.big B. in his book tells you to go to the right on the final rock wall ( at the end of the couloir ) and it is to be class 3 climbing ? for us it looked very shitty on the right plus there was large moat,so we went up in the middle class 4 with some class 5 moves,totaly loose stuff and we never protected.on the way down we still could not find this class 3 rte.what we found was rappel slings on the left (south ) side of the wall. so ! is there a class 3 finish up there ? and where ? othervise it was a nice summit and suprising snow cap.

toast do not know the exact elevation for the turn.best follow the trail as best as you can to the long traverse to lk,anette,then you will pass the first couloir (about 30 ft wide) then shortly an oppening.start going up on the far side of the oppening ,you will see another gutter on the right (just keep it on the right) the forested slope will slowly narrow with some rocks and trees.40-45 deg.that will go up to nw ridge of silver) take right for about a 3/4 mile to the summit.up to that point its very avi safe,no problem.the slope going down to the col. with abiel is wide and open at first but then there is trees and getting flat. so the only danger could be the upper slope of silver.as far as abiel,it could be done in some problematic snow since there is plenty of trees for protection.all you need is ice ax and crampons.on the way down go down and under the north face of abiel and then go down to the west side of the lk.the trail back is at the nw corner of the lk, marek

sorry guys i kept you waiting for so long with my reply!!!!just working!!! first off all,it,s not about ones climbing record or ability,its about respect.in my opinion mr, adamson was disrespectful on numerous occasions with his comments to posts written on cc. cpt,caveman if you think i need a chill pill,let me know if you want me to foward to you e-mail i got from michael adamson.but let me warn you it is full of obscenities,vulgar and thretening. and to you michael-you ever send to me one more e-mail like this i,ll walk down the street to the police dep. and let them handle your case. be a sport!!!stop bashing climbers on cc ,post some report,s of yours and then you might get the respect of others.you can,t have it both ways. i hope this ends this epic.

what i hate the most is people that do noting comment on things they have no idea about. great job mvs ,climbing tooth is far better than skiing blue runs at alpental or worse, pretend you are someone you are not!! i have not red a report from you mr adamson, and all my friends are telling me you are suck!!! is that so ?? how about a summit photo on rainier can you climb the hill ?? let me know smart ass!!!

some of you americans are funny!! it,s like an ambulance going in one direction and cars pulling over on the opposite side of the highway. THINK before you spit at someone!!! that,s my 5 polish cent,s

you guys! south america is cheap!!almost anyone can put a trip for a grand inc ticket. it,s up to any of us to make a decision and go for it aconcagua,ilimani or hurascaran it,s just the same.people are friendly,safety far better than in asia."MAKE IT HAPPEN" as scott fisher used to say.

well,the last i checked on the web site.there was no box for expeditions.so mt rainier being high up,would fit the profile for climbers being interested in high mountains.i just used common sense and shared the information.i stop there!

just for the record!! greg moo- usa,maximo henostroza-peru,marek wencel usa/poland climbed hurascaran sur 22,205ft.this was the first accent of 2002.the weather was exelent.snow conditions very good up to c-1. from c-1 to c-2 mixed snow/ice 45-50% up the shutte and then traverse to the garganta.lots of crust and sugar snow under.summit day 17 hrs due to more technical terain and no route being established.we encoutered ice up to 65% and deep snow on flatter terain.after initial stay in huaraz (10.00ft)and some hikes around,it took us 8 days up and 2 days down.please do not take this climb as a walk-up,as john biggar,s book(the andes) suggest,s.over the past few years glacier conditions are worse and worse.serious climb but fun.anyone interested in more details,please leave me a note.lucky again marek

well,if we are doing mt,fuji sprrryy.the way to avoid the crowds is to go and start in the morning insted of the usual night hike to see the sunrise on the summit.when i did it last year jul 07,we did see and talked to people,but there was no need to wait in line.besides we used brakes for more beer-wine intake.i can proudly say that i,m responsible for making loge keeper totaly drunk!

thank,s guys for your positive support!i know we gave it all we had.but i,ll try again next winter as well.i have summited rainier 9 times via 7 routes and this winter summit is just about the last thing i,m really interested in on rainier. gib ledges should be just fine,there is plenty of snow on the mountain.last year in january there was very thin ice,about 1/4 inch thick,so we tried the first section and then bailed since there was no protection at all.the rock is shitty,i would not put pro into this.of course we could not use screws as well.

it was at around 11,500 on ingraham glacier,right above some ice cliffs in the middle of the glacier."live and lern" you got it right!! thank,s for your info of the route.

for those interested in mt rainier.myself and 3 others (i will not mention names since some called in sick)went for ingraham direct on feb 12-13.i think that harry wapler and jeff renners should hang at the same tree for they now 100% inacurate weather forecast.ok let,s get to the climb.we went to the muir on the 12th with light winds and snow conditions being very good.we all made it at around 4hrs.(dru)the fumes at the hut were just fine--brethable(again-english!!) we left the hut at 5am with light wind,s and some gust,s.we got to the flat,s at the sunrise.snow at the flat,s was at times knee deep but mostly less.ingraham in very good condition with boot high snow.at the beginning of ingraham glacier proper wind,s started incrising up to 40-50 mph with blindning spinn drift,s,to the point that you could not see anyone on the rope.i led from muir to 12,500 ft (top of dc)then another polish plow took over.at that time wind,s were steady 50mph with stonger gust,s and ever present spinn drift in our faces.as we got higher the wind,s increased as well.the route above dc was in good condition as well,with few minor crevasse crossings.when we got to 14,000 ft (baromether and visual contact with crater rimm,5-10 min walk) we decided to turn around.we were not able to force our way against the wind,let alone walk.the last 15 min we were basicly on our feet and hands, and still being blown away.as we walked down the mountain,wind,s picked up as well.spinn drift,s on ingraham reduced visibility to none.at that time i fell in to crevasse twice (my first time). and like that all way to muir.after we packed we went the snow-field in constant 40-60 mph wind,s. and ever present spinn drifts.pann point being foged inn ad the darkness aproaching,we got lost a bit(auch!!)but safely made it to the car by 8 pm.a hart breaking turn around,but it could not be done in the conditions we were in. for those commentin this tread, please stick to the story! othervise create your own tread! respectfully marek

cancel that!my usual friends decided to climb.

looking for one or two gents who want to go for it on rainier on 11-13 feb.either gib-ledges or ingraham direct.depending on snow conditions. mwencel@dellepro.com