marek

just for the record!! greg moo- usa,maximo henostroza-peru,marek wencel usa/poland climbed hurascaran sur 22,205ft.this was the first accent of 2002.the weather was exelent.snow conditions very good up to c-1. from c-1 to c-2 mixed snow/ice 45-50% up the shutte and then traverse to the garganta.lots of crust and sugar snow under.summit day 17 hrs due to more technical terain and no route being established.we encoutered ice up to 65% and deep snow on flatter terain.after initial stay in huaraz (10.00ft)and some hikes around,it took us 8 days up and 2 days down.please do not take this climb as a walk-up,as john biggar,s book(the andes) suggest,s.over the past few years glacier conditions are worse and worse.serious climb but fun.anyone interested in more details,please leave me a note.lucky again marek

well,if we are doing mt,fuji sprrryy.the way to avoid the crowds is to go and start in the morning insted of the usual night hike to see the sunrise on the summit.when i did it last year jul 07,we did see and talked to people,but there was no need to wait in line.besides we used brakes for more beer-wine intake.i can proudly say that i,m responsible for making loge keeper totaly drunk!

thank,s guys for your positive support!i know we gave it all we had.but i,ll try again next winter as well.i have summited rainier 9 times via 7 routes and this winter summit is just about the last thing i,m really interested in on rainier. gib ledges should be just fine,there is plenty of snow on the mountain.last year in january there was very thin ice,about 1/4 inch thick,so we tried the first section and then bailed since there was no protection at all.the rock is shitty,i would not put pro into this.of course we could not use screws as well.

it was at around 11,500 on ingraham glacier,right above some ice cliffs in the middle of the glacier."live and lern" you got it right!! thank,s for your info of the route.

for those interested in mt rainier.myself and 3 others (i will not mention names since some called in sick)went for ingraham direct on feb 12-13.i think that harry wapler and jeff renners should hang at the same tree for they now 100% inacurate weather forecast.ok let,s get to the climb.we went to the muir on the 12th with light winds and snow conditions being very good.we all made it at around 4hrs.(dru)the fumes at the hut were just fine--brethable(again-english!!) we left the hut at 5am with light wind,s and some gust,s.we got to the flat,s at the sunrise.snow at the flat,s was at times knee deep but mostly less.ingraham in very good condition with boot high snow.at the beginning of ingraham glacier proper wind,s started incrising up to 40-50 mph with blindning spinn drift,s,to the point that you could not see anyone on the rope.i led from muir to 12,500 ft (top of dc)then another polish plow took over.at that time wind,s were steady 50mph with stonger gust,s and ever present spinn drift in our faces.as we got higher the wind,s increased as well.the route above dc was in good condition as well,with few minor crevasse crossings.when we got to 14,000 ft (baromether and visual contact with crater rimm,5-10 min walk) we decided to turn around.we were not able to force our way against the wind,let alone walk.the last 15 min we were basicly on our feet and hands, and still being blown away.as we walked down the mountain,wind,s picked up as well.spinn drift,s on ingraham reduced visibility to none.at that time i fell in to crevasse twice (my first time). and like that all way to muir.after we packed we went the snow-field in constant 40-60 mph wind,s. and ever present spinn drifts.pann point being foged inn ad the darkness aproaching,we got lost a bit(auch!!)but safely made it to the car by 8 pm.a hart breaking turn around,but it could not be done in the conditions we were in. for those commentin this tread, please stick to the story! othervise create your own tread! respectfully marek

cancel that!my usual friends decided to climb.

looking for one or two gents who want to go for it on rainier on 11-13 feb.either gib-ledges or ingraham direct.depending on snow conditions. mwencel@dellepro.com

mike! enyone summited rainier this winter? eny stories? hope the road open,s when the weather get,s better? marek

well,i guess while we are on the subject.i was just in the area on 21/22.and got only to lower snow lk.started from snow creek entrance.trail up to snow creek wall,then cross country.above 4,500ft there is about 4 feet of powder,avi danger considerable,so i could not get higher.but the area is just f a n t a s t i c !!!!!!!!!!!! and yes,lots of ice!!!!!!!!!!!

matt i did some checking,and i have to give it to you. you are right,ipsut creek is the way to go.you do start low but fuck it,at least you are going up! and it is short too.i guess if i ever show up again on liberty,i,ll go this way for a change.

hey guys!!let,s not change the subject here!! we are talking about winter climb not the summer! and in my view,again.why go back 25+ miles if you have a perfect ways down on the other side. summer time it,s another story.

i forgot about the decent: it would be best to go down gib ledges or ingraham direct,so you do not have to back track.i hope you are familiar with all of the routes involved. if not!,abandon the climb!!it will save rangers another problem.but it has been done before and i wish you good luck!

white river entrance is the way to go,but please do not take the bike with you since everything is under the snow.the road will be plowed up to cristal ski place turn off.so it is a long way inn.take skis ang go lite (if you can).wait for a bomber high presure.otherwise see you on the summit,since i,m waiting for a better weather as well.

just did bryant as per becky,s south aproach. it,s snowsoeing all way to within 250 ft from the summit.stay on the ridge from hemlock pass,there is tree protection to within the last 250ft or so. then you have to go either riht(open avalanche slope)or left (ramp with little snow on it,exposed since there is a cliff on the left)otherwise sloppy snow and high to moderate avalanche danger. round trip 6hrs.great views.

gaged? read baged!

thank,s dru for your correction.it will take me some more years to have it 100% in english. i do not think the route had been skied or snowborded,there is too many trees.but the couloir for sure must have been done by a competent guy. also,i forgot to mention we got down the south ridge of silver and gaged mt abiel via e.ridge. back from the saddle got down easy slopes under north face of abiel and down to the lake.i found it to be very safe in avalanche conditions.a good back up trip.

it start,s from the lk.anette trail,but instead going all way to the lake go up and left just past the first culuar and an oppenning.after few minutes of going up yo will see second culuar on your right,continue up a more and more defined buttress at an angle of 40 deg with steeper steps. this buttress will take you all way to nw ridge of silver.as an indicator you will have a prominent rocky feature on your right skyline as you go up.once on the ridge it,s easy going to the summit of silver(1/2mile).i do not think this is a new route but a forgotten one.i climbed it with mr mvs the last week of december and we called it "polish- american bliss"

some people write books,articles,web-sites and some just climb mountains!!!

cpt,caveman!you are the man,just nuck em! i think no one is going to go near pakistan next season,there is a lot of companies advertising trips in pakistan and i just do not see it done.the main hwy between pakistan and china is being targeted.so even trips to mustach-ata are a big???unles they fly people directly to kashgar in china.as of now i wouldn,t go there even on my polish passport.for extremists we are just the same.

well dru,looks like this weather is really impacting your jugement.and yes you should be sorry!otherwise give me a call only if you are serious about it and have been above 20,000ft (not in an airplane)it,s not a commertial,semi- commertial expedittion hi steffan how is your life going,i guess we have not seen much of each other since aconcagua! how did G-II go?my cho-oyu went sour,made only to 24,000ftand can,t wait to get that bugger out of my mind.marek

enyone up there with 26,000ft ambitions? and above 20,000ft expirience? ------------------

david! 1st,from the lake go to south chute 2nd,then desend 100-200ft and go up and left between rebitt ears and some big rock on the right,at first this is loose scree trail and then narrow chute class 3,this tops out at a narrow notch. 3rd,desend 100 ft and go over snow patch again up and left for 200 ft against the rocks. 4th,go counterclockwise to a small ledge up and yet again left class2-3 loose to bigger bench with trail on grassy easy terain 5th you should be at the finger traverse, and one more time aroun the corrner up and left. 6th again counterclocwise to a downsloping slab,keep on the left side against a cliff (it looks not so good but once you get down few feet you will see its a class 3 for a short time and then some easy benches) marek ps, take a rope! quote: Originally posted by David Parker: I sure would like some good beta on finding the finger traverse. I soloed Constance in June via the north chute & terrible traverse. Once you get to the upper pass where you get over onto the east side, (slight descent to get to terrible traverse)where do you go? The climbers guide description just seems confusing to me and I didn't want to get lost by myself. Sure can be confusing up there!

one of the first mountain explorers in afganistan,s hindu-kusz were polish climbers i think poland had some kind of friendship with the afgan,s (most likely motivated by heavy arm,s trade)i can ask around my polish friends for some targettinggg coordinates. and please be careful what you post! talis could read this? quote: Originally posted by Sean Halling: Do you get the Army College Fund with that? "Can I get out if we go to war? I don't really wanna fight, I just wanna sign up for the college money." Heard from a buddy of mine who is now stuck recruiting. Give those **ckers hell!

check out king5.com,there is some info! quote: Originally posted by EddieE: Anybody got any more info?

not to be a smart ass,the elevation gain is around 6,600ft if you are going over lone- tree pass.i did it twice,once in april and then in may.avalanche danger on those occasions was very high,for some reason it always is!!!? on april trip there was snow all way up to the top.on that may trip bergshrund was insurmountable,so i went right and up to the ridge,class4-5?.it is a fantastic peak,but why do it now?if you insist on bushwaking there is some in my back-yard!winter and spring 100%.good luck when the snow comes and wach-out for avalanches!!!!!!!! quote: Originally posted by Dru: Headlamps?