marek
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Everything posted by marek
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mike! enyone summited rainier this winter? eny stories? hope the road open,s when the weather get,s better? marek
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well,i guess while we are on the subject.i was just in the area on 21/22.and got only to lower snow lk.started from snow creek entrance.trail up to snow creek wall,then cross country.above 4,500ft there is about 4 feet of powder,avi danger considerable,so i could not get higher.but the area is just f a n t a s t i c !!!!!!!!!!!! and yes,lots of ice!!!!!!!!!!!
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matt i did some checking,and i have to give it to you. you are right,ipsut creek is the way to go.you do start low but fuck it,at least you are going up! and it is short too.i guess if i ever show up again on liberty,i,ll go this way for a change.
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hey guys!!let,s not change the subject here!! we are talking about winter climb not the summer! and in my view,again.why go back 25+ miles if you have a perfect ways down on the other side. summer time it,s another story.
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i forgot about the decent: it would be best to go down gib ledges or ingraham direct,so you do not have to back track.i hope you are familiar with all of the routes involved. if not!,abandon the climb!!it will save rangers another problem.but it has been done before and i wish you good luck!
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white river entrance is the way to go,but please do not take the bike with you since everything is under the snow.the road will be plowed up to cristal ski place turn off.so it is a long way inn.take skis ang go lite (if you can).wait for a bomber high presure.otherwise see you on the summit,since i,m waiting for a better weather as well.
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just did bryant as per becky,s south aproach. it,s snowsoeing all way to within 250 ft from the summit.stay on the ridge from hemlock pass,there is tree protection to within the last 250ft or so. then you have to go either riht(open avalanche slope)or left (ramp with little snow on it,exposed since there is a cliff on the left)otherwise sloppy snow and high to moderate avalanche danger. round trip 6hrs.great views.
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gaged? read baged!
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thank,s dru for your correction.it will take me some more years to have it 100% in english. i do not think the route had been skied or snowborded,there is too many trees.but the couloir for sure must have been done by a competent guy. also,i forgot to mention we got down the south ridge of silver and gaged mt abiel via e.ridge. back from the saddle got down easy slopes under north face of abiel and down to the lake.i found it to be very safe in avalanche conditions.a good back up trip.
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it start,s from the lk.anette trail,but instead going all way to the lake go up and left just past the first culuar and an oppenning.after few minutes of going up yo will see second culuar on your right,continue up a more and more defined buttress at an angle of 40 deg with steeper steps. this buttress will take you all way to nw ridge of silver.as an indicator you will have a prominent rocky feature on your right skyline as you go up.once on the ridge it,s easy going to the summit of silver(1/2mile).i do not think this is a new route but a forgotten one.i climbed it with mr mvs the last week of december and we called it "polish- american bliss"
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some people write books,articles,web-sites and some just climb mountains!!!
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cpt,caveman!you are the man,just nuck em! i think no one is going to go near pakistan next season,there is a lot of companies advertising trips in pakistan and i just do not see it done.the main hwy between pakistan and china is being targeted.so even trips to mustach-ata are a big???unles they fly people directly to kashgar in china.as of now i wouldn,t go there even on my polish passport.for extremists we are just the same.
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well dru,looks like this weather is really impacting your jugement.and yes you should be sorry!otherwise give me a call only if you are serious about it and have been above 20,000ft (not in an airplane)it,s not a commertial,semi- commertial expedittion hi steffan how is your life going,i guess we have not seen much of each other since aconcagua! how did G-II go?my cho-oyu went sour,made only to 24,000ftand can,t wait to get that bugger out of my mind.marek
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enyone up there with 26,000ft ambitions? and above 20,000ft expirience? ------------------
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david! 1st,from the lake go to south chute 2nd,then desend 100-200ft and go up and left between rebitt ears and some big rock on the right,at first this is loose scree trail and then narrow chute class 3,this tops out at a narrow notch. 3rd,desend 100 ft and go over snow patch again up and left for 200 ft against the rocks. 4th,go counterclockwise to a small ledge up and yet again left class2-3 loose to bigger bench with trail on grassy easy terain 5th you should be at the finger traverse, and one more time aroun the corrner up and left. 6th again counterclocwise to a downsloping slab,keep on the left side against a cliff (it looks not so good but once you get down few feet you will see its a class 3 for a short time and then some easy benches) marek ps, take a rope! quote: Originally posted by David Parker: I sure would like some good beta on finding the finger traverse. I soloed Constance in June via the north chute & terrible traverse. Once you get to the upper pass where you get over onto the east side, (slight descent to get to terrible traverse)where do you go? The climbers guide description just seems confusing to me and I didn't want to get lost by myself. Sure can be confusing up there!
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one of the first mountain explorers in afganistan,s hindu-kusz were polish climbers i think poland had some kind of friendship with the afgan,s (most likely motivated by heavy arm,s trade)i can ask around my polish friends for some targettinggg coordinates. and please be careful what you post! talis could read this? quote: Originally posted by Sean Halling: Do you get the Army College Fund with that? "Can I get out if we go to war? I don't really wanna fight, I just wanna sign up for the college money." Heard from a buddy of mine who is now stuck recruiting. Give those **ckers hell!
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check out king5.com,there is some info! quote: Originally posted by EddieE: Anybody got any more info?
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not to be a smart ass,the elevation gain is around 6,600ft if you are going over lone- tree pass.i did it twice,once in april and then in may.avalanche danger on those occasions was very high,for some reason it always is!!!? on april trip there was snow all way up to the top.on that may trip bergshrund was insurmountable,so i went right and up to the ridge,class4-5?.it is a fantastic peak,but why do it now?if you insist on bushwaking there is some in my back-yard!winter and spring 100%.good luck when the snow comes and wach-out for avalanches!!!!!!!! quote: Originally posted by Dru: Headlamps?
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chriss and myself climbed dome peak sep 23rd all looked,felt,smelled ok.aproach took us 9hrs easy to inswoorth ridge,even if snow covered should not be a problem.dome glacier was in fine condition,we did only one switchback at the top of the glacier.when you get to the col,do not!, please do not! take the ridge directly to the summit,it looks innocently class 3-4,but this s,,,t is so loose it,s not even funny!just put your crampons and go clockwise up to the final summit ridge ,exposed class 3-4. we got back to our camp by 3 pm and back at the car by 11pm.total 16 hrs day.2 day trip for the fit-ones otherwise 3 day trip. ''I WILL BUSHWACK NO MORE!!!!'' ------------------
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chriss and myself did constance on sep 30th via std, rte from lk, constance.if you travel close to each other(as you should!)the rock fall will not kill you.but it is loose!otherwise it took us 14hrs tound trip from the car.we decided not to take crampons, so crossing couple of snow/ice patches took time.basicly i had to chopp steps like they did 100 years ago.finger traverse was fun,but i still would give it a 4th class over 3rd. the expose is dedly.summit ridge funn 3rd class.would we take crampons it would be 12hrs trip.i bet you can still do it! ------------------
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i think sexsual chocolate is right on the money!we should focus on mr,in-shit ranger and systematicly try to get rid of him,i think this is the same ass! that wrote a ticket to one of my climbing buddies.my friend went to court and WON!! just because in-shit ranger missspelled his name! (by the way his name is krzysztof koziarz) i do not mind paying a fee for something,but not this B.S. with day pass.REMEMBER! SYSTEMATICLY,COLD,IN FACE that,s how we got rid of communists in POLAND and surly one stinking,overzelous,lazy ranger will be a small beer for us! quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: Register your complaints at the ranger station! Serious. He's OUR employee, if'n ya know what I mean. Public servant. Just make your complaints respectful and intelligent, so they have the most impact. And don't forget to call and write and email the politicians about the wilderness fee extensions. No renewal. No pay to play. No fees for using our own land! Public lands=no user fees!
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quote: Originally posted by Beck: Hey, Cavey, not the SPD here in Seattle now, they've taken to flaunting this in light of the WTO demonstrations, they were observed at a WTO anniversary march with badge numbers and nametags "convienently" hidden under retroflective vests or other equipment, enough so that there are suits against the SPD at this time. Refusing to identify oneself as an officer of the peace may becomming more standard operating procedure in more jurisdictions, probably on an individual basis- if a LEO is an asshole to citizens, maybe he's got more personal reasons to not to identify themselves. Sorry to all the bros that got harrassed, this truly sounds lame. Not to fan the fires of dissent but I personally believe in paying the 25 bucks a year- call me a toe the line citizen, but if the Gov says pay to play, the only rational recourse is to pay to play- they tell us how much tax we pay, it is a bummer but that's America for you- I know the timber. gas and ranchers are subsidized in the wilderness and we are not, but look at the disastarous effects a group of citizens had on Washington States budget when Tim Eyman's little "free lunch" initives got passed by the citiznry- they said, no car tabs, look what an imbroglio our state's ferries, roads, etc have become- I guess there's no money to fund highways and roads this year and the legislature doesn't go back to session until January- I know the Forest recreation parking pass fund doesn't help climbers much but at the same time 25 does not equal 150 - sorry to hear about all the hassles at the SC parking lot, dudes!! ------------------
