marek

Looking for partner/s to do Black pk or something on the east side due to the weather. Please PM me Marek

Looking for partners for a day trip either up Columbia pk( Monte Cristo area) or Black pk (HWY 20) I have gear, wheels and some expirience. All I ask for is a fit person. I live in SEA area and would like to leave late Tue and then climb on Wed and return to SEA.pm me

Hello Everyone I,ll be hosting a benefit slide show on April 9th at 6:30pm. Event will cover such expeditions and climbs as Shishapangma and Cho-Oyu in Tibet, Huascaran and Aconcagua in the Andes, Denali as well as Cascades. All the money goes to "South End Saints" a CYO track/cross country team that I,m one of the coaches. All the info with time/place is in this link: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=10018&size=big&sort=1&cat=514 Hope you can make it!! Marek

Well ? Again ! I see you still day dreaming about 30 day 8,000m expedition. Again It,s about 2 weeks more ( with out travel SEA-KTM-SEA ) The visa you mentioning for $50 is valid only for 30 days Zangmu-Zangmu. So, what you gonna do when it,s expired or close to expiry date ? I do not want to shoot you and you endavour down, Just be realistic and give yourself more time Conversly, If you are not doing it with a trekking outfit from Nepal you are setting yourself up for things like : 1, delays and loots of them 2, paperwork on site and loots of it 3, language barier ( liason officer is the only one in your plan that speaks your language and he stays at BC permanently ) 4,Tibetan sherpas are far less relaible than the ones from Nepal, can you comunicate with the cook ? small things but they add to YOUR stress at the time you need to think about climbing.

And people buy books ?? This is better!!

007, Do not think you can do this in a month, unless you want to look stupid when you have to go home and summit is far away. Allow at least 2 months SEA-SEA. Lastly, where are you getting those $100 a day Sherpas ? Are they Tibetans ? or Nepali ?, there is a huge difference! I never heared of a Sherpa for a day pay contract !

First of all, Stefan, thank you for giving me at least some credit for knowing a bit about 8,000m peaks. 007 I do not want to sound pessimistic about your chances, after all anything is possible, but here are few things that make me think CAUTION ! 1,You have yet to came clean and let us know what you have done in the mountains. 2,Reading this section I see, you are assuming a lot of things. For example, you write about a class 2 climbing on the easiest 26,000ers. Well, its much harder than you think, examples Cho Oyu: at 6,850m serac is near vertical for 50-70 m depending on the season ( I know it,s fixed most of the time )combination altiude+difficulty+heavy pack.Then higher up above C-3 you have yellow band ( 5th class or do a long d-tour ) and 3rd class rock bands higher up,again depends on season and snow cover. Shishapangma, everyone thisks its no more than 40% angle walk up, wrong!! please see attachement photo, that,s the last pitch to the summit and it,s at least 65 % angle. Same on G-II, the easiest route is rated AD+ with sustained difficulty between C-1 and C-3 (ask Steffan, he knows ) 3,Then you ask questions You should know already at this stage of planning, like acclimatisation. 4,The world of Himalayan climbing is a bit more fucked-up than you think, between shitty or fraudulent trekking agencies," leaders like Dan Mazur, Chineese officials, it,s a loot that can go wrong, a loot, and that,s at a time when you need to concentrate on acclimatisation and climbing. 5, For the past 2 years I tried to organise an expedition usung CC and other sites and failed despite being much more up front than you are. I don,t see this imossible, but at least not likely. 6, For people to join your expedition they have to have a total trust in not only your climbing expirience but also in your finances as well as organisational skills. 7, I see you want to do this cheaply and I,m not certain if that,s the way to go for someone with questionable expirience ( as I see you )I suggest you start looking for an expedition already forming and with greater expedition expirience than your own. Marek

007! There is no easy way up 26,000 er !!!! Get it ? So stop dreaming and start earning your summit dreams. Marek

Nice!! Very Nice Guys ! Intresting, how much snow was on the mountain. It makes going better and more estetic. Back in 97 we had a very nice summit day as well, were even able to stay on top for over an hour and mingle with other summiters.

Hell !! Fuck IT !!! ( excuse my language, please ) I say, lets extend the damm road up to source lk, fill in the lake with dirt, build our own parking looottt, say screw it to the ski area asholes, put our own gate, let no other inn than climbers/hikers/snowshoers etc. And then BOYCOT !!!! Alpental ski operators, by any means example: picketing, internet, staged actions like slowdowns on the Alpental rd etc. And inform them of our plans beforehand. Happyyyy New Year to you too

Will ! Too bad you are not living in Pacific Northwest, it would be educational to go out and practice image taking. It,s also intresting how difrent people notice different pic,s. You are right on with comments regarding south face of Ama Dablam. My wife and myself were involved in a rescue of an Australian trekker in near by Pheriche village and left 2hrs late ( it,s just 30 min walk from the village ) It took me almost an hour to get to the position with active rock runnell. I think part of the problem with contrast and lighting is my cheap scanning device (diamage scan dual III AF-2840) For some reason looks way better on the slide. In addition verry little or no photoshop work was done to the pic,s. 20 p ? personaly i did not like the shot that much myself, but several friends sugested i should include that one too. I hope despite those mistakes i,ll be able to sell them. Thank you for your comments Will.

I guess, just about all the aspects of copyrighting have been covered. I do underestand that the watermarking poses some degree of viewing difficulty. The website was created with a commercial purpose. For someone from ( example ) stock photo agency watermarking is just not affecting the image. Combination of watermark+copyright+low resolution web image was the way we decided to go. About 50 % similar web sites use it ( at least upstarts like myself ). On a personal note, OFF WHITE ! don,t give up just yet ! I still would like to hear comments about images, the ones you like or would never try to publish. Marek www.frozenimage.net

copyrighted with library of congress DC, under "cascade climbers and "frozenimage.net"

That,s funny ? www.frozenimage.net there it is

A friend of mine and myself just finished this web site. It is directed to stock photo agencies, so do not feel like i,m trying to sell anything to you. This is in hopes of generating some funds for my next himalayan dream. Please feel free to comment on images.

Porter

I,m organising small expedition to shishapangma in the spring of 2004 ( end of march ) Anyone interested with above 20,000 ft expirience please check my web site: www.shishapangma.com Marek Wencel

just flew over cascades yesterday returning from chicago basicly everything north of glacier pk was smoke covered and more intense spots around cascade pass area, some more plumes to the north as well.

All i had was 2 days, otherwise 3 days would be more enjoyable. What impressed me a lot in that area was the rocky faces off mt. Buckner ( at the end of thunder valey)

Brian! The way my legs and feet feel now after Logan, i wish i was there with you on WA pass.At least i could do the first rt. Anyway, good report and you did not waste the weekend. marek ps: what,s up with this "classic " or not ? who cares ?!!!!! marek

OFF THE HOOK and myself did Logan on sat-sun. Started at 10am and hiked all 18 miles to the pass/base camp. The trail is in a very good condition up until the last few miles, loot,s of brush there. We kind of suffered on the hike inn because of intense heat.Used Nelson,s directory ( the new one ). The high alpine traverse is basicly a trail for the 1 st mile and then easy alpine slopes up to the 7,660 spire. When you get to go up to the glacier do not bother with checking any of the colls on your left.Just aim up to the ridge line ( freemont glacier ). Glacier is in a good condition with few hooles mid point. Route finding is very obvious. In all class 3 with two sections of short class 4. On the summit day we got up at 5 am and got going at 6 am, got back at 2 pm. On the way up thunder storms we rambling to the west of us and only one cloud with hail/rain hit us for about 10 min on the glacier. Othervise sunny on the summit and to the east, cloudy and bad to the west.We did get few sprinkels on the hike out, but it was to late, we already tagged the summit. On the whole trip, we encountered NO ONE. Where are the climbers ?. Got back to the carrrr Leor at 9:40 pm, me at 11:15, just totaly tired !!!

going to mt logan on sat-sun, early start, freemont glacier. we need one or two for the company. pm me or just call 253-945-1493 marek

here is a better trverse. pacific crest trail !! why ? would anyone do the traverse without doing them pk,s ? no time ? then do something else on those 3 days and do the traverse when you have 5-7 days.

is "campo base " still open in mendoza ? that was a small place to stay few minutes away from city center.it was full of adventure folks staying there.and as far as party town ? i think santiago is much better on the way out, you can have your own private festival at any time.

looking for a partner to do frostbite ridge on glacier or north face of buckner call me at home 253-945-1493 or cell 206-227-3788 marek