marek

PM sent!

Due to my work, I'm in Tokyo 4-5 times a month and did Fuji summer time, but before main hiking/climbing season starts (July 1st) During main season, buses run directly from Shinjuku in Tokyo to Gotemba (trailhead) Outside of the main season, you'll have to get by 2-3 trains to Kawaguchko (small town) Then taxi (about $200) if you are able to go all way to Gotemba+park fee if they are even there. About a mile or so from Gotemba, there is a climbers "Ryoken" old style hotel (no heat, fire pit in the middle, tatami) But, I do not know if its manned in the winter. To save on costs, you should propably get a partner or partners. No one there will speak English, like they do in Tokyo. If you hit it right, the weather in winter is mostly sunny and cold; so perfect! Gambatte kudasai! www.frozenimage.net

Did it twice few years ago; once in late May, and then once in mid April May ascent: bergshrund (30+feet from top) was too wide to surmount, and we had to hit rocks to the right (4th-5th class?) No pro, short rope. Rapped off summit and over shrund. April ascent: snow to within 6feet of the summit, iced up rock thereafter; downclimbed with hand line. At this point, propably wait until it's burried in 2-3 months, and take someone strong; it'll still be 12hrs day! Good luck!!!

Mich auch Michael! Ausgezeichnet! Kaum zu glauben! Vielen Dank

He's going for Polish Direct, so, from C-2 he's got to cross penitentes and then snow/ice to the top; crampons/overboots can be taken off for the descent.

The two times I went up climbing high in South America; Aconcagua and Huascaran, I used plastic boots. Both times I had overboots available at BC and did not use them, and the neglect almost cost me my toes twice. I used plastics+overboots on Denali and in Himalaya, and I had no problems! Think this way: slow going over penitentes; burried up to your balls in snow, and/or belaying somone in the dark or early in a day/shadow. Just get them plastic boots+overboots

“We are stuck on the mountain due to lack of support from the expedition leader, Henry Todd” vented Yuri Contreras earlier today. “Our entire team has only 5 Sherpas, clearly unable to carry equipment for 15 climbers! Therefore, we have had to climb loaded with heavy backpacks, cook our own food and melt snow for water.” This just today's info from Mt Everest.net news THEY had to carry their own shit, cook they own fucking food, and what? Did they break they own tail, fix lines? Marek www.frozenimage.net

Dze weather!

Looking for partner for West Ridge or East Ledges/ One day push! PM me or marek@frozenimage.net My stats are here: www.frozenimage.net

Some of you might recall my posts back in November 2007, on Cascade Climbers and NWHikers, with request for images for calendars. I received tens of submissions, and many more e-mails and suggestions, for which I thank each and everyone. Well, here are the fruits of hard work and determination of the past six months. First we had to put together a catalog, and then market calendars to bookstores, distributors and wholesalers, thereafter calendars had to be designed, edited and printed. You are the judge, but I think we did a very good job putting together fine calendars! Calendars feature photography by Don Geyer and Marek Wencel-Cascade Climbers members and frequent contributors, as well as Kevin Ebi-Seattle based landscape photographer. (ALL LOCAL!) Please visit photographers’ websites for more detailed viewing and purchases: http://www.frozenimage.net/ http://www.mountainscenes.com/ http://www.livingwilderness.com/ We thank local outdoor community, CascadeClimbers, NWHikers and local outdoor stores, which gracefully continue to allow our presence. Safe Travels! Marek Wencel

Chris, Just sent you e-mail with my stats and cell number; lets talk details. Marek

If the weather is only good on Monday, then we would leave Seattle on Sunday supper early (2am isch?) Be fit, be democrat and have your own gear. I can drive, but we'll split gazzzz costs. Gustav's therafter, right? Here is the link: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/783268#Post783268

tvashtarkatena Thanx! I found that link too. Nice job you guys did; its been on my list for a while. Safe Travels!

Hey, Anyone got a frontal picture of the route, or more route description?

I forgot, here is my TR on NWhikers. http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?p=353591#353591 ps, I lifted your topo

Hey Telemarker Thanks for your TR! I used all your info and did it yesterday. Foremost, I liked the shortcut up Pioneer Creek. Now, to get to the NE Ridge, I had to go all way around the south side, over a saddle (NW corner) summited wrong peak at the far NW corner, traversed North Face, hook up with your tracks to the top. How did you access the north side below the NE runnel?

Ann, don't feel bad about it. I did the same thing there on Feb 17th; it took me 30min to get our 2 60m ropes out; I just tied end of the rope back into my harness and then pulled down as hard as I could/ eventually it gave in. Marek ps, re-post in relevant section; Alpine Lakes

Nice! Very nice guys! Excellent effort, and to the summit! We did your lower face variation(yesman, me and 2 others)two years ago, it was steep indeed! We've got to about one pitch away from the top of the face, after we were plowing trench for 22 hrs. Nice!

Bummer. I love skiing in that area during winter and spring, plus occasional kayaking. That road has been hit hard in recent years! No problem, just ride your bike!

Oct 27-28 Kuba and myself, climbed Pyramid Peak and Snowfield Peak this past weekend. We left Seattle at 5 am and hit the trail at 8am or so. While we were yakking the trail to Pyramid Lake went fast and uneventful; so much so, we lost a “clue” No, it wasn’t Blues Clues! (But that’s later) The real “trail” hit us past the lake, and after each bulge we were comparing it with other Nasty tails! Kuba’s first choice was Eldorado, mine Mt Constance, and then on we went to Mailbox Peak, Mt Challenger and trail right next to waterfall on approach to Redoubt. Simply put it; we hated it. The first snow was at 4K feet, and permafrost at 5K feet; all major obstacles were passed on the right side (west side), it was easy to loose the trail, but since my friend Jake and me got rained on SF about a year ago, I still remembered most of the way. To get to the Colonial glacier, one has to do almost horizontal traverse from the top of Pyramid Ridge; it was a steep slope with unconsolidated snow (not enough to avalanche) I remember doing it in zero visibility about a year ago, and it felt as spooky this time. [img http://picasaweb.google.com/frozenimage/UntitledAlbum02/photo#5128288797292067282[/img] A word of caution for everyone here; the ENTIRE NE Face of Pyramid goes this way, and as we discovered crossing final snow slopes near the summit of Pyramid, the slopes are at perfect angle to load with snow and avalanche. (3K feet down!) We reached our high camp at 3pm (7hrs), set up camp, ate some brew and up again; this time with one light pack. At the last moment we decided not to gear up or bring rope, which proved to be right decision. The going was easier than anticipated, and we summited Pyramid Peak at sunset. (1 1/2hrs) [img http://picasaweb.google.com/frozenimage/UntitledAlbum02/photo#5128288801587034594[/img] Our original intention on that first day, was to go for Colonial, but we were missing an hour of daylite and thus decided to go for Pyramid. [img http://picasaweb.google.com/frozenimage/UntitledAlbum02/photo#5128288805882001906'>http://picasaweb.google.com/frozenimage/UntitledAlbum02/photo#5128288805882001906[/img] During the night, the weather stayed ok, with occasional gusts, full moon and on and off rolling clouds. Luckily for us the weather held and we got up at 5am and started plowing Colonial Glacier towards high pass (6,900ft) at 6:30am and 45min later we started descending 260ft to Neve Glacier. [img http://picasaweb.google.com/frozenimage/UntitledAlbum02/photo#5128288814471936514[/img] This thing was big, bigger than one could imagine; a perfect ski run! And to our surprise, there was no one around! The going on Neve Gl was easy with minimal crevasses somewhere midpoint or so. We got to 7,700feet ridge line just past 9am and started hiking easy slopes to 8,200 feet level. From then on our “several” descriptions led us to the South West side, to direct W Ridge or in to a gully and the North side. After few minutes of scouting, we opted to the last option. Into a gully, going, straight up to a first Col, and exiting mid point left (3rd class step) to a rib, then we went up the rib for 50ft (still 3rd class) To an obvious point where one can get left and down and off the rib, onto a snowy ramp (4 class step) next I followed this ramp (narrow and exposed) to the second Col (end of pitch one) From the second Col, we traversed more snow and ice fields/steps to a final snow gulley to the top.(end of pith two) One can also go straight up the rocky ridge from the end of pith one (class 3-4) [img http://picasaweb.google.com/frozenimage/UntitledAlbum02/photo#5128288784407165378[/img] [img http://picasaweb.google.com/frozenimage/UntitledAlbum02/photo#5128288969090759186[/img] It was very windy on top and we did not linger too long, the wind was so strong, that it took me 3 times to toss the rope, before it wasn’t blown towards north face. We then rappelled the above ridge and belayed the lower section, getting to 7,700 level at 2pm Then on it took us only 1hr and 15min to get back to our camp. At this point, if we were able to pack up and eat in 45min, then we were back on track and on our pre-set schedule-reed, DO NOT GET SCREWED IN THE FORREST! This time, it took us only 30min for terrible traverse and off we were, following our tracks and pushing tempo. Our goal was, to get a hell out of there and down to the lake before dark. FULES! As the snow disappeared, so did our tracks and we have more difficulties of following our trail? At one point we ended up 50 feet above the trail and decided (well? I decided, and Kuba foolishly followed) to go over a brushy cliff with mossy slab. 25 seconds later and with bunch of moss on my ass I was on the “right” trail. Kuba decided to ditch his pack first, so he tossed it so skillfully that it bounced of the slab, over the trail, right through the bushes and making funny noises, there it stopped 100feet below. He watched in disbelieve, as I stood there, and did nothing! We then continued into the deep forest, loosing the trail more and more frequently, with all of the detours and searches for trail costing us more time. So, there we were, about an hour above the lake, pitch black and headlamps on. Somehow again, we got off of “our” trail onto the one with boulder field, but at this point we knew we were SAFE above the lake; so we thought!!! Anyway, few minutes later we were working our way around the lake, more less cross country, until we found the trail again. And this is where OUR trouble started. In one hour of searching for pyramid lake trail, we crossed the stream outlet 6 times, climbed few hundred feet up some peak, reversed tracks 3 times, and searched all side trails. Looked at our maps 4-5 times, arguing with each other if we ever crossed the stream. After all I was wrong saying, we didn’t, because we did! So, everyone! The trail from the lake down, starts about 40-50 feet from the stream crossing (lake outlet) on the Eastern side of the lake!! After we found our way out, it was only an hour or so to the car. Marek www.frozenimage.net Did I mantion, I still have some Mountaineering Calendars left! http://www.frozenimage.net/calendar.html

I still need images! Since I have plenty of submissions in Mountain Landscape, I now need more Mountaineering Images, Ski, Snowboard, Ice climbing, etc. I also need some nature shots,alpine flowers,alpine medows. Projects need to be copleted soon, do not delay! I also have calendar sale, please visit! Massive Calendar SALE!!! Great idea for holiday gift! http://www.frozenimage.net/calendar.html or see add on CascadeClimbers Offer valid ONLY until October 31st!! Buy 1 get ONE FREE!!! or Buy 2 get TWO FREE!! Simply buy one calendar or 3pack and receive 1 Extra FREE Calendar Buy from a local climber/CascadeClimbers member and SAVE!!! Safe Travels!

Dear Climbers! Images are needed for new calendar and note card projects. --Originals must be in 35mm slide or larger format --Digital format JPEG, TIFF, RAW at around 3600x2400 300dpi or higher If you are a stock photo agency, marketing someone else’s images, I’m not interested. I would like images taken by climbers/skiers/hikers/mountaineers that can write paragraph about how the photo was taken. Please take a look at my site http://www.frozenimage.net/ Those that do not know about me, I am a local climber and frequent CC visitor, I started calendar business a year ago and I’m expanding to keep up with the market. Although I specialize in mountaineering and mountain landscape theme calendars, submissions can cover different subjects (see below) Since I am an upstart, my rates are below those on the market, but it could be a place to start for aspiring photographers. There are no minimum submission quantity (like most, if not all stock photo agencies have) Accepted photos will get authors credit and links to his/her site, including (if possible) short bio. So this could be your marketing tool too!! Subjects requested: --Mountaineering, rock climbing, ice climbing, skiing, etc (worldwide) --Mountain landscape (North America) --Adventure sports (especially under full weather conditions) (North America) --Water sports (kayaking, windsurfing, sailing, white water rafting etc) --North American landscape (it does not have to be mountains) --Four season landscape/nature shots Pictures can be submitted via one of the ways: -e-mail low resolution images to marek@frozenimage.net (3-4 or so) -send link to your own site -burn low resolution CD and send to: DO NOT SEND ORIGINALS! Frozenimage.net 1048 S 264th St Des Moines, WA 98198

Man! I see it now, you really have to look for that faint yellow line. Yup! Bad Ass line!

How about some description? Drew a line on Dragontail's photo which way U went! Otherwise we do not know where? what? when?

Trip: Mt Roosvelt Mar 15 - STD Date: 3/20/2007 Trip Report: I guess I got lucky with rhe weather on Thursday, so off I was. Left home at 4:30am and while driving to S-Pass I realized! I forgot my headlamp; no problem, a quick stop at N Bend gas station and $5 less in my pocket off I was to Alpental. At 6am, right before I left my car, the darn flashlite stopped working! OK! back to the car and wait while listening a bit more to NPR News and more Bush bashing! Left at 6:45am and blazed to Source Lk in 30min. There was 3" Fluff on top of hard snow and the going was perfect. 30min later I was at Snow Lk (frozen! Yes!)then forward (again I had ideal conditions) I had a significant help from high Cirrus clouds blocking clouds and thus the fluff stayed dry. the last 500ft or so was quite steep and exposed; right up to 50% or so, of rimed up and hard snow, mixed with unconsolidated stuff. Topped at 11am and back at the car at 1:30pm. Looking at the NF of Chair; it looked all good to go and plastered with white stuff. Marek