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marek

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  1. marek

    Mt Logan TR

    All i had was 2 days, otherwise 3 days would be more enjoyable. What impressed me a lot in that area was the rocky faces off mt. Buckner ( at the end of thunder valey)
  2. Brian! The way my legs and feet feel now after Logan, i wish i was there with you on WA pass.At least i could do the first rt. Anyway, good report and you did not waste the weekend. marek ps: what,s up with this "classic " or not ? who cares ?!!!!! marek
  3. OFF THE HOOK and myself did Logan on sat-sun. Started at 10am and hiked all 18 miles to the pass/base camp. The trail is in a very good condition up until the last few miles, loot,s of brush there. We kind of suffered on the hike inn because of intense heat.Used Nelson,s directory ( the new one ). The high alpine traverse is basicly a trail for the 1 st mile and then easy alpine slopes up to the 7,660 spire. When you get to go up to the glacier do not bother with checking any of the colls on your left.Just aim up to the ridge line ( freemont glacier ). Glacier is in a good condition with few hooles mid point. Route finding is very obvious. In all class 3 with two sections of short class 4. On the summit day we got up at 5 am and got going at 6 am, got back at 2 pm. On the way up thunder storms we rambling to the west of us and only one cloud with hail/rain hit us for about 10 min on the glacier. Othervise sunny on the summit and to the east, cloudy and bad to the west.We did get few sprinkels on the hike out, but it was to late, we already tagged the summit. On the whole trip, we encountered NO ONE. Where are the climbers ?. Got back to the carrrr Leor at 9:40 pm, me at 11:15, just totaly tired !!!
  4. going to mt logan on sat-sun, early start, freemont glacier. we need one or two for the company. pm me or just call 253-945-1493 marek
  5. here is a better trverse. pacific crest trail !! why ? would anyone do the traverse without doing them pk,s ? no time ? then do something else on those 3 days and do the traverse when you have 5-7 days.
  6. is "campo base " still open in mendoza ? that was a small place to stay few minutes away from city center.it was full of adventure folks staying there.and as far as party town ? i think santiago is much better on the way out, you can have your own private festival at any time.
  7. looking for a partner to do frostbite ridge on glacier or north face of buckner call me at home 253-945-1493 or cell 206-227-3788 marek
  8. overall i,m with matt,s opinion at 90%. but i do not agree with you on the wand,s deal. either winter or summer wands are needed, add to that compass and anyone should be safe.personaly i think no one should take stove or sleeping bag for the summit ( unless you intend to stay there overnite ) what,s up with big groups ? too big!!!!. 2-3 climber teams operate better/faster and if there is a problem you know it right then.
  9. leaving on thursday, 2 day trip. let me know if interested. marek
  10. for those that done the traverse. where would i find good description of the route ? something more than beckey. i know already the way up and down of dome pk, and agree that bit of bushwalk sucked on the way home. what is the real duration 5 or 7 days?? we have done dome pk in 2 days as a measure.
  11. stefan one thing for sure, whatever you see on the map as a logging road could possibly be a mini bushwalk.i was just there 2 weeks ago, with 2 feet of new snow i had to turn around from about 1/3 of the ridge ( std, west ridge ) take a bike with you, it will make things easy on the way home.i,ll be there on sunday , again! marek
  12. that lower section of the route is quite rotten.my hand was hit by a big rock right at the entrance onto the ridge. it was a left hand,it sweel a bit and hurt tremendosly and since then you climb on the right side of the ridge i had to use my left hand.after i took some aspirin at the thumb rock,things got better the next day.second day after leaving camp on the left side snow slope,our leader got hit on his knee.we pached him up a bit and he was good to go but after a while he was still bleading.it was actual blod trail.lastly when we were going around the black piramid a bunch of rocks fell at my friend chriss koziarz. would there be no beley,he would be gone via thermogenessis.out of four of us only one guy got out with no scratch.it was mid june and carbon was still ok to cross.it,s a nice route but not to be taken as an easy one.
  13. i,m sorry ? dru , who said" american climbers sucks" about 99.9999 % of my partners are americans. so why don,t you just chill ! and do a post # 9734.
  14. finaly a positive report! i did mt tiggerr with my son and 3 other kids.sorry ! i could not drive to the top.but i,ll say small front wheel cars are the best ! i have a ford escort and that thing been everywere.if i got suck in the mud i would slap chains on and carry on.once on mt shuksan we teemed up with 3 others that came up from price glacier and i helped and drove them back from the start of sulpide gl. to the north side.imagine 6 guys (stinky guys!!!) plus all the gear in my small ponny.smal cars rule!!!!
  15. looking for partners with 20,000 ft expirience. please respond only if you are intrested and been high up looking for motivated climbers who want their first 26,000ft summit
  16. i don,t think a hard ass russian climber would want to climb with someone who,s name is all over this web site. climb ! instead of writing or worst, piss off russian climbers!!!! polish climber
  17. anyone feels motivated for a climb on tue-wed ? give me a call 253-945-1493. gib ledges or ID , i have wheels and climbed mt rainier a number of times.
  18. anyone motivated for mt rainier on tuesday/wednsday ? give me a call 253-945-1493 gib ledges or ingraham direct i have wheels and been up the hill few times.
  19. marek

    Big Four

    well,since we are on the subject ! friend of mine and myself climbed big-4 in the summer via dry creek rte.big B. in his book tells you to go to the right on the final rock wall ( at the end of the couloir ) and it is to be class 3 climbing ? for us it looked very shitty on the right plus there was large moat,so we went up in the middle class 4 with some class 5 moves,totaly loose stuff and we never protected.on the way down we still could not find this class 3 rte.what we found was rappel slings on the left (south ) side of the wall. so ! is there a class 3 finish up there ? and where ? othervise it was a nice summit and suprising snow cap.
  20. toast do not know the exact elevation for the turn.best follow the trail as best as you can to the long traverse to lk,anette,then you will pass the first couloir (about 30 ft wide) then shortly an oppening.start going up on the far side of the oppening ,you will see another gutter on the right (just keep it on the right) the forested slope will slowly narrow with some rocks and trees.40-45 deg.that will go up to nw ridge of silver) take right for about a 3/4 mile to the summit.up to that point its very avi safe,no problem.the slope going down to the col. with abiel is wide and open at first but then there is trees and getting flat. so the only danger could be the upper slope of silver.as far as abiel,it could be done in some problematic snow since there is plenty of trees for protection.all you need is ice ax and crampons.on the way down go down and under the north face of abiel and then go down to the west side of the lk.the trail back is at the nw corner of the lk, marek
  21. sorry guys i kept you waiting for so long with my reply!!!!just working!!! first off all,it,s not about ones climbing record or ability,its about respect.in my opinion mr, adamson was disrespectful on numerous occasions with his comments to posts written on cc. cpt,caveman if you think i need a chill pill,let me know if you want me to foward to you e-mail i got from michael adamson.but let me warn you it is full of obscenities,vulgar and thretening. and to you michael-you ever send to me one more e-mail like this i,ll walk down the street to the police dep. and let them handle your case. be a sport!!!stop bashing climbers on cc ,post some report,s of yours and then you might get the respect of others.you can,t have it both ways. i hope this ends this epic.
  22. what i hate the most is people that do noting comment on things they have no idea about. great job mvs ,climbing tooth is far better than skiing blue runs at alpental or worse, pretend you are someone you are not!! i have not red a report from you mr adamson, and all my friends are telling me you are suck!!! is that so ?? how about a summit photo on rainier can you climb the hill ?? let me know smart ass!!!
  23. some of you americans are funny!! it,s like an ambulance going in one direction and cars pulling over on the opposite side of the highway. THINK before you spit at someone!!! that,s my 5 polish cent,s
  24. you guys! south america is cheap!!almost anyone can put a trip for a grand inc ticket. it,s up to any of us to make a decision and go for it aconcagua,ilimani or hurascaran it,s just the same.people are friendly,safety far better than in asia."MAKE IT HAPPEN" as scott fisher used to say.
  25. well,the last i checked on the web site.there was no box for expeditions.so mt rainier being high up,would fit the profile for climbers being interested in high mountains.i just used common sense and shared the information.i stop there!
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