says climber mired in 5.10 climbing for uh 43,000 posts!
Rock Warrior's Way is great reading, and applicable in other areas of one's life, me thinks.
Performance Rock Climbing is good too, i think, and has been inspiring and fun for me.
I think the biggest thing is to take the workouts suggested, and then STICK TO THEM! that's the hard part, is simply starting a training program and sticking to it for a cycle of maybe 6-8 weeks. If one does that, tries and works hard, then results are pretty much guaranteed. it's actually kinda boringly scientific, because anyone can do it, if they want. the body responds to a training stimulus when healthy and properly nourished.