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telemarker

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Everything posted by telemarker

  1. Geoff, I for one am looking forward to your tourettes-style narration to the slideshows.
  2. Ask Kyle Flick and TeleRoss how much of a "quick jaunt" that is... Umm...that would be the other freeheel'r! Flagpole is doable in a good day via Little Annapurna
  3. Jens and Sol, you guys are amazing, and a great compliment to have the expertise of Max taking such incredible shots.
  4. Hmmm...it's not Spineless Prow (CAG, p. 279)?
  5. Or you can just rap Snow Creek Wall's chain anchors down Edge Of Space. Three double rope raps to 2 tree ledge, then a single to the ground. This is my preferred choice descent these days...
  6. Thanks for sharing the story and photos! This is my dream free-solo pitch. What a great route.
  7. Thanks! What good is a TR if it doesn't have a pic of Colchuck Lake?? At least I got the region correct...
  8. Oops! Thanks Craig. Where were you? Can the moderator fix this??
  9. Trip: Whine Spire - El Gato Sucio Date: 7/19/2009 Trip Report: Pat Sullivan (spiderman) and Kyle Flick (Kyle Flick) and I climbed this bad boy. We surmised the route name Gato Negro came from the abundant lichen on the route, especially the thick shag carpet on the false summit. I don't have much to add as there was a recent report from Alford. I do have to say that it would take a lot more ascents to get this route clean. There are many sections of good climbing, with equal parts kitty litter. If you've climbed the "rotten block" pitch of Liberty Crack, then you know what kitty litter is. Also, it should be stated that the descent is just as serious as the climbing, perhaps even more so. There is a lot of committing downclimbing involved, on time-bomb rock, impossible to do in the dark if you were unlucky enough to top out in fading light. This took us 16 hours car-to-car in a team of three, climbing efficiently. Descent Beta: Downclimb 20 feet from the summit/false summit notch, and turn skier's left to locate slingage. One double rope rap got us to the downclimbing. No falling allowed. About 300 feet lower, amongst the choss and hanging boulders, locate slingage skier's left. We beefed it up a bit, so it should be easier to locate. Another double-rope rap and we were able to sketch to the bottom of the gully from there. Overall, decent climb. Horrendous descent, which may be out of proportion to the climbing. First Pitch Mantel: 3rd Pitch Money Pitch: Kitty Litter Stoke: Sharing the Descent Stoke: U Could Be Here: Last But Not Least, Colchuck Lake: Gear Notes: Doubles up to #2 Camalot. Single #3, #4 Camalot Approach Notes: Nice Approach!
  10. Describe it, some of the photos on it, some of the positions you and your s/o are in (kidding!) and I will return it to you!
  11. You know, if I came up with a list of all the areas where I would want to free solo, Peshastin Pinnacles would unequivocably be at the very bottom. In fact, it wouldn't even be close to making the list... Downclimbing swauk sandstone is a lost art I've heard.
  12. Oh! The fish! Dammit, I forgot. Okay, my next trip up there, which will be soon of course, I will get the "fish jumping in Colchuck Lake" photo.
  13. Thanks! The descent is 95% snow-free, with some plunge-stepping back to the packs.
  14. Cool TR. Like Kyle said, it is in a cool locale, with the climbing being okay for the most part. It would make a great alpine solo scramble!
  15. Trip: Colchuck Balanced Rock - West Face Date: 7/3/2009 Trip Report: I know, over TR'd, but oh well... I caddied for Pat Sullivan (Spiderman) last Friday on Colchuck Balanced Rock. Pat birdied the first two 5.11 cruxes, and bogied the 5.12 pitch, just missing the on-sight of the route. He rested a bit, scoped and sent the crux easily. Following are some photos: For Bug, Lake Colchuck from CBR: Fierce Crack: Starting then through the roof crux: 5.12 Pitch: Busted Cam: Near Summit, Vertical Pan: Gear Notes: Doubles up to #3 Camalot. 1x #4. Approach Notes: Yeah, you get to avoid Aasgard.
  16. Nice write-up and photos Tazz! Way to get after it. I'll have to make my way up there one of these days.
  17. Thanks. Busted. I originally stitched a grizz in there, but thought that was a little much.
  18. Deer - far left, where the first boulder meets the lake. Nice pictures John! Way to enjoy a great day in the Enchantments. Thanks! Keen eye Toko!
  19. I find myself reading TR's on routes that have been posted dozens of times too. I don't mind, so I'll keep spewing them out too. Bug: No fish in the lake, but you didn't notice the deer in the first pic?
  20. If Wenatchee had a gym, I'd give up outdoor climbing altogether. Just sack up and lead it without the #5! So, which route are you doing this Friday again??!! Zonk, just wait for my Colchuck/Dragontail traverse TR.
  21. Thanks. Good job on your climbs up there! Not trying to be smug, but the off-width carries more hype than it deserves. For example the o/w pitch on Prusik's Burgner/Stanley, also rated 5.9 feels much more desperate than Backbone's o/w. On backbone, it's low-angled, has great features for the right foot, you can fit your entire left thigh in the crack and use it as a cam, so much so that I've quit bringing the #6 Camalot because it's useless after this one pitch. The rest of the climbing on Backbone is fun and well-protected!
  22. Found on lower part of Backbone Ridge.
  23. oh, and also found this near the bottom of the route: One Merrell Siren Sport, US sz 10,left with a superfeet bed. I'd be happy to send it back to its owner...
  24. Trip: Colchuck Cirque - Backbone Ridge Date: 6/27/2009 Trip Report: Wow. Busy weekend out in the alpine. Matt and I had our own fun. Besides Liberty Crack last yer, this was his first ever long venture into the alpine environs. Climb went off really well. Flawless day. A tidy 8 hours on route and 9pm, headlamp-less return to the car had me smiling. Some photos: Gear Notes: Med. rack to 3.5"
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