telemarker

I assume you're going to climb one of the rock routes. To avoid the hard snow/ice on the backside of Dragontail, you can hike due east around the backside of the Witch's Tower formations, then scramble easily down (north) to the main Enchantments trail back to Asgaard Pass.

Cute...

Wonderful write-up Jens! Way to persist!

Looking for a team to let me tag along for the first two pitches of the lower ridge of Stuart. After that I will be out of your hair! Shoot me a PM if you can, or call: 509-699-9810. Thanks! John

Dude I'm no badass. I'm a solid 5.9 climber! Being a solid 5.9 free-soloist in the alpine (while enchaining big, committing peaks) is NOT the same as being a solid 5.9 climber. Admit it: You are a bad-ass, whether you like it or not! I'm a hack. I shake and rattle my way up most 5.10's.

Dude I'm no badass. I'm a solid 5.9 climber! I agree with Pete. I don't know you but I read your TRs and you've apparently come a long way from this.... Aiding CBR Soloing OS is one thing, soloing it after a full-on beat-down day like that....ANOTHER! My hats off to you but fess up, where's the motivation coming from!? Thanks! I'm not quite sure what motivates me. Never really looked into it. It's enough for me to just get out and do it on routes well within my ability and are fun.

Yeah, that orange alien on the Remorse start on Snow Creek Wall is enduring testament to our learning curve.

Thanks Tazz!

Dude I'm no badass. I'm a solid 5.9 climber!

Thanks. Yeah, I'll pay for it on Monday morning when I have a ton of calls to return.

. Interersting CraigM wonder where I went wrong...?

hah! Vanity has no boundaries! Actually it was at this point - had to take my pack off so I thought 'what the hell, may as well snap a photo.'

Thanks! The stress was trying to get down Toketie drainage. Other than that, it went pretty smooth. The walk up 8 Mile Road was bad. Nothing like skinning in September!

Thanks! Yes, the backyard isn't so bad around here!

Trip: Enchantment Traverse - Continuing Bromance With Peter Croft Date: 9/18/2009 Trip Report: Having been a bit disappointed at getting shut down on the Mt. Stuart leg of my traverse, I obsessed the following week on the 2nd half of it: Dragontail-Prusik-Snow Creek Wall (optional, maybe happened, maybe not). I knew there would be more water than I could ever drink, and an easy trail to turn the mind off. Both of these factors were reassuring. Friday, I got the day off work, grabbed the weather window and hit it. I stashed my bike at the Snow Creek trailhead, and drove to Stuart Lake T.H. For Dragontail, I chose Backbone Ridge because it's a better route than Serpentine. I relish the exposure for the four pitches on the fin. The off width was a bar fight as usual, and I ended up having to take my pack off 1/2 up the pitch and hang it from my chalk bag strap. This pitch out of the way, the rest of the route went well and was incredbly fun. I hung out briefly on the empty summit, and busted it for Prusik. I walked out out on the snowfield and found it icy. I saw myself sliding for life in my tennis shoes and made the executive decision to head east around the south side of Witche's Tit, and descend that way. This was convenient and didn't add any extra time to the day. Prusik Peak, the next stop on the Croft tour. The West Ridge held no surprises. The solid, reliable granite was a welcome contrast to Backbone's sometimes suspect holds. Being without a rap rope this time, climbed the slab and downclimbed it just to make sure I could do it. Again, I got to an empty summit, the theme for the day. Downclimbing took 15 minutes, much faster than the raps! From there, I made the only wrong decision of the day, which was to descend through Shield/Mese/Toketie Lakes. I thought I would be able to cut off time vs. the snow lakes descent. I knew from past experience the Toketie drainage spits you out approximately 1/4 mile from the snow creek wall trail. And, from what I remembered the trail was very direct. Hiking by Shield and Mesa lakes, with Temple Ridge forming a picket fence behind them, I was reminded just how beautiful these lakes were. Enhanced by the fact they were deserted too. I got to Toketie Lake quickly enough, snapped a few shots of imposing Toketie Wall, and this is where the fun ended. The last time I descended Toketie drainage, it was fairly straightforward with minimal schwacking. That was about 6 years ago. Now, brush is everywhere. At times it was over my head. Add to that brush endless downfall. Brittle branches collapsing under my feet. Endless logs to cross. And no sign of any trail. I was even cliffed out a couple times. I saw my chances on Outer Space slipping slowly by, pissed off at myself for not taking the snow lakes trail. I finally hit the valley bottom, and found a good log to cross snow creek, but it was 6:15 already. Dannible mentioned enthusiasm ebbing and flowing. Though demoralised by the eternal schwack down Toketie, I hit one of those bursts. I got to the log crossing at snow creek wall and didn't even have to decide. I grabbed the chalk and shoes and headlamp and headed up. Physically I knew I could do it given this newfound energy. Mentally, I was wary. And there were a couple moments on Outer Space where I had to force myself to just concentrate on the next foothold. But overall, Outer Space went as expected, topping out in fading light. I was able to sprint down the backside reaching the base of SCW right at dark. I reached my bike and started the slow ride mostly uphill. About 1 mile from 8 mile road, I noticed my right peddal feeling lopsided, and by the Classic Crack crag, it snapped off completely. I was shocked. This bike is a workhorse, having taken me from Astoria to Tijuana without even a flat tire! I coasted down to the start of 8 Mile Road, dismounted and started walking back to the Stuart Lake Trailhead. And believe me, the irony was not lost on me. Details: Hiking: 6:00am Climbing Backbone: 9:07am Summit: 11am Base of W. Ridge Prusik: 1:28pm Summit: 1:58pm Snow Creek Wall Crossing: 6:20pm Start Outer Space: 6:33pm Top Outer Space: 7:21 Back at Crossing: 7:58 Back at car: 11:15pm Mid-offwidth shell shock Colchuck Bidding adieu to the offwidth Greeting the rest of the route Fun fin cracks Summit Rainier from Dragontail Looking towards Prusik Summit Prusik Toketie Lake and Toketie Wall Top of Outer Space, SCW

sucker...er...partner found! Thanks!

Looking for a partner for Sunday. Depending on how I feel Sunday, I'm up for eithe cragging or something more alpine-ish. Rather not do a heinous approach. Bong Buttress comes to mind. Iconoclast or anything on snow creek wall would be good too. Shoot me a text, call 509-699-9810, or PM and we can hash out some idears. John

The descent down Stuart over to Sherpa is a scree slide only. I had lightweight crampons for the glacier crossing. No axe needed.

Holy crap. I've never been to Goode, but from what I understand that's a huge solo day. The psychological deal breaker for me was being in a state of dehydration and knowing I had close access to an easy descent with plentiful water.

Gracias Jefe! Nice meeting you guys last week!

Thanks Pete!

Wow. The problem with your friend's skipping summits is that as far as I got, it would have been more exhausting below the crest. I found the smoothest route was either on the crest or just below it. The scrub larches were a hastle. I would need younger legs for this one to come true! Or a gallon of water.

I downclimbed to the east from the summit for the descent. There weren't any issues in terms of route finding, since the easiest path through was on or near the crest. That made decisions pretty simple.

Trip: Bitch Slapped by Peter Croft - Stuart Range traverse attempt Date: 9/12/2009 Trip Report: How the hell did he do it? Croft must be superhuman. Or I'm a crap climber. Both explanations are correct. I guess the purtiy of it was doomed from the beginning as soon as I drove and parked near the trailhead. By the time I got above Stuart Lake, I had made the decision not to start my climb on the lower ridge, since I wasn't entirely sure about free-soloing the 2nd pitch, which is a bit insecure finger/thin hand crack. Plus, I was already getting winded. So I wimped out and headed for the notch. From there, the climbing was dreamy as usual entirely absent of other climbers The gendarme pitches went off great. I summitted at a decent hour in the day, psyched to get over to Sherpa, then Argonaut then Colchuck. Turns out I was actually on crack. I summitted Sherpa Peak about 1 hour 45 minutes after summitting Stuart. I had run out of water by the time I was 1/2 way to Argonaut. I was sluggish and totally dehydrated, with the bonk not far behind. I dragged ass back to Sherpa/Argonaut Col and retreated to water and the trail, wondering in amazement at Croft's accomplishment all the way down to Mountaineer's Basin. Despite the lackluster effort, I was pleased to get at least Sherpa in, as I had never summitted it before. The approach from Stuart really is pretty good. For the number crunchers out there: Left Car: 3:00am Stuart's Notch: 8:00am Gendarme: 8:45am Summit Stuart: 9:30am Summit Sherpa: 11:11am Sherpa/Argonaut Col: 12:47pm Car: 6:09pm From the Notch, looking east: The best two pitches of the day: Summit in perfect early fall weather: Sherpa Summit. I carry the balanced rock on my shoulder whenever I go out climbing: Looking back at the summit of Stuart: Gear Notes: Chalkbag, shoes, and not enough water. 60m, 7mm static bail/rap line (not used). Approach Notes: Stuart Lake Approach, Sherpa/Argonaut deproach.

Umm...that would be the other freeheel'r! Flagpole is doable in a good day via Little Annapurna TeleRoss, telemarker... I knew it was tele something! The search function was in the shitter the day I posted that, so I went with the tele* that came to mind first. My bad, telemarker. No prob! I blend in with all the other tele'ers. But we eastsiders have to stick together...