telemarker

We climbed at 4th of July crag recently, and noted a few climbs worthy of some ASCA attention. 1) Facelift. The last two bolts are old with leeper hangers. 2) Beer and Loafing. The piton that protected an awkward move around the shallow corner pulled out while I was being lowered. The last pro before that piton is a couple body lengths below that. The hole from the piton scar does not look like it would take any natural pro, and the shallow corner is too pinched off. I think a bolt would be warranted at this spot on the pitch. Fun climbing that crag! A bit dirty but great routes. Is Kurt still actively replacing bolts?

Great video of the old dude sending. Love his comment at the end: "People say you should do routes that tax your weaknesses. Fuck that. When you get my age, you avoid your weaknesses." Love it!

What a playground! Thanks for posting your experience!

Well okay then. I'll give them a shot. Thanks for the replies.

Has anyone had his/her shoes resoled here? I have typically used The Rubber Room, but am tired of their 8 week turnaround time. Cascade Cobbler advertises 10 day turnaround. Anyone have good experience with the job Cascade does? Thanks!

Theres no such thing as a FA in Leavenworth that's within 1,500' of the road.

Were they marking the descent? First cigarette butts. Now kids drawing petroglyphs at our hollowed bouldering grounds.

Ok, here's your ingredient list for a crowd-free day in Leavenworth, in particular, Castle Rock: P1: Mr clean P2: Brass Balls P3: No Such Thing As a Free Lunge (if this pitch has a que, then climb Dans Dreadful Direct) P4: return to lower Castle and climb Squeak of the Humiliated P5: Finish up on Midway, which should now be free of climbers! Chances are good you may not havre to wait in too long of a line. Post pics!

Great pics and report, I always love Dan's write ups. Is it just me, or are we in the midst of a golden age of North Cascade backcountry skiing? Do John Scurlock's aerial photos have the same impact for skiing that they have had on alpine climbing? Great question. From my very limited perspective, the ski descent movement gained momentum and widespread (washington) noteriety starting with Hummel's website, photos, tr's along with Ski Sickness afterwards. They continue to provide motivation to ski fun lines. Scurlock's photos are an additional "tipping point", whose impact can't be underestimated.

Eric and Dan. The Lebron James and Duane Wade of the skiing world. I'm just fascinated you guys were able to take one hand off a pole and maintain an edge to take photos!

I forgot my smiley face.

Dude, you have absolutely no chance. Don't even bother. Climb something at Exit 37 or Infinite Clips. And by all means, spread the bad news to all your climbing colleagues in the greater Seattle area.

The descent to Pearly Gates is very easy, especially if you stay on the ridge crest that overlooks snow creek to the east and the upper Icicle Canyon to the west. Brush is minimal.

Too bad. That thing just needs to be climbed.

Cool! Thanks. And what's that chimney go at on the far right there? I've always looked at that thing driving by. Also, while we're on the subject of Wenatchee area climbing, have you ever climbed that splitter crack on Stayman Flats Road just south of the tunnel on 97A? Is that accessible to the public too?

So how many people are needed to crag here? Porter, I think we may ned a climbing manual for this area too. (Just kidding Ed) I assume this is the crag: I always assumed this jumble of rocks was off limits due to being right on top of a small orchard.

Crampons are absurd overkill for this route. My buddy and I fired this route in Crocs last week.

So true. Combined with Mr. Tremendous on lower 8 Mile Buttress, and Hello Kitty on Middle 8 Mile, is a great link-up. Swingline is a great two pitches of climbing.

No to tape. More often than not, it ends up tossed in the bushes at the crag at the end of the day. Crack climbing is lame anyways.

End of June.

It's no contest. Deet kicked the tick's ass. In fact, when I sprayed deet directly on ticks, it took less than 2 minutes for them to die. And oh, how I did laugh. I swore I could hear their tiny wails of agony, which made me chuckle even harder. I may have inhaled toxic amounts of this carcinogen today and rendered all my nylon slings unusable, but there was not one blood sucking arachnid on my person.

I think we should take Shaoleung's list and do a rando style race for climbers, complete with spandex pants and super lightweight carabiners. the winning pair gets a pint of Lokal Lager at the Icicle Brewery.

My bet is that you accomplish Stop 1-3.

Ahh, true. A bit of a hike. But worth the effort.

Glass Eye (Purina Crag area), The Bone (Castle), Old Grey Mare to Crack of Doom (Castle, used to be 5.8+), Sonic Boom-Flake Fest-April Mayhem (Trundle Dome), Peek-a-Boo Tower (Duty Dome Area)...