telemarker

Tr of some ice alternatives: Stuart Lake Ice

Trip: - Stuart Lake Ice Cragging Date: 1/7/2012 Trip Report: If you're looking for ice alternatives in WA and don't mind a beat down approach and deproach, go to the south end oid Stuart Lake. The ice is blue and thick as Kyle Flick and I found out Saturday. Lovely one swing sticks taking easy ice screws. Approach is a beaten in path to the colchuck lake junction. From there we skinned to the lake. Total mileage from Bridge creek campground is close to 10 miles. the flows pictured are 2 pitches long. We climbed the left and right most lines. Lots of other options up there. We just ran out of time. Obviously a lot of mileage and not enough climbing, this area would best be appreciated camping out up there. As well, looking at the first photo, there is significant avy hazard from the glacier above.

And please feel free to PM me if anyone has similar goals and wants to team up on a few, especially the ski descents.

Sol, you should add "Lead No Such Thing Free Lunge on Jello Tower" as part of your list. My list... 1. Quit web browsing while driving, starting at a later date. 2. Try not to strangle myself in this 2012 election year. Rock: 1. Successfully top rope No Such Thing As a Free Lunge and Dans Dreadful on Jello Tower; 2. Lead Das Muzak, Castle Rock; 3. Lead Pants Down, 11c, Vantage; 4. Lead crux pitches of Hyperspace. Alpine Rock: 1. Cleanly lead all crux pitches of CBR west face; 2. Solid Gold, Prusik; 3. Goerillas in the Mist, Stuart; 4. Girth Pillar, Stuart. 6. Anything in the Pickets. Ice: 1. Lead WI5; 2. Drury Falls k 3. Polar Circus; 5. Anything in Banff. Ski: 1. N-4 on Adams; 2. Ice Cliff, Stuart; 3. Liberty Ridge, Rainier; 4. N. Face, Shuksan; 5. Mary Green Glacier, Bonanza; 6. Tahoma Headwall, Rainier. Bouldering: 1. Listen to other, stronger climbers talk about it, and do a better job of acting interested.

It was near 60f today in Wenatchee. I'm guessing there's no more ice.

This is all wonderful advice Duckfeet. I hope you've had time to digest it. But above all else, stay the hell out of Wenatchee.

Stay the hell away from Wenatchee.

Why do people insist they've, "never fallen on their cam." I mean who the hell cares? Gear is meant to arrest falls, so it's okay to fall on your cam and still sell it later. Let me guess, you've also never weighted your rope, only lightly placed that stopper, only held that ice screw next to the ice. C'mon man!

Well, looks like Drury is rebounding after that inversion period. From last Sunday: Thanks for posting this update V!

Thanks for the ideas. I'm curious as to why ice boots rely on laces for a not so snug fit instead of a lightweight buckle system like ski boots that don't loosen up over the course of a couple pitches.

Thanks for the tips.

I'm getting a lot of heel slop in my boots (Scarpa Summit GTX). It doesn't matter how hard I crank on the laces. Poor fit for my foot type I'm sure, but short of throwing down a few hundred for a better fitting pair, is there any strap like those used for ski boots that would work to tighten them up a bit?

The panels went to the Wenatchee YMCA for a lame, 6' bouldering traverse.

There'd be no way I'd go to ML for a climbing gym, especially mid-winter. I can't speak for the other Wenatchee climbers though... The Cliffhangar in E. Wenatchee was a blast. Sure, it was small, but it was a good mid-week hangout spot a couple times a week to make plans for the weekend, and that odd saturday or sunday burn. We need a Berkeley Ironworks or the like for the area!

Talking about stoke, check out this cover spread on the latest issue of Skiing mag. Though not a huge fan, they do seem to be moving away from the fu fu resort scene. This shot is certainly compelling!

Sun, granite, apre-climb drinks, and I'm sure plenty of thongs... So jealous!

telemarker- How do you know about TCCC? You get over here much or sump'n? yes I do. The routes are super sandbagged too. Do you hear me Spencer? I guess given the limited space you have to squeeze as much pump as you can. I haven't seen you there before...

Kind of last minute, but was wondering if anyone was up for some ice in Hyalite over this weekend, Thanksgiving break. I can drive but would want to split gas and accommodations. I'm on my second year of leading ice, but have a good rack of screws going, have built (successful!) V-thread anchors, and have general climbing and alpine climbing know-how over the past 10 yrs. PM, email or call. touring29@gmail.com 5096999810. John

Go to the DMV and get an enhanced driver's license (or equivalent WA ID card) for $15.

Hey Buckshot, Are you planning on building one? If you do, put it in Chelan or Douglas county, please. Wenatchee is in desperate need of a climbing gym.

Nothing like impossible off width climbing footage to alienate the viewers.

With all the tracks, my guess would be Heliotrope...looks yummy.

I couldn't agree more, but more because I'm a terrible on-sight climber. There's nothing quite like smoothly climbing a well-rehearsed pitch that previously I had taken multiple hangs and falls on solo TR. But I guess smoothly on-sighting should still be the goal...

It's just too bad he looks so sketched...