Terminal_Gravity

Ethanol has more than 5 calories per gram. So, if you are carring everclear, your weight per calorie is better than GU (or snickers for that matter). I think that any thing above 110 proof is worth carrying. Knob Creek does not quite make the grade at 100 proof. For bourbon, choose Booker's at 127 proof. Rhum; I like Cruzan at 120 proof ( aged in oak for 2 years and only $11 a bottle ) It is hard to find a bottle of scotch that makes the cut at less than $150. There are not many liqours over 110 but they are out there; Chartruese comes to mind, as do a few specialty Ouzo's. High proof rhum and Cytomax with a bit of water is palatable and soooo... good for you. (hint, mix the water & Cytomax first then add the alcohol) Handy trick # 1. You can swirl high proof drink into a water bottle that was used to carry water from a questionable source prior to boiling it... and then drink the contents with impunity and reuse the bottle for clean water afterwards. Frankly, and I hate to admit this, I could barely choke down my rhum supply above 19,000 ft on my last trip. I did, because I needed the bottle for summit day and it would have broken my fragile heart to have dumped it out. (I guess we all have our limits.) P.S. Keep your fucking limes away from my bourbon...that being said; I have plenty of gin & tequila.

Thanks for the well wishes guys. Good luck to ehmmic in Ecuador, too. Have fun and good luck to all of you. I'll post a TR in a month. Dru, I'll be avoiding riots...but I was thinking running for president after the climb.

Good luck, Mike & I hope the sleeping bag works for you.

Try Paraguay; no extradition treaty and is close to the Andes. (Enterprise OR might be worth a look as well.)

Thanks All. Andy I would very much appreciate you giving me a heads up when your friends get back. Unless things go really ratso I will still be leaving 1/8. steve

Is there such a thing as too sharp for water ice? First, if it is so sharp that it will catch and cut your cloths with minimal pressure it sure is a pain in the Second, from my limited experience, a very sharp pick seems to roll the edge and dull worse when you hit rock. Third, from my experience in construction, a dulled nail is far less likely to split the wood than a sharp one. Does this hold true for fracturing ice? My guess is that an experienced climber with a lot more finesse than climbing hard, dense ice would want extra sharp picks. But a hack & grunt climber like myself wants them butter knife sharp. Comments?

any word or idea on what the situation in Argentina is going to do for climbing this season Walstien, you having any second thoughts?

Good postings Erik. Hang in there man. Balance all aspects of life is truly the key. A year and a half ago life hit me upside 'da head with a lead pipe. I expect to permanetly handicaped from the emotional injury. Climbing and the love of climbing gets me out of bed in the morning.

For Sale... High quality tape filmed by expert climber Will Strickland. Staring Dru and Cavemanin raw, down and dirty. Ever wonder how fat caveman really is...see every roll ... up close. Decide for your self if Dru really should wear a skirt on crack climbs. Guest apearance by Sexual Chocolate; swinging on the pull-up bar. Make Offer This is the un-rated version. [ 12-20-2001: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

quote: Originally posted by Dru: TG you should ask if Will will throw in some of the home made xxx tapes he made with it!!! Thanks Dru; but I was way ahead of you...How do you think I was able justify the expense?

The Wallowas are getting a huge dump as I write this. Mandatory powder day tommarow. Work can wait.

Hey Fred, I might be able to fit you into our apprentice program. Experence in drinking, skiing and belaying are pre-requesites.

Thanks Hairball, My daughter Claire wears a size 3 do you think the SMC's would fit, or could be made to fit? If so what do you want for them? I'll probably take 'em especially if I could get them before Christmas. Pm me your phone # & i'll call tomarrow. Thanks - steve

Get all 22 cm BD express. You can always tie them off. No reason to screw around with different sizes. IMO BTW if you want a 17 BD non express I have one for sale.

Dibs-check your PM's

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: This is Caveman. What is your definition of a big wall? I want to climb one some day. I like the idea of thrashing my way up one. Hey CC; lets try to convince Will to drag us up the El Cap Nose next summer, I know he wants to do it. That's a big wall. I failed on it once already. Good practice, huh? You and I can be the best support troup that he could ever imagine and while he's leading the aid pitches we can compare gut size. Waddaya say? --------------------------------- I'm fat too; and I just got 28,800 calories worth of GU in the mail. [ 12-19-2001: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

A year ago today I was lazing on the southern coast of Mexico, swimming with turtles and drinking cheap mescal after playing on the ice on the SW side of Pico de Orizaba.

Yeah; Trask you are probably right. Maybe I should be drinkin' instead of dreamin' Alcohol is my life...climbing is my tonic and I've cried enough tears to wash dishes. [ 12-19-2001: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

cj001f - thanks for the reply, and clearly economics dictate having things sewn in places with cheap labor. That being said, I gotta call bullshit. China has the biggest labor pool. But their are several other countries with equally cheap and skilled labor. What it would take is for gear companies to make a policy of not dealing with China. For that to happen they would have to find value in doing so. That's where we as consumers come in. If a bunch of us wrote Marmot or any of the others and even said that we would be more likely to by a piece of clothing that was made anywhere but China, they would listen. And really all you need is one major company to become aware of a consumer concern and the others will be forced to follow. Also, when you purchase something mail order ask if it is made in China if they don't tell you in the catalog. (Sierra Trading Post does) If a big customer like MGear started asking the Manufactures about origin, they would listen. Sooner or later, the manufacturs would start advertising "China Free" clothing.

After finishing Tex's work out try this... Get the flu. Eat thirty seven prunes. Tighten a C-clamp onto your temples. Drink 1 1/2 oz. each of Mescal (with worm), Absinthe, Ouzo and Jagermeister. Put duct tape over your mouth, and one nostril. (Your allowed to remove duct tape only while puking) Pee in your pants Spend 16 hours on a stairmaster in a walk in freezer. For extra credit you may apply 400 grit sand paper to the piece of clothing opposite any of the following. ToesAchilles tendonsNipplesTestes Note: If you ever feel like you are getting "a second wind" drink 5 ml of Visine

'second night in a row that I couldn't sleep. So, today I got an alpine start at work but it's too dark in the shop, the beer is all happy and needs no attention and I can't stand the thought of paperwork. Are you as bored already as I am? So... Point A) I'm sure that we all loath the horrors that the Chinese government did to the people and culture of Tibet. Point B) As mountaineers we hold Tibet dear and dream of things Hymalayan. Point C) As good ole american consumers our biggest collective power is the BOYCOTT. So, my biggest gripe.... Why the hell do so many high end mountaineering gear companies make things in China? And, why do we buy them? [ 12-19-2001: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

I could not find any ice in slick rock canyon. It must have dried up early season. There is good solid and steep steps in a gully across from falls creek. The largest is about 35 feet high & 40 ft wide Falls creek falls (50 ft) is forming nicely but still has a bit to much liquid water flowing. I climbed BC creek falls this morning. I had fun but it really needs another month. Slush ville. Boy scout falls has a long way to go. Ruby Peak has a 400 ft mixed climb that is slowly forming. It may be thick enough to climb on January first...which is what I am planning. If anyone wants more info you can always call me.541.426.0158 I took some pictures and will post them when I get a chance. steve

Pull-ups for ice?...simple, do the pull-ups hanging from you tools. I do it from a tree branch but a high bar works to. It uses the appropriate muscles and toughens your wrists. Swinging while pulling up? Put a couple of 6 inch long pieces of PVC pipe that is slightly larger diameter than the bar on the bar and pull from them. They will rotate and you won't be torqueing the bar with your grip. This trick also increases hand strength more. (in fact your hands might give up before your arms) It also helps provide more of a pure upward force for your arms and increases control.

I got that Simonds Super Fox third tool that was discussed on an earlier thread. My 7 year old can acctually hold and swing it. She is now all psyched to climb ice! I couldn't find any small crampons. Does anybody know of any. Thanks in advance.

Hey Smoky, Lots of snow out here but not as much ice as I would like. I trudged 7 miles in snow shoes this morning ( wishin' I owned skis) in search or this 500foot rolling waterfall (WI 1-4 when formed) It's been cold enough but must have dried up early season. All I found was a long steep gully full of snow. (wish I owned skis) I returned and had my favorite post workout cocktail...Cytomax & Gin!