Otto

David Whitelaw and I finished this new route on August 4. Jim Nelson was in attendance to take some photos, but did not climb it with us. The route is called Indentured Servant, and is located 100+ yards left of Tooth Fairy. It's a sport route of five pitches, all bolted, like this: P1 some sustained 5.10a, 12 bolts P2 5.7, 9 bolts P3 5.8, crossing a giant chockstone, 6 bolts, P4 5.10b, reachy stemming up a V-slot, 12 bolts P5 5.9, sustained .9 face climbing for over 30', 6 bolts We built it to climb and rappel with one 60m rope. For P1 we extend two of the clips with alpine draws to avoid drag (see photo). Rappel the route until P2, then drop straight down into the deep gully where there is a final anchor. The route finishes on the North ridge, so you can traverse right and up to the summit. One could also walk off the North Ridge route. All bolts are 3/8" SS wedge bolts. Belay/rappel anchors are either SS chain w/ ring or two bolts with rings. The first person to climb it besides David and me was Ken Ford, on Aug. 12. Then David's friend Kelsey Gray from AK joined us for a couple of days of exploration, and they climbed it together on Sept. 2, while I took a rest day in camp. Then I brought up Robin Taft for an outing of Tooth Fairy the first day, and this route the next, on Sept. 12-13. Here is Ken Ford finishing P1, showing how the rope takes a nice curve if bolts 6 and 7 are extended David W. has drawn one of his beautiful topos for this, but we won't publish until next year. One doesn't need a topo to climb it, however, just find the clean toe of white rock to the left of a major gully, and follow the hangers. Bill Enger

A very informative trip report, thank you. Nice work with the annotations. That is a huge amount of alpine rambling, something to look forward to!

Yes, it's always cool to do that bonus pitch of Silent Running. I've led it a couple of times, it was so fun to follow you up it. But, the name, 'Road to Silent Bonus Tour'? Hmm...

Indeed, thanks Curt for the Tour! Had a fun time climbing this with you and tanstaafl.

Well, yes, that's a nice photo. Was it done with your RX100 or the D7100? On a tripod?

Absolutely. A classic, self-motivated, big day out. Well done. Pardon my asking, but did you use the tag line at any point?

Remove the nut with a 9/16" wrench. Turn the blade of an old hack saw 90 degrees and saw the bolt off close to the rock. Punch the stud down in the hole with a hammer. New bolts are not to be placed on old routes. Keep the hangers and make a wind chime.

Congrats on some big days out! Thank you for the thoughtful writing in this report.

Thanks for starting the discussion. I'm not a camera nerd, just in the market for a point-and-shoot for documentation of climbing routes. I'll check out the Sony RX100.

Thank you for the excellent trip report. I'm glad your buddy found his mood once again elevated. cheers!

Mighty fine photos there, Kyle. Alpine ridge climbing on Skookum looks great! Where do you find these obscure things? Thank for posting.

Have fun out there in the "greater ranges of Washington"!

Nice one, thanks for letting us know about it! No longer a mystery...

I've been wanting to go up Clark for a long time. I've heard there is good rock there. Thank you for the excellent photos! However, peak bagging is not a numbers game. It is an experience game, as I'm sure you know.

Thanks for the very well-written trip report. That looks like a full-on bushwhacking experience with an amazing lake for the reward. Kudos.

Not Darrington, but sort of funny. The video shows someone nearby using a boating rope on a route nearby, and some foreign language. I'm guessing Thailand.

What a fine travelogue! I think even I could find that route if I had these photos handy. (I didn't find the peak on first try, either! Many years ago.) Thanks for posting up!

That looks like fun, Curt! Especially that first pitch 4 shot looks really cool. Thanks to you and Mark for doing the work, and sharing the photos and topo. Your son looks just like you! Looking forward to meeting you some day, as I'm sure our paths will cross.

It looks great now, thank you! I'll take another look at my system, do some tests. thx

Thanks for posting the topo. Since it is the older version, I assume you got it off Mountain Project. However, I've made the following edits: Top pitch is Pitch 14, there is no longer a 15th pitch. (Summit can be reached without stopping at the "tree belay"). There are now two bolts on Pitch 14. There is now a bolt at the "Inverted Prow" on Pitch 11, instead of the piton.

I am using IrfanView to reduce the size, with its Resize/Resample feature. However, even though the resulting file sizes go very low, they will not upload. Maybe there is something wrong with the way I saved it out from Photoshop; I'll try something some other options.

Just tried with FireFox (after first try with Chrome) getting same result, "There was a problem uploading your file".

I have a topo I'm trying to upload which is 50,619 Kb in size. The error is "failed to load". Is there a size limitation? If so, I can try to find a way, in Photoshop, to reduce the size (I"m already doing "flatten image" of course). Thank you for any advice!

The topo .jpg is failing to attach, perhaps it's too big at 50,619 Kb. Tried a smaller, resized file at 1940 Kb, no joy. Meanwhile, the topo and description are available here: Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer

Trip: Squire Creek Wall - Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer Trip Date: 09/07/2014 Trip Report: Posting this record and topo to allow the Trip Report Search to find the route history. This route was made with work done from July, 2013 to September, 2014, with the FA on 9/7/2014. Pitches 1-9 (partial) by David Whitelaw and Bill Enger. Pitches 9 (partial) and 10 by Bill Enger and Jim Daubert. Pitches 11-14 by Bill Enger and Jake Larson. In 7/2020, four smashed bolts or hangers on Pitch 2 were repaired or replaced by Bill Enger. In 7/2021, additions were made by Bill Enger and Brian Young: Pitch 11 bolt added at Inverted Prow to replace piton, Pitch 14 two bolts added to protect the white rib and a chain anchor added on the summit. The topo to follow, too big to attach here... Gear Notes: Standard single rack to 3". Two 60m ropes. Approach Notes: Boot track from Squire Creek. ConcertoInC_rev1.pdf