Rafael_H

BTW, I noticed in the past that oiled screws have an ever so slight, but noticeable resitance when going in. But the idea is not empty. I wonder if there is smth to improve penetration. Alcohol? Nowadays so much is possible with chem advances.

That's a fantastic tool, man! I suggest a small modification. Hollow it out and install a small battery operated heating element in it. That way if you screw up and don't clean your screw by tapping immediately after taking it out, instead of spending 0.5 hour at the belay trying to pry the ice out and warming the screw under armpits, you'd be able to just melt it out wiuthout accidentally scratching the inside. The modified tool can then also be used as a hand warmer... The ultimate modification would then be to add a LED bulb and make it work as an emergency flash light!

Wow, really nice, superb!

Thank you Jens!

Excellent note! I finally came to this same realization all on my own in 2007-2008 (I am sure it is written and talked about online/in books but I've had no time, so am a bit late, I guess). And so... I took the second rest off of my Quarks. I put the second rest on back in 2003-2004 season for hand matching reasons, and to start loosing the leash comletely. I stopped using the leash as aid back in 2000 at insistence of my mentor and lengthened it so it was just a safety implement. So the leash was becoming more and more of a nuisance, and just a phsycological aid. With the new BD leashes hand matching was much easier. At the same time I also completely wrapped my Quarks with good grip tape to prevent from dings. What I noticed was that using the second rest for hand matching was not that easy because often times there was little space between the tool at that spot and the ice. On a very high stick I'd be struggling to wiggle my fingers in all the while loosing energy, or I'd be just grabbing the tool's sticky surface with leather gloves anywhere on the shaft. And for bumping I was most often grabbing it definitely above the secondary rest. Note that the rest is only fully useful when you grab the tool as you would a handgun. And yes, the Grivel rest is a bit too small/uncomfortable. So I took the rests off and... also bought Nomics. Obviously just about anything has its pros and cons. Let's see what happens this year.

Yikes! Climbing Driving Speeding is dangerous.

Where do you plan on staying? Would you take a Seattleite?

Hi. Let me know if anybody wants to join me for a trip to Nada Falls from the west side (greater Seattle area). Rafael

I have never been to frozen Nada Falls. Will anybody please tell me what's it's rated and how long it is? Avy danger "grade"? Looks like 2-3... Thank you in advance!

Thank you so much!!! That definitely relives some anxiety about a 3 hour recon drive.

Thanks for the replies, guys. I found partners and climbed, tomorrow going with my wife. Sorry for not updating the site. Happy climbing! Rafael

Hi. I lost my camera on Prime Rib Small Pentax in a black case. Please let me know if you find it... Thank you in advance!

Hi. Need a partner for cragging on Fri and one of the weekend days. Index, L-worth, possibly WA pass (Hitchhiker ?) w/short approach/descent, you name it. Just getting back into shape after injuries, can climb 10+, did 11a on gear this Mon. No car on Fri, will drive my car only to crags on w-end. Or easy alpine in a day (WR Stuart?), just one though, gotta train for Gunks. Thank you, Rafael

Well, it seems like the best compromize between gas, logistics and turnaround time, and workout level is west ridge of Stuart. If anybody wants to join in call 425-208-2649. I will be leaving at 3AM from Mercer Island.

Hi. Looking for a partner to do either one of the following: Burgundy Spire (or Chianti Spire ?) Prussik Peak south face Forbidden Peak ? (any way but the west ridge) or open to suggestions for a day outing roughly equivalent, + -, the effort level for Backbone/Fin on Dragontail c2c (getting better though). The earliest I can leave is Saturday after 4PM.

The crack will likely take big bro-s, it is not flaring. After looking at all the pics I did not bring anything above 2" so never evaluted it for pro, but suspect the inside wall surface might make for wobly BB placements and only allow specific spots for placement, in which case passing them might be hard. (BTW, right side of dihedral is not just smearing, there are many full blown footholds. Also, the OW is the easiest pitch IMO, unlike the rest of that lichen covered maze.)

PM sent! Looking for a Colchuck partner this Sun! Rafael 425-208-2649

Yeah!!! Superb, both the climb and the TR, made my day. Pure joy, I want more pics/TRs like this too. Happy to hear Jens is back pulling hard.

Hi. Looking for a partner to climb the Backbone Ridge w/Fin on Sunday. I have all the gear and can lead the whole thing, or follow if you insist, not important - just need to get out and do some fun cardio. Prefer leaving at 4AM Sunday morning, or you suggest.

I probably don't need to tell you then that you can get some "frank nuts" (in this case bomber RP's) in the middle of the bouldering sequence, which protect both you and your belayer for whichever route you take. BTW I love watching video of local climbs, especially when it's well done. Thanks for the effort. It is only 11a if going straight up, that's where thin fingers would help, and yes, RP fits fine. Going around the bulge from right is far easier, easier than the rest of it (I'v done both ways). 10d comes from the small overhanging part, the only part not shown But, good to be able to at lest watch some familiar routes being climbed. Good job!

PM

PM

Hi. If anybody wants to join me on a pure walking outing up to the top of Colchuck and/or Dragontail peaks, let me know today. I am also open to no-hands "climbs" on Saturday and Sunday, or just carpooling to destinations that have both hiking and climbing, like Stuart: W ridge hike and N ridge climb. Thanks, Rafael 425-208-2649

Yep, taking snowshoes. I am just worried about slides. I thought that 35 degree slopes were safe. What's the scoop on this? Not much of a snow traveler but need to get out - can only walk now, arms are shot. So any beta/avy considerations are appreciated. Thanks again!

I have never climbed Colchuck or Dragontail. Would Colchuck Glacier route be dangerous this Sunday? Thanks!