jhamaker

Climbers are almost always behind spelunkers in maters of gear testing and physics. Try Spelunking sites.

I've used both. I like the (MegaLight) for its floor configuration, usable room, and weight, thought it is true you need a good square footprint. My winter bags are wind and water resistant, no need for a heavy 1lb bivy sack. Any single walled structure will be (colder) in the winter than a properly designed double-walled structure by morning. I don't generaly bring tarps or pyramids above treeline in the winter because of the sail area. Lots more room if you dig a shallow pit under the structure. Can also build benches/tables/pit toilets inside.

Looks cold, good plan. I'll pm you.

Scarpa F1, US Mens 8 barefood - something that fits, tight. I went down two full sizes when I bought my T3's, they packed in well and are still warm. I want a tight shell. For cold conditions (not that we get them here in WA near treeline) I'll wear OR X-gaitors or overboots. Skate Poles 150cm (or longer, I can cut them down) w/ comfortable hand harness and baskets w/ a surface area of at least 6 square cm Also looking for a good sighting compass inclinometer accurate to w/ in a degree a small blue Metolious Tri-cam. Bird Beaks jhamaker at gmail *dot* com

>>Does Red Rocks have a crappy road? << Several crappy roads actualy, but not inside the BLM blocaded (at night) area.

I, personnaly am not fond of compressed gas stoves below about 20 degrees F. If melting snow, a big pot. 1L/person. i.e. a team of three might carry a 3L pot. Yes, everyone practice z-pully (even though there is just one crevasse/bercherund I've seen on the Hogsback rt) Person most likely to fall is lowest on the rope (or sometimes middle) Don't rope up unless your travel system can hold a fall (place pro or unrope on the steeps) Puncture proof sleeping pad when on snow Wide-mouth insulated waterbottles plastic boots for winter, or supergaitors/overboots over leather balaclava waxy coating for exposed skin (dermatone, chapstick) brain experience in bad weather clothing of course, wind and waterproof Avy kit when in avalanche terrain (shovel, beacons, probes, dynamite) If you are patient and a good internet shopper good deals can be had. Usually about a month after you realy need it. (shop now for summer items)

I, personnaly am not fond of compressed gas stoves below about 20 degrees F. If melting snow, a big pot. 1L/person. i.e. a team of three might carry a 3L pot. Yes, everyone practice z-pully (even though there is just one crevasse/bercherund I've seen on the Hogsback rt) Person most likely to fall is lowest on the rope (or sometimes middle), last person in line is most likey to be the one setting up the z-pully Don't rope up unless your travel system can hold a fall (place pro or unrope on the steeps) Puncture proof sleeping pad when on snow Wide-mouth insulated waterbottles plastic boots for winter, or supergaitors/overboots over leather balaclava waxy coating for exposed skin (dermatone, chapstick) brain experience in bad weather clothing of course, wind and waterproof Avy kit when in avalanche terrain (shovel, beacons, probes, dynamite) If you are patient and a good internet shopper good deals can be had. Usually about a month after you realy need it. (shop now for summer items)

I have a Dodge Minivan too. If we borrow your sister's, I can fix it if it breaks on the rd in ; )

Nice troll. What about sport climbing to a TR anchor that you can walk to? It seems if you put bolts below an easily accessible anchor you are needlessly defacing the rock, and artificialy limiting the number of possible lines/variations below the anchor.

Lv Puget Sound Tue or Wed, back Fri or Sat. I'm up for most anything. I've got all the gear and a working vehicle as well!

WX. I agree, it can be colder in RR or JT, depending on the storm systems. I'm familiar enough w/ RR now that I can always find a sunny aspect to climb. If we had a vehicle down there, we could choose.

Maybey this yr I can lure you to someplace w/ more interesting climbing like Zion or Red Rocks . . .

Missed again. Call back after Thanksgiving! Unless you're driving down from the NW and back . . . ?

I mostly have icing problems w/ the toe piece. Slop some Maxiglide or other wipe on ski wax in the mechanism and *presto* problem solved.

For the record, in French, "la" is feminin, "petit" and "cheval" are masculine, so if one were to refer to the small horse in French one would say "le petit cheval". -J'aime pas trop l'ortographe moi.

I'm leaving Sunday, Back mid/end of the wk. I've got room in my vehicle for 5 others.

Great! Thanks for volunteering to add a bolt or two on Snake Dike. I believe you can contact the FA folks via the Yosemite climbing commitee. Rem: hand drilling only in the valley.

>>part of the argument comes down to this: for bolted or partly-bolted pitches, does the first ascensionist have any kinda moral/social/nice-guy responsibility to bolt it safely and at good stances? Or, because they probably eyed/cleaned/equipped the route themself, should they just put in bolts exactly where (and not where) they want to, with thought only given to enabling their FA of the climb.<< All responsibility for a climb is taken by the party who climbs it. If the FA team wants to put a bolt every 80 feet on protectionless slab, then great! Subsequent parties can then enjoy a simmilar climbing experience. It has always been the responsibility of any subsequent parties to make the best effort to contact the FA team to reccomend/ volunteer to add bolts (i.e. Snake Dike in Yosemite Valley, CA). Courtesy, gentlebeings, courtesy.

Oh, I thought this thread was about Bolting Nazis. I compare bolting of previously climbed routes with, say, putting a highway ontop of the Quinault/Elwa trail in the Olympics. Sure it makes it easier and safer for thousands of people to get through the heart of the Olympics, but the experience is not the same - AND YOU CAN NEVER GO BACK. Had bolters been more discreat and less vigorous with bolting operations, the "bolting in the wilderness" controversy (and ban) would have been delayed for years. I've noticed that guidebooks these days tend to spell out in black and white such things as rappel lenths (wich you can measure w/ your rope on the way up) and the amount of protection (PG/R/X for example). With this beta in hand climbers can pick thier comfort level with out having to bring every climb down to that level.

Ground Hog Day RS 115' (not 10O') Opening Ceremonies RS 120'

If you use a battery operated camera, you will need to keep the battery warm. Li works best. I love my Olympus Stylus 500. I notice the newer ones have a slower lens, slower (bigger number) than 3.1. My photografer friend brefers the colors on the Cannons. I like the water-proof feature of the Olympus Stylus.

Looks like some folks, myself included are gathering Sat, Sept. 23 at Buttermilk Boulders, mabey camping there for the wk. Rumor has it that BB is 7 mi W of Bishop. TTFN

I've got a GoreTex -40 F bag for sale. $300

I'll look up 3rd Pillar. Waiting for a response from Brian Tryba to see If I can pull of the wk of Sept 24 near Bishop. My carpool is leaving the 23rd back to Seattle, WA, Brian could get me as far as Boise a wk later if he can come down.

I'll be IN Bishop the wk before Sept 22. I've been looking at the guidebooks, just too much to do! I'm looking for someone to climb w/ and carpool back to WA with the wk following Sept 22. I like grade III's and IV's usualy lead up to 5.9+, A1