payaso
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Everything posted by payaso
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There was a post on here a while back about the removal of the registers. Anyone know anything about this? I've noticed some are conspicuously missing. On the top of Kangaroo Temple the other day there was a green cable with no register attached anymore. I can't see the logic behind any systematic removal, I kind of like the tradition myself. Is it sponsored removal by the park service or the freddies, or is it some puritan luddite movement to "clean" the summits?
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It's not as hard as if you don't go out, and wish you had. You'll wish you had that weekend back again some gloomy time in February or so.
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What the hell, someone on this board must need a place to sleep when they're not climbing or spraying. The Details.... Rent=$400 + 1/2 utilities (Cheap!) House= small older 2 bedroom in Seattle's Central District (near Madrona, Madison), you get downstairs bedroom and corner space for computer, etc. House has Washer and Dryer, and a yard. Send me a PM for details...
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What sucks is that they do not allow the fuel bottle if it has ever been used before. That is, it sucks for everyone except MSR, and others.
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REI now has a whole section devoted to that kind of shit. They even have "trail" roller blades these days. There will be a whole new record book on first descents with these things. How about a first descent of the Tooth on a mountain board? While it's tragic about the accident, I personally would never trust something that I couldn't stop (duh)! Give me a mountain bike any day
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So did I buy something I have no business owning? I intend on this being a rope that I carry for general mountaineering (glacier travel, 3-4 people on rope, occasional need to rappel, belay, and possibly occasional need to ascend / traverse a rock pitch. I do not intend on going out and buying another one to have a "set" of twin ropes. The salesman really recommended this for what I wanted. I imagine that if I intended to be doing more vertical pursuits that I would indeed need two of these ropes. For what I want though, perhaps this will work fine, or am I crazy to even think about using a single twin rope for this purpose?
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quote: Originally posted by Dru: if you fell on a single strand of that you could deck out on the crevasse bottom from the stretch! Hmmm, you lost me there Dru. The stretch on my 60m x 10.5mm rock rope would probably be similar if I were to haul it up for a glacier crossing, and I punched through into a crevasse. Do you use a static rope on glaciers?
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So I just went out and bought this sweet little Bluewater 8mm x 37m dry rope that they call Ice Floss. I didn't look too closely at the UIAA specs when I bought it, but last night I noticed that it is marked as a "twin" rope. It states that to be used in a belay that you need two of them. Obviously this is marketed as a Glacier rope for it's size and weight, but there are times that I would need to use a belay on a Glacier climb. What if there is like a half pitch on rock or something like that? Maybe a very short rappel? I am a little confused because they are pretty careful about making it clear that a twin rope is to be used in pairs.
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Not climbing oriented, but when I used to drive tours all over I would get some pretty fucking dumb questions! In Canada (Rockies): "Who plants all these trees?" Asked by a Brit. At Lake Powell: "Is it low tide?" At the Grand Canyon: Me; "Showers are $1 for 5 minutes." Them; "How long is a 5 minute shower?" Me; "Oh, somewhere between 4 and 6 minutes." total deadpan, they never got it.
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The book Challenge of Rainier is a little old. What side of the crater is the entrance to the caves? With any luck I'll be up there this weekend coming up the Emmons. I won't have any special equipment with me, can I go down in there a little bit. Or is this unreasonable. In other words, do you have to lower yourself down into them with ropes?
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Take those bozos to the cleaners! That tent is well within your legitimate rights to get some new poles! I think they have some real boy scout types working back there that get tired of seeing all the shit come back. Never mind the fact that the loose return policy is why most people buy that stuff there to begin with. A couple years back I had some fleece pants go split on me and I took them up there. I got the boy scout type and they asked what I had done with them. I said I wore them while snowboarding. She instantly huffed some crap about these not being designed for snowboarding or whatever. Like I'm supposed to have different fleece pants for boarding, skiing, x country skiing, driving back from ski area, sitting at base camp, approaching base camp, climbing from base camp, walking to work on snowy day, etc. They'd love that wouldn't they. I can't wait to see the look on their face when I return my NW Forest pass next year after it stops working.
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Coming down from the summit pyramid on Shuksan last year, there was a group descending the main gully everyone seems to use ahead of us. The weather was getting pretty ugly, and the winds were loud and strong. They had set up a rappel for at least a portion of the gulley. I was waiting for them til they were out of the way when I saw one of them as they were prepared to begin their rappel. He turned and spoke (not yelled) in an inaudible voice to those at the bottom, and said "rapping." First of all no one would have heard him, and secondly what the hell does "rapping" mean? I expected him to start breakdancing or something
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"The test results have shown a decrease of up to 50% of the rope strength" "It is not possible for the UIAA Safety Commission to test all markers that are commercially available and can be used for marking ropes. " So why don't they at least tell us what markers or conditions caused the 50% failure? WTF???? How could the amount of ink in a Sharpie on the outside of your rope weaken it? Maybe they used nail polish remover or something.
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I'm interested if there is a good site as well. How were the local guides? How much more or less?
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You could try and distract the airline attendants by filling your pack with razors and ticking clocks and such. They may overlook the fuel bottles then. Seriously though, I've read that they won't allow a fuel bottle if its ever been used before but have never had anyone call me on it. Just don't volunteer any info, and wrap the thing with your underwear.
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It's Quality versus Quantity my friend.
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quote: Originally posted by Pencil Pusher: Anyone interested? Take the blue pill and turn on the Tikka. pencil_pusher@hotmail.com Huh? Viagra? Valium? I guess I don't get out much anymore but what "pill" would you be talking about there Pusher? Personally I would rather take as long to climb Olympus as possible. One of my goals is to climb Olympus while doing the entire Bailey Range traverse. Maybe about 8 days or so? I haven't researched it too closely yet, but I think that would be a real epic.
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"I know you are on a mountain, but what city are you in...etc,etc..." Glad you're ok! Just curious, what city is Glacier Peak in?
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Ahh what a life. This lucky bastard actually makes money by publishing trolls! This one's a little too obvious. He even says that golfers should be considered athletes.
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They send the special glacier horses up there and bring them back like a Clint Eastwood movie. How the hell do they get "stuck"? You bring wands, you use em, you follow em back. WTF!
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Yeah, what a bullshit weather forecast for the weekend! It was supposed to mostly sunny with only minor morning clouds. What a load of crap. Spent 2 days in tent waiting for a crack in the sky to get up Baker. When the weather briefly broke got blasted by big winds up near the col. Oh well, they can't all be success stories I guess.
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I just like seeing the words "FUCK YOU KEN SCHRAM!!!" at the top of the page.
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Ok, so I'm really geeking out by even thinking about this shit on a 90 degree day in July but I am interested in trying backcountry skiing this upcoming season. I'm currently a snowboarder but I think they are pretty difficult to work into a mountaineering setting, and the split boards look pretty dodgy to me. The deadline for the cheapest snoqualmie pass seasons pass is the end of this month. (Heads up if you care!) I think it would be a great place to learn to ski for a season. What would people recommend for a set-up? Tele, or Randonee? I want to eventually be able to use this stuff for mountaineering activities. The differences between the two are kind of confusing. Any recommendations?
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Is there a difference in the type of ski you should look for? As far as boots go, I climb with Scarpa Invernos. Does anyone ski using these boots? Are the advantages to buying a real 'Randonee' boot worth it? I imagine it would be better. From what I understand with the Randonee set-up you can either make normal alpine style turns, or you can free the heel and make tele turns if you ever get good enough to actually do it. Thanks for the info!
