payaso

Marty, you mention that you rope lasts 3 months to a year depending upon how much use it gets. The "falls" ratings you see for ropes are intended (I believe) to reflect the stress incurred from a real fall, and not just a little peeling off while top-roped. What are some of the ways you judge your rope life to be used up besides the advertised lifetime, counting real falls, and real obvious physical damage?

quote: Originally posted by Nelly: So, you don't think I'm a real climber, with anything to offer. Oh well, I knew my comments would bring out the simpletons. However, I can distinquish between those who line up to join schools, climb in large groups and wait to be told how and what to do, and those who go looking for the information and then apply it themselves. They possess a certain spirit that you can't relate to. Hmmmm, who's reading between the lines? I certainly do not doubt that you are a really good climber or that you have become one without taking a class. I just don't think it's sound advice to give someone starting out. Are your comments chest-beating or are they useful advice for a newbie. Spray away! [ 03-11-2002: Message edited by: payaso ]

Beware these "Self-Taught" posters in here. While I am truly in awe that they and their friends were apparently able to teach themselves all of the complex skills involved in climbing, I don't think that anyone can truly recommend this method to a beginner. If you happen to be lucky enough to have a very patient, close friend who can tutor you then great. Not everyone is that lucky. If I hadn't had some kind of formal training, I simply never would have been climbing, end of story. Your friend is right to insist that you get some crevasse rescue experience before a Rainier attempt, because if he falls, it will be you that has to save him. quote: The very spirit of climbing is adventure and discovery with an the ever-present potential for disaster! So what is this supposed to mean? That he learn Glacier travel by heading up the Nisqually with an Ice axe, and some Clif Bars and see what happens? It's not an adventure unless you come home to tell about it.

The guided climb can be good because it can help you decide if you want to take mountaineering any further or not. I'm sure many of the people who do paid summits of Rainier never do anything like that again in their lives. If you do and you decide you want more, then seek instruction through a club or something to take your interest further. I did a couple guided climbs which only served to peak my interest to learn what I was doing myself. Yes there are drawbacks to guided groups like RMI, but it will be a learning experience for you. Go for it!

They were very nice and helpful the other week when they went out of their way to call me long distance twice to inform me that this closure would affect my plans on my Enchantments Backcountry permit application. They could have easily just thrown it aside.

welcome member "tttttttttttt" What a name!

quote: Originally posted by W: This isn't a Yahoo chat room so mellow out. OK Just stirrin the pot.

W- Take another Bong hit and go back to bed. It's not like Fairweather is speaking for Gail Norton and advocating an 8 lane, raised drivearound highway to be built around the park or anything. P Puget is right in that this irrational spew only divides the environmental community when united, we would probably get most of what we want. Big $ developers are hoping that your incoherent ass shows up at public meetings because it makes the whole environmental community look like a bunch of dreadlocked hippies. Save your hatred for someone who deserves it [ 03-07-2002: Message edited by: payaso ]

quote: Originally posted by mr.radon: I happen to get ask one of the clients why he came out in September to climb Rainier? He said he had hoped all the snow would be melted off for an easier climb. He was shocked to see how much snow was still up there. I mentioned that was the definition of a glacier. The look on his face was unforgettable. I like that one!

I agree Norman, It's refreshing that Rainier is WAY less commercialized than the other biggies in this country. But having seen these disasters, now is the time to make sure it stays that way. The proposed golf course / country club or whatever they are planning on building outside the park is scary and I worry that the big commercial interests will work their way into the as-of-yet unspoiled Rainier National Park. As for guiding, I was exaggerating when I said that anyone should be able to guide anyone, but monopolies aren't the way to go. Maybe guiding companies that meet certain qualifications could be the solution. Any ideas?

The concessionaires are a major problem in our National Parks in the States. I have a great deal of experience from years running tours that went through the Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, Zion, Yosemite etc and have seen all of these places taken over by one or another monopoly concessionaire (like Fred Harvey). Their contracts with the park service are untouchable once allowed in the park. I think RMI is comparable to these other concessionaires in this respect. I remember I was not even legally allowed to escort my clients on a hike in Zion and many other National Parks because the concessionaire had secured the rights to lead guided hiking trips in the park. Never mind the fact that no one in the concessionaire actually offered a "paid for guided hike" of the area we wanted to go, they had the monopoly in the park and could keep anyone out that they wanted. Our company took groups of 13 people to these places in one vehicle, thereby reducing the number of vehicles in the park. That should be a good thing from anybody's perspective, but the fact that monopoly contracts are given out for these things is absurd. There is nothing wrong with hiring a guide if you lack experience. I never really tried climbing (alpine) until I went to South America and used guides down there. As a result of these experiences I decided to learn how to climb. Maybe some people want to try it once and never do it again, what's wrong with that? Certainly anyone doing the DC route doesn't really consider that to be an elite route and shouldn't expect to be alone when you go there. Either allow anyone to guide anyone, or do not allow any guided services at all. The private market and an organization's reputation will likely be the best self regulatory mechanism for potential guiding companies. As far as food and postcards go, I guess you can't get around offering something but these contracts should be for short periods of time to prevent the Fred Harvey's, Walt Disney's, and Whittaker's from taking over OUR National Parks!

I was surprised when I first heard that report a while ago and it had nothing to do with TNF. Supposedly it qualifies as the "world's highest volcano" because it's location at the equator somehow gives it (and all other land around the equator for that matter) some kind of "boost" due to the eliptical shape of our planet. If earth was a true sphere then this would not be the case. That volcano was one of my first climbing experiences back in 98. I was travelling down there and had been climbing some tamer stuff in Venezuela when we decide to go for Cotopaxi. We wanted to see if we could cut it against 19,000 ft and paid a local guide about $100 each for everything. For me it was acclimitization 101 as we practically drove to the refuge/shelter and started climbing that night. We were only 45 minutes or so from the summit, but were pretty whipped by the altitude. I really felt my head was going to explode! I need to go back and finish that one.

Ditto on the telecommute option Alex. I went to school up there for 5 years getting a 4 year degree and have many fond memories from that town! I'd be back there in no time but they're back in the 70's as far as salaries go. There are people there with PHD's and Master's making your Latte, or pouring your brew. I guess that's part of what makes it a pretty cool place. Rent was pretty cheap when I left (93) and is probably still comparable. I think I saw some silly article in Outside Magazine about it being one of the best college towns for being near the outdoors or something like that. Overall a real laid-back town with a real nice community feel if you stick around long enough. Good luck with the job search!

There aren't any hills in the whole of the Yucatan, and a few "Mountains" in Belize. As for climbing you'll have to line up behind a fat tourist at Chichen Itza when climbing the pyramids. If you're a scuba diver try the fresh-water cavern diving! Now that's something you can't do everywhere!

Sorry I was inaccurate in my previous post, the chopsticks cost $24.95.http://www.rei.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=6204297&prmenbr= 8000&cgrfnbr=5777365 [ 02-26-2002: Message edited by: payaso ]

Looks like they're made in January this year, so no probs! Thanks!

quote: Originally posted by MtnHigh: However, I'm going to redeem myself by spending my dividend on REI's latest line in hot apparel called REI-Secret. The perfect gift for the lady, REI-Secret offers a line of under garment delicacies that only the decadent mind can appreciate. Do they have and "REI-Secret" Cologne? It would be great to be able to simulate that "four days in the mountains" odor, w/o having to go through the formality of actually climbing anything. My girlfriend would be so impressed!

Thanks for the "idea" Idea Guy"! I just got my new Denali Classics from that Backcountry gear place for $115 including shipping and the lot! Can't wait for the weekend!

quote: Originally posted by Wallstein: Tonsai Beach Party, Thailand Who's game? Missed you there by two months! Damn fine time !

Where did you Boy Scouts come from? Back when I was in college, you basically just used REI as a bank account. When the old boots wore out, you returned them, and picked out another pair. These days I don't do it as much, but some things are worth buying there solely for the return policy. I blew through 4 pairs of Glacier glasses last year mostly due to manufacturers flaws, and no other store would take that kind of stuff back. They have gotten stricter with the return policy these days however. Now with everything computerized they pretty much instantly know everything about you so you have to save the receipt. If you have the receipt they still have the same old policy, they may just try to intimidate you a little bit. All you need is the receipt and the magic words "I was not entirely satisfied with this product," and you've got some bucks! But seriously, this policy is a great business move on their part because everyone considers this when you make a big purchase. "Do I order something online for a competitive price, or do I pay full retail plus tax at REI knowing that I can bring whatever it is back?" Don't feel guilty about doing it because they've probably built these losses into their business model already. REI, return everything indefinately!!!!!!!!

The other day I saw they had backpacker's chopsticks for only $20 US per pair. They come in a nice outdoorsy carrying case and they unscrew in the middle to maximize space efficiency. I used mine which was fairly big this year to contribute to a Suunto Vector Altimeter watch. They're great because when you go to a party you can figure out how high you are!

My browsers delete cookies daily, and I work on different computers all the time. When checking what's up I don't always bother to "register." I'm sure most people are unaware of whether they are logged in or not, who cares?

Has anyone used the expensive mapping software that is compatible with the more expensive Etrex series like the Legend or the Vista? It looks like you can only upload maps from their particular set of cd's, called Mapsource. I've been using the TOPO! series for a while now, but it looks like their stuff won't allow you to upload the map to your etrex. I just noticed that there is a $50 rebate from Garmin going on right now if you buy the software and either the Legend or the Vista at the same time. http://www.gpsnow.com cheap prices!

Make sure to read the "follow-up" story link. The day after. Pretty funny shit!