chelle

Unfortunately nope. I went and hurt myself two weeks before the trip. I spent some lovely days hiking and sunning sans shirt, but no pics. Sorry Dru.

What's the I-5 situation going to be thursday night? There was mention on the news of closing several lanes tonight and possibly off and on all week for repairs on the overpass due to the fire.

Is this the 5.10 route just to the left of the 5.9 crack that starts out with a little undercling boulder problem? Kind of in the middle of the wall? If so, Paco climbed it on top rope about 6 weeks ago.

Got off route on the descent down the backside of DAFF dome in Toloumne last year. Ended up rapping off several threads through small water holes in the granite that other people had used. Some of them were through pieces of granite that are smaller in diameter than my pinky finger and I have small hands. Backed them up for my heavier partern to descend, then I rapped off the threads that were in place. SCARY was the word!!!

Did your guy lines break? Or was it not staked down?

A view of the Olympic range. Mt. Constance is most prominent. Used to look at Liberty Ridge and the Willis Wall on Rainier, or just I-5 when the clouds were out.

My parents think it's pretty cool and put up pics I send to them in frames in the living room. Took Dad on a tour of the crags last year when I was in Yos. He loved it. They actually think it's safer for me to be out rock climbing than slogging up some volcano or peak at altitude. I guess both have risks but I'm more sketched about rock climbing sometimes.

In general I think living life without worrying about what others think is a good idea. But the reality is we do need friends and family in our lives to support us when the chips are down and help us deal with the shit life throws around. The flipside is they need us too. We're social creatures and like someone else said the rituals we have serve a purpose for the group, not necessarily the individuals. Trask if you truly don't need anybody in your life, I'm sorry for you. You're missing out... Or you're one of those exceptions that leads a solitary life and enjoys it.

The North Face bag is sold. One of the comforters and feather bed are on hold. Still available: King size down comforter. $75 Perfect for two people sleeping in a queen size bed. Cuts down the cover stealing. Western Mountaineering -20 deg. dryloft bag. $400 Has kept me very warm on some great high peaks.

In the campground near the Leisure Center according to one of Shannon's posts.

I gots an idea! How bout you'all get 20 of your friends together and take turns beating the crap outta each other? That would make it all feel so much better! Maybe they should just rent Fight Club and start a local chapter so you can beat the shit out of eachother and feel like men again. There is no justification for violence in my opinion. You cannot predict other people's behavior and it is sad that some people have to resort to violence to feel in control of something. I learned that lesson 13 years ago when I yelled at my ex for taking on an idiot who wanted to start a road rage incident in SF. I got punched in the face by the idiot and got my nose broken. No one wins in the end. Best to lay low and avoid this sort of situation in the first place. You'd think that 3 people camping in a public campground would be safe, but unfortunately this incident is a wake up call that safety is an illusion. I'll think twice about camping at that place alone and sleeping in an unlocked truck. This topic is boring...all the bravado is BS...

The beta and picture of the route in Becky's book is right on. Not sure what the condition of the route is at the moment. Did the chimneys last year in late July. They are solid exposed low 5th class moves with some 3rd and 4th class mixed in. No pro. The bivy Scott suggested is a nice spot, but carrying bivy gear up to that spot seems unnecessary this time of year. The hiking up to that point from Lake Ann will only take about 40 minutes without gear and not getting bogged down in the boulder field.

Howe Sound brewery was stuck in the 80's all weekend. Had enough of that bad music era to last a good long time.

Okay now that I got your attention... I can no longer sleep with any of my nice cozy down products. So here's what has to go: 30/40 degree North Face sleeping bag, great condition. - $50 obo (Standard length) -20 degree Western Mountaineering bag with dryloft. Excellent condition 5' 6" length paid $575, $400 firm 2 winter weight King size down comforters, excellent condition, $75 each Queen size feather bed (about 4 in loft when fluffed), great condition. $75 obo Buyer pays shipping. I'm headed to Squamish for the weekend so will respond to any pm's next week.

Don't know how much snow is still on the Sitkum approach. The camp is just below 6000' I think. So I'd cache them in your tent at camp. You may not need boots until after camp.

Getting to Squish while they expand the road to 4 lanes will be impossible. Better get some good days in this summer...

So what time is this shin dig getting going tonight?

Just pack up and go dru. The hardest part is getting out the door. After that it's just one foot in front of the other, so to speak.

RuMR - any 5.10s in that Imelda Marcos shrine? My feet are that size.

Only done the 5.9 variation on Nutcracker. I hear the 5.7 start is harder than the 5.9, but don't know since I haven't done it...

Market Street in Ballard, north side, somewhere between 15th and 17th. I think.

Just got back on Sat. Here's my TR: Had an awesome trip. Some things to keep in mind this time of year. The mosquitoes have mutated so that no form or amount of Deet keeps them at bay. Camp 4 in the valley is pretty empty (of climbers that is) at the moment. Lots of families and people who didn't have a campsite reservation are there. Crying kids and people who don't really get the dirt bag poaching thing. Some people in my site were pretty bitchy about the fact that there was a bunch of food stored in a bear box that they thought was "theirs" and we didn't know whose it was. I think they seriously considered tossing it out until we clued them in. TLG - Go check out the Valley, get inspired. To get used to the rock and cracks on some of the crag stuff at Church Bowl (CB Layback and Bishop's Terrace - one of my favorite 5.8 cracks and a good guage about whether you can lead Yos 5.8). Climb Munginella and Commitment at the Open Books (you must wear a helmet here! Very loose rock above and a potential death/serious injury zone if you don't.) Get on Royal Arches and think about skipping the last pitch and rapping the route to avoid the hike down North Dome Gully. Or do the pitch and have an adventure descent. Whatever you're into that day. Snake Dike is fun, but it is way to f'in hot to do that thing this time of year. If you're feeling like you want to climb polished granite go enjoy the crowds at the 5.9 classics Nutcracker and Jam Crack. If you're into wide cracks and chimneys check out Braile Book. Remember that even though it is rated 5.8 it is way old skool. Hit the Meadows to boulder and at least check out West Crack on Daff Dome. Some of everything and only the first few moves are 5.9. Good pro and some funky moves to pull the roof on the second pitch. The slab climbs on Stately Pleasure Dome are good if you're into that sort of thing. Some of the bolt are pretty spaced out. Cathedral Peak is certianly worth the 1.5 hour hike to get to the base. Unless your partner will rope gun you the majority of the Regular Route on Fairview, I'd skip it. Didn't think the climb was THAT great and a lot of the pro seemed run out or tricky to me and I wasn't leading it. Then my recommendation would be to spend the rest of your trip hanging out at Lover's Leap. Awesome free camping and some of the best moderate granite crack and face climbing in CA. You will likely feel a lot better (aka find inspiration) to wind out the trip there and hone your lead skills than flailing on sandbagged cracks in the Valley. My 2 cents.

I'll put in a vote for the Old Peculiar. Good food, drinks, easy parking, and pool for those who are inclined.

A counterpoint on Nunatak service and quality! I ordered some booties from him back in 2000 and he had them to me before they were due to arrive. I thought he was a great guy and did a great job with customer service. The booties are awesome, have been on many trips and are still serving me well.

I guess the questions are: are you looking to lead or follow, crag or do multipitch and at what level? That'll narrow it down a bit so we can give suggestions.