chelle

Nope, just asking, and that was a good reply, thats the price you pay, yup I don't want to turn this into a relationship thread, but... In my experience couples who bicker when they climb together probably bicker when they are off the rock too. Probably has nothing to do with whether they are climbers or not. Find someone you respect and enjoy spending time with, and if your style is to bicker try not to subject others to your warped sense of partnership.

Climb on the apron in the early am and you'll be in the shade if you keep moving. Enjoy the early summer weekend! Hey Fern you back from the road?

Could be crowded, could be empty. I've seen both situations on the 4th of July. The weather here is going to be pretty good here at home, so my guess is it won't be any worse than any other weekend.

That press release cracked me up. That was one hell of a marketing stunt to prove product superiority. At least they are helping out with rescues lower down on the mountain.

As for climbs... I haven't done Diedre, but Calculus Crack is one of my favorite multi pitch climbs and if you like wide cracks give Vector a go. There is also Rock On and all the stuff in the Bluffs for one pitch fun, both cracks and face climbs. Have a blast.

Are you still able to park a vehicle on 99 by the upper malamute? The campground at the leisure center on Loggers Lane is CD$16/night. I think it is nice, because there is grass and tables, and most times the chemical toilets are better than the pit ones at the chief. We usually split the fee between 6 people so it is still cheap. It's pretty much a grassy loop with every 20 feet or so a "site". You used to be able to drive a ways up the road next to the Apron parking lot and find a free spot to sleep, but with all the construction I understand that this is pretty much guaranteed to either result in no sleep or a very early morning wake up call because of the truck traffic.

send Terminal Gravity a pm. I'm sure he has some recommendations. Or stop by his brewery on the way.

How much you willing to spend?

I have some standard julbo glacier glasses. Also have some Charlet Moser Pulsars, about 3 years old. Used about 7-8 times. Great condition. Make me an offer via pm.

C'mon guys let's keep the spray in spray.

May not have been any question in the climbing community, but I don't think that was the primary audience of the study. Perhaps some of the misguided state and national legislators will read this and think twice about charging climbers for rescues. How many hiker, boater, and hunter rescues receive as much coverage in the press as those sweeping shots of Hood or Rainier?

For training: endurance and cardiofitness. Key for me has been following the same advice that eveyone gives. Climb high, sleep low while aclimating. Stay hydrated and well fed. As for the Cipro, it is a good drug. Best thing to do is prevent any sort of digestive problem, not rely on a strong antibiotic. Make sure you (and whoever is making any food you put in your mouth on the climb) wash your hands with soap or use the alcohol-based gels. This will prevent you from infecting yourselves with your own GI bacteria. Also, if you eat in town get food that is served hot, and if you eat eggs make sure they are not runny. Use a good water treatment or drink bottled water in town. I pretty much ruined my chance of success on a climb of Aconcagua back in 2000 because I took Cipro to fight a kidney infection I got from sitting too long on a plane from Tokyo and getting dehydrated a week before I left on the trip. Anyways, the Cipro did it's job by killing the bacteria that infected my kidneys, but it also killed a lot of the bacteria I needed in my gut to properly digest my food. I took my last dose hiking into base camp. My body did not have enough time to recover and I stopped digesting food a day after getting to base camp. No runs or GI infection, but no nutrients getting to my cells. Kinda gross, but what went into my mouth pretty much came out the other end in the same state. I lost 15 pounds in a few days and my trip ended at 18000. Take Cipro if you need it, only if you get a bad case of the runs that last more than a couple days. If you do get the runs, make sure you replinish your fluids with an electrolyte replacement drink. Your immune system is probably equiped to wipe anything out in a couple days. Sometimes people just get a little bout of GI upset from the travel and eating on a different schedule. Popping antibiotics at the first sign of gurgling is probably unnecessary. But, you may want to take a probiotic supplement with you to replenish your GI flora in case you need to take Cipro on the trip. Bartell Drug sells a product called Culturelle that does not need refridgeration. Most importantly, have a great trip and climb safe. And file a TR when you get home.

She might have compressed the nerves that run across the top of the foot. Happened to me about 5 years ago climbing Mt. Shasta in crappy rental mountaineering boots. My toes were numb for about 3 months, but it came back. I saw a podiatrist (he was also a climber) and he said that women have this problem if they have high arches because a lot of boots don't have enough arch support and compress the foot downward, pressing on the top of the foot. I invested in a good fitting pair of boots and orthotics, and I don't have that problem when on glacier climbs anymore. My toes still sometimes gives me trouble though when I rock climb too much in super tight shoes, especially longer multipitch days. I get numb toes and then shooting pains in them for a few days as they return to normal. Climbing is tough on the feet IMO.

I have to work that night. Maybe next time... Drink a beer for me.

True, true, Chuck. But I also think that experienced parties who don't want to wait in line on a popular route that some view as a test piece, should not plan to head out on a weekend and cruise the route unless they plan to get there first. Or if they are so good, they could just plan to go in the late afternoon and cruise up when everyone else is almost topping out. I have some friends who had a bunch of people tell them they were stupid for racking up to hop on Zebra Zion late in the afternoon. These two guys said, "whatever" and proceeded to simulclimb the whole thing in less than a half hour and had plenty of time to walk off the top in daylight. I hope the critical people on the ground felt a little foolish.

One thing to keep in mind about glacier climbing is keeping her feet warm. Wet, cold feet will not make for a good experience. If her current boots have a gore-tex liner or some other waterproof breathable, they might work fine. La Sortiva is a good recommendation for small narrow feet. I have a funky set of feet to fit into boots-- small, high volume, and wide. PMS fit me up with a great pair of mountaineering boots. Send her there if she is commited to climbing and wants to get a pair of stiffer boots than her current hikers.

I think it is kinda funny how some folks are most upset about the pulling on gear and are using that action as the evidence that the group did not belong on the route. I will likely get slammed for this but... Who the F^CK cares if they pulled on gear! It may have actually sped things up and allowed the parties behind to climb sooner. Just because a route has gone free, even the majority of the time, does not mean that someone should not come along and feel free to pull on a piece of gear if they need to. But then maybe the people being critical have never uttered or thought... "It's an alpine route so anything goes. It's all about getting to the top safely and getting down before dark." If the party in question had brought aiders with the intent to aid climb it that might be objectionable. But they didn't. Outerspace is an alpine multipitch climb. Sometimes people might find the need to pull on a piece in order to get into the right stance or to the next hold. Why? Because he's tired, or he's feeling rushed by the parties behind, or because that piece of gear is placed in the spot where his hand would fit. So what! Get over it. No two people will climb a route in the same way. There are way too many variables like height and hand size, or comfort with cracks vs. face moves. Worry about your own style and stop being so critical of other people.

This site is worth a laugh or three!

I didn't read the book, so I wouldn't know what they changed. But you have to admit that this is a great quote (paraphrased). "Love, we don't care about love. We want to be famous! Take his brain!"

If you are going to use your rope and you tie into your harness with a Fig8 follow through make sure you have a long tail and back up the know with a fishermans. A Fig 8 follow through if loaded in the wrong direction can invert itself and fail if there is not a long enough tail/back-up, particularly when people thread the tail back through the knot to keep it out of the way... My understanding about alpine bod harnesses is that the tie in point doubles as a belay loop, so there really isn't a need to belay through the rope anyways.

was a great movie.

Who cares if we have the whole story. I think it is pretty funny that you guys are starting to sound like Miss Manners on whether she can keep the ring. I wonder why would she even want the ring? Does she plan to chuck it into the ocean so the guy gets hit in the wallet? or is she going to look at it periodically and recall the same crappy memories all over again?

Hey nothing, are you still looking to sell your car and what are you looking for in a truck? What's the gas mileage? pm me. I might be interested in a vehicle trade + a little cash.

Hooray!!! Despite what is sometimes said about this place...cc.com totally What a great accomplishment for the WCC too!