imorris

And duct tape the vents shut so you don't have to listen to that stupid whistling all morning.

I new some people had it down to a science. Thanks for the input. I've done the hood river thing many times and on the way out after 4:00pm it's the only way to go (or hang out at meadows until late). I like the morning light on the N side of hood on the way in, too. What are those favorite beer and coffee stops? I've spent some time at Eliot Glacier pub after ice climbing a few times, but it's in Parkdale. Not bad, but not on the highway.

This is a stupid topic, but after many trips out to Hood, I still don't know a non-annoying way to get out to T-Line from PDX. Anyone have the best route out there from 84, or any shortcuts?

amen brother. Oh wait I've never been to pub club.

quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: 1. Here's a thought: avoid Burnside during rush hour. Tough to do if you live in NE and commute to L. Oswego. There are other reasons to avoid Burnside besides traffic. But I won't let the thread creep.

I'm not so keen on the lightweight "bike style" helmets. The concept is for destruction on impact to absorb the force, and frequently when one rock hits your head, there's more coming. In bike accidents, you tend to quit for the day or head to the hospital after you kiss the bumper of that *#&$# 4.7L Range Rover on Burnside driven by the f'ing soccer mom on the cellphone trying to organize a dinner party as you're trying to get to work, so you can generally expect only a single impact. Hence the lightweight styrofoam style. I think the ubiquitous Ecrin does a good job of locking down on your head, and it can take a beating.

I'm sure you could learn a few things about mountaineering via RMI, and the one individual I know who guides for them is a quality mountaineer. My concern are quotes such as the following from Lou Whittaker, in response to the avalanche incident back in '98: "There has been that question, 'aren't they coming down late?' You're not coming down late on the mountain when you climb every day on the mountain; you do go up and down it at any time of the day. So, that is something I can clear up as well."

You made a good decision to get back out there. I felt very tentative after a similar accident and found it important to get a positive experience in the mountains as soon as possible to dull the negative emotions. Sometimes bad stuff happens. You accept that with climbing and perhaps, it is the appeal of climbing to many. I've made many climbs since the above accident. However the event is still in my mind and I believe I am a stronger, safer climber for it. I'm glad to see that you are okay and have done the analysis to get something positive out of your incident.

FYI if you use a pen to do this: If I recall, an old-fashioned sharpie is considered safe for marking middles, so dispense with the special pens. Another vote for bi-weave ropes. A directional weave would be a nice little luxury too for complicated pulley systems. If you use tape, I've had some luck with reflective stuff so you can find the ends and middle quickly on the alpine start. It wears off faster though, and gives the usual "tape jolt" when lowering through ATC, etc. [ 03-11-2002: Message edited by: imorris ]

We use double bowlines w/really long (10ft) tails to attach our litter to the haul and belay lines in our raising and lowering system. The tails are used as tie-ins w/ 8's for the patient and litter attendant (the litter spider includes a tie-in as well, so the bowline tail is occasionally not used). The double-bowline was chosen due to it's ease of untying after a rescue load. It does require practice, but is not terribly difficult to tie or observe as incorrectly tied if dressed reasonably. Tied incorrectly, and it loses a considerable amount of strength. That said, I still use a fig. 8 on bight for my tie-in since it's so fast and obvious. I might get flamed for this, but I rarely tie in through the harness, but clip in for the flexibility of escape from systems, etc. -Iain

quote: Originally posted by CraigA: Is it possible to descend the Sunshine route instead of the South Side or Cooper Spur? Craig yes.

I still head up the S. Side occasionally though I have been regularly climbing harder routes on the mountain. I like the fact that I can decide on the commute home over Terwilliger Blvd, to go run up there by myself, ski down, and be back by tmr a.m, even go to work, even when considerable avalanche conditions close most other routes. That's cool, and one of the reasons I like PDX. Fun to be asked what you did last night at work the next day, and say "well I just skied 5000 hard-earned vertical this morning...what did you do?"

quote: Originally posted by Billy: the chute was about as steep as a blue run at Timberline. The road through G'mnt Camp would be a blue run at Timberline. The runaway truck ramp on 26? Double-black.

If it is like most years, you have at least a 3 mile ski into Pole Cr. TH right now. There's that dip in the road at a fork that takes forever to melt enough to drive through (at least for me to drive through). If you are interested in the couloir, let me know if you'd another along. I've been meaning to get up there. -Iain

Nice picture. I bet that rime ice provides better holds than the rock on the upcoming pitch in that picture. I assume that's approaching the NE gully to the rappel block. Choss.

Not sure what your experiences have been, but I'd be careful on the west side Mt. Washington routes if there are climbers above. May be the east side routes are the same. When there are parties on the N. Ridge, or other routes above, it can obviously be quite dangerous below. Rockfall seems to channel over you when climbing the west face on Mt. Washington. Best to do it on weekdays, in my opinion, but that's just in summer.

er, besides Jeff I guess. How was that climb, and how much time did you give yourselves for the climb? I've been wanting to do Jefferson in winter, perhaps via milk creek.

We were eyeing the S.E. couloir on TFJ. Has anyone here climbed this, and what is it like. (Obviously we want cold conditions and good coverage). And what are you climbing these days R.P.?

Bob Costas was right on. The course at Snowbasin is an overhanging 95 degrees. Only FanMan w/parachute and fan can stay on snow and make run safely. All others will perish. Did you see when they slowed down a turn in the mens downhill, where the ski was wobbling like Jello? Insanity. Oh and the chute? mid to high 30's.

I think I saw at least two flakes in PDX today. Our single snowplow is taking appropriate measures to melt them.

You can keep things from icing up (randonee binding heel pieces, for example) by spraying them with Pledge. It's got some wax in it.

Glissading must have sucked. I was skiing that stuff, teeth chattering. Frickin' 3D ice marbles.

quote: Originally posted by goatboy: Another good one is to put beer into one of the small streams crossing the snow creek trail as you hike up to the wall, then get your beers on the way out, ice cold!!! So good. I've left 6 packs scattered around the OR cascades doing that. Somehow I just forget about them. Seems impossible, since it's beer, after all.

quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: ClubSport, near Portland, has no scene. Unfortunatly, not many climbing women either. Its not even a real climbing gym. Why the fuck do I go there!? Because you like having your wallet ass-raped.

The Mountain Shop had no problem replacing my defective Ascension skins when the glue started peeling off and I didn't have to press them for a replacement pair while mine were sent in for warranty. The proactively called me to offer me a new pair. Way cool. They've got my business (partially because I live a few blocks away). Funny, there is ALWAYS someone in there buying some full space-age telemark package at full retail in there every time I go though. Some people are loaded.