imorris

This is FRESHIEZ: FRESHIEZ has spoken. Only a matter of time before the big waller chimes in with his usual diatribe.

freshiez.

The amount of planet underneath you (geoid undulation) is often computed using gravity observations. When you compare that to your current elevation relative to the theoretical ellipsoid (GPS elevation, usually referenced using the WGS84 ellipsoid these days) you can get a separation value. When you tack that on to your ellipsoidal height, then account for amount of snow, etc. You get a geoidal height which I believe is considered the definitive elevation. This can be backed up using terrestrial data such as photogrammetry, trigonometric networks, and meteorological data. Totally irrelevant to climbing, but still an interesting subject.

It's generally good bed-side manner to call your rescue subject "the patient" rather than "the victim" unless they are clearly dead.

quote: Originally posted by airmoss: imorris, thanks. Did you climb the Reid from Timberline, or camp at the saddle? I started from Timberline @1:00am and ran into a friend of mine bivying at the saddle, so we climbed together. The saddle sucks for camping. I've spent multiple miserable nights there and never find it worthwhile. My two cents on I. Saddle.

I heartily agree. In a party of two, it is common sense to have enough line to set up a fresh rope down to the subject. This means having more than a 3rd of the rope on you in coils to account for stretch. You will be happy w/ the extra line, particularly if you are setting up an even mech. ad. system where a pulley is dropped down to the patient (Canadian Drop-Loop style). For me, it the extra weight is more than acceptable, and your rappel/bail options are increased as well.

I would say Reid HW is a step up from Leuthold, but still quite moderate. Climbed the left-most gully system on RHW Fri/Sat. It is definitely steeper in sections and involves minor routefinding. That said, we were more than comfortable simul-soloing the route. Much of the time a fall would most likely be fatal, but axe plants and footwork were totally solid. A 2nd tool is not necessary, but we were able to really cruise with 2. I found it much nicer than my trips to Leuthold, though there was still a good deal of crap raining down on us. Recommended and worthwhile in the right conditions.

Whoops, should've actually read all of the responses carefully. Yep, Cotopaxi: highest active. Chimborazo: also a volcano, but dormant. I'll shut up now.

If you consider the equatorial bulge of the planet due to rotation, Chimborazo is technically the highest mountain on the planet from core to surface. In fact, at the summit of Chimborazo, you are spinning faster than anyone on the planet! Maybe that's why Cotopaxi is considered the highest volcano. Just a guess though.

ditto. that's disturbing.

ditto. that's disturbing.

I do wear Nepal Extremes, but I don't remember talking to anybody about them on top. I think we were the first west side climbers on top and left before anyone else showed up from the chair.

quote: Originally posted by Fairweather: and one successful party on Reid Headwall too. That was us! I think we saw you top out of the couloir. We were the two dots up near the summit ridge. I was going to solo the RHW but unbelievably ran into a friend of my at I. Saddle, asleep in the snow. We simul-soloed the route, which I have to say, is well worthwhile if you have not climbed it before. Much more interesting that Leuthold in my opinion. We too, were bruised and bloody coming out the gullies. I wonder if you found the descent down to the Reid from the saddle as unusually difficult as we did. -Iain

quote: Originally posted by Fairweather: and one successful party on Reid Headwall too. That was us! I think we saw you top out of the couloir. We were the two dots up near the summit ridge. I was going to solo the RHW but unbelievably ran into a friend of my at I. Saddle, asleep in the snow. We simul-soloed the route, which I have to say, is well worthwhile if you have not climbed it before. Much more interesting that Leuthold in my opinion. We too, were bruised and bloody coming out the gullies. I wonder if you found the descent down to the Reid from the saddle as unusually difficult as we did. -Iain

Got a good look at Yocum R. doing the Reid HW (leftmost gully system) the other day. Much rock on lower ridge exposed now (obviously w/ the sun). You guys on the Yoc. route surely must have encountered a good bit of choss, or were about to before you bailed. P.S. I think I spotted where your pickets are. Reid HW gullies are in good shape (weather moving in tmr though)

That picture rocks. I've wanted to climb the route just to get my own version! To bad you seem to have a 50:50 chance statistically of dying when climbing with Wick.

I have never used the cat, but I think the requirement was an MLU, not a beacon. If you can afford a day of skiing, you could buy a lift ticket and take the last Palmer cat ride to the top of the lift (around 3:00pm I think). Not the most convenient time, but saves the slog.

I have never used the cat, but I think the requirement was an MLU, not a beacon. If you can afford a day of skiing, you could buy a lift ticket and take the last Palmer cat ride to the top of the lift (around 3:00pm I think). Not the most convenient time, but saves the slog.

Oh and come to think of it, 2 more pickets on the upper part of Devils Kitchen HW. Those actually would be pretty easy to get at, but later this year. Man there's a lot of litter up there.

That sounds worth it. While you're up there you can pick up another two pickets out of the sandy g. schrund.

Indeed, he sees more spraytime than a bottle of Windex.

If that was the most recent accident on Washington, Accidents in NA Mtning confirms the american triangle was used in that belay.

quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: He was on here just a second ago, then he was gone again. Must have jumped online while his parole officer had her back turned.