terrible_ted

This ones pretty easy: If I think I'm going to fall, then definitely rope up. If I think my partner(s) going to fall, then definitely don't rope up. Of course, I like having climbing partners that weigh a lot more than me. Then I have an excuse for not pulling them up...

Don't you mean take it easy WITH KYjelly...?

Pretty doubtful KY&*(%*^$whatever: Go find a map and route description. One way takes a boat ride, the other way is 21 miles from TH to summit. I guess that makes, oh, 42 miles round trip. Most trail joggers don't like vertical brushwhacks, and there is a bit of that getting to the lake below X-tree col. (Banded approach) Sound like a fun day. I'd rather use a bench grinder to mutilate my feet, personally. I suppose it would be good training for a one-day climb of Challenger -t [This message has been edited by terrible ted (edited 09-04-2001).]

Can I trust at some point we can have a more artistically inclined member of the community paint a picture of the story...???

Give me your money and I'll help you see the light.

Rearranging terms we have: Ruth + snow = glacier = Eldorado Pyramid = snowfieldglacier - snow^2field As for Sahale, plenty of folks chicken out on the final scramble. <insert chicken graphic here> But I agree, you ought to be able to short rope your greatgrandma up to the ridge... probably easier if you wax the coffin first. I wouldn't take weaklings up Daniel that late - doesn't that require a boat? You might as well do Clark heh heh heh... Snowfield should go, but definitely a grunt. You'd do a lot of end-running, but the glacier is low angle, so ice won't scare anyone too much. Silver Star is a day trip. Views are pretty nice from Ruth, but it's hard to call it a glacier... -t

Sahale may go Sloan may go Oops, looks like Capn Kangaroo beat me to it... [This message has been edited by terrible ted (edited 08-16-2001).]

Allright, I read the Menacal article, and it pretty much jibes with the story I got from the other frustrated participant. The person I spoke with, however, seemed more pissed at Silver. However, my point is still left standing. I'm grateful for WW's work in opposing the fee demo project and irritated by their opposition to 'fixed' anchors. I don't want to write another thesis, however. Peace all. And remember BC bud is just a Northern Lights hybrid... Widmer Alt uber alles. -t

Sorry Mountain Doodoo: I haven't seen the mountainbomb article, although I'll go look around for it, I got my info from another member of the now-defunct negotiating committee. If you were actually there, I might be inclined to believe there's more to the story. But as it stands, the download I got was that WW's (however you want to unparse it...) unwillingness to move in negotiations led to the dissolution of the committee. If you want to call that 'forced off' then you can, although when everyone except the FS is 'forced off' I'd consider it something a bit different. Certainly easy enough to spark folks up, though... -t

If people worried about basing their theses on facts rather than opinions then precious few would be written. I think the fixed anchor ban has a more interesting hook: the schism between the climbing community and the more militant members of the forest/hiking community. There are a lot of ways to frame the issues, and your ability to do so coherently, and then defend it against alternative viewings is the basis of a thesis experience. I suspect a few folks around here have an opinion on the subject... Here's an example: Scott Silver, who may be lauded by some for Wilderness Watches work against the Fee Demo project was also largely responsible for the breakdown in talks between the FS and climbers in the negotiations on the fixed anchor ban. Wilderness Watch would not accept the presence of anything (rapp slings, bolts, candy wrappers...) being left in the wilderness. The breakdown in negotiations means that it's all in the FS hands, which ought to make a climber nervous. So is Wilderness Watch with us, or against us? Depends on your point of view. I have mine. Now quit screwing around on the web and get to work!

Hi: No climbing times, let's just say it was a slow group... We were taking the Neve approach. Even the Colonial glacier is a bit broken up, but eminently passable. The Neve glacier is getting pretty broken, but it should be doable for at least a couple more weeks. There's a few bivy spots at the Colonial/Neve col - a bit exposed, but spectacular views. The Nelson/Potterfield notes on getting from the ridge to the summit are good, and worked quite well for us. Two notes to add: 1. Don't get suckered into going too far up the west ridge trail, because you'll need to traverse before that and 2. it will look like the low-angle rock ramp is finished after 30' or so. Keep going straight on up over blocky stuff for another 10', and then make the traverse to the right. The nicest Cascade panorama I've ever seen. The southern Pickets looked glorious! Bugs were FEROCIOUS below 6000.' Oh yeah, saw a few meteors from the Perseids shower, although only one real good streamer... -t [This message has been edited by terrible ted (edited 08-13-2001).]

Last month - two fighting squirrels fell out of the tree I was hiking past. They rolled around on the ground in front of me scuffling, then one of them bolted off, right up my leg! He stopped about halfway up my thigh, just long enough for me to whack him with a trekking pole. So failed the first squirrel summit attempt of Mt Ted... -t

Fantastic trip AK! I'm jealous. Just for my own curiosity, how were the bugs? I was chewed up by biting flies all weekend just south of you. -t

I was up the second week of July. Decent flow at the stream E of the camping flats, but probably dry by now. You'll be able to get water from the snowfields past the col, in fact, there should be a good flow of water high on the rockband just east of the glacier. We found what looked like aviation wreckage at the foot of the SS glacier (fiberglass paneling, window grommet, other detritus). Anyone know any details behind that? -t

Ahem!! It's the one south of Lake Diablo, north of Eldorado... You may have looked at it on the way to Colonial, Pyramid or Pinnacle? Ring a bell? -t

Holy smokes Holly! I didn't realize that was you! Last I saw you was with Joe and Chris on the Emmons route back in '98. As shy and retiring as ever, I see... -t

MSR is probably the most useful piece of climbing gear that REI has sold in years... I always like the part of their corporate mythos that goes: "It all started with an ice axe..." You ever count how many different ice axes they sell now? Last I was in the hikeytown cathedral, it was two. Now I think they're up to three. (Axes, not tools) That same trip, they had no Arc'Teryx Khamsin packs, and no point protectors for crampons ("Uh, it says we have three in inventory, but I think they used them in the window displays.") I was so happy to give Jim my money for the same items. I always look to ProMountain and Cascade Crags first, and mail order (Barrabees ROCKS!!!) second. Great place to take the elderly relatives clothes shopping for the holidays, however.. -t

Hi: Has anyone been up Snowfield peak lately? Any beta on the condition of the Neve glacier? -t

Besides, it's too damn difficult trying to stick two pins in the same spot on the wall map...

Sorry, duplicate posting [This message has been edited by terrible ted (edited 08-06-2001).]

Hi: Given that the 17 and 23cm USHBA titanium screws with drivers run about $10 cheaper than corresponding BD Express screws, why would I carry the extra weight of the BD's? I can understand the value of the shorter BD screws to avoid tie-offs, but it just seems a bit weird to be able to get both light weight and (relative) affordability at the same time. I don't give a rat's ass about the 'other' titanium ice screws out there with the acknowledged QC problems they have; USHBA is the only titanium gear provider I know of with a decent reputation. -t

I have an 8.6mm X 50M 'double dry' (what a load of shit!) rope by Bluewater (Cascade Crags) It stays as dry as any of the 'dry' ropes. It's more versatile than the shorter and skinnier ropes. The trade-off is the extra 13M costs some weight. 15 - 20M spacing is nice, 10M spacing gets a bit tight... (3 on a 30 - 37M). You might want to think about your glacier travel objectives for the future. If you anticipate getting out on the biggens regularly, you might find the skinny short rope doesn't meet your needs all of the time. An 8.x X 50M will pretty much cover you for everything you might do on a glacier... well, almost everything I actually carry 100' of 6mm accessory cord for snow scrambling. Very light, and adequate for handlines, short rapps and easy runouts. You'd hate to take a dyno load on it - it might pop the teeth out of your gums! -t

Hi Mark: You might want to consider a pain clinic. They often are more oriented to deal with this sort of malady. Sorry I can't provide any local contacts, although a family member of mine had good luck with a clinic in Portland. -t

Eerie, I was going to post this morning asking about Barrabes... Anyways, I still want to hear - are the posted prices what you pay (in the US)? Is there any tariffs/fees that get tacked on? Did you order via the web or e-mail - any hassles? Thanks, -t

Actually, it's "Brewskies" although I can understand the desire to save a little weight on vowels... Unless, of course, "Bruskies" is some brand of ready-mix concrete - in which case, my apologies. -t